With the old style Jap tissue that is long gone now I used to use dope but the new stuff you can get from Peck Polymer is too crinkly for good working with dope. For a while I used to lightly mist the tissue to dampen
the crinkly feel and use dope for adherring and that works great but it also shrinks more and puts a lot more strain on the structure. Now I use glue stick to glue the tissue directly to the framing. Wait for at least 4 hours for the glue stick to dry and then LIGHTLY mist with water. The barest minimum is fine and if you use to much you risk softening the glue stick and having the tissue lift. A super fine hair mister used to spay the model part held about 18 inches away will ensure that only the fine mist reaches the tissue and the heavy drops fall to the floor.
If you use art store tissue then you're stuck with dry covering with the glue stick. The art store stuff falls apart when wet like toilet paper. You CAN use dope to stick dry tissue down but it's a thouroughly frustrating experience with the paper lifting up right to the last second before the dope dries. Go with the glue stick, it's a lot easier if you can't dampen the tissue or you want to go dry regardless.
If you do get the Peck tissue and use it dampened and with dope to hold it on then remember to keep the parts already covered damp until both sides are covered or the tissue will shrink a warp into the surface.
After you have a coat or two of clear on the tissue you can use colored tissue and thinner to stick the trim on. So light base colors and darker trim is the way to go. A light mist on the tissue before you stick it down with the thinner will make it lay better.
Silk sutable for model covering is hard to get these days. The stuff you get at the fabric stores is much to heavy. The model stuff looks like veil material but is even lighter than that. The GOOD tissue is available from a few free flight online stores like Al Lidberg's, FAI model supply and Peck Polymer. The art store stuff is available everywhere and works decent enough.
Nitrate is fine for electrics or other non glow applications and butyrate is what you want for glow. I've found that if you stick to less than 30% nitro and don't make a habit of spraying on the model then the finish can last for years. However around the nose the fuel will eventually get in through the pores or whatever in the dope and the wood becomes oil soaked. Nothing you can do about it. The same happens with Monokoted models around the nose as well.