Cabane

My Feedback: (2)

Both of them have a knock or hard spot when you turn it over. . Too tight at TDC and/or con rod issues? .... maybe, dunno. I can't keep the prop screw from coming out when trying to start. I had one chunk the prop in flight and one chunk it on the ground trying to adjust the needle. Be sure to wear safety glasses! I'm frustrated.

Mopzilla

Funny you mention it.. but my prop screw was coming lose all the darn time. I fixed that by not using a washer between the prop screw head and the conical piece. If the front and back of your prop are smooth (at the diameter of the hub), you may have problems with it slipping when you tighten. Mine is still pretty rough, and after a while I just grip the prop and tighten it down with the wrench like crazy. Also, try using some blue loctite if the above don't work.

Did you soak the engines in oil for a day and turn them over by hand 100+ times before use? I have not started my .061 yet, it was real tight at first but after flipping the prop manually about 150 times, it turns over far smoother, as long as it has oil in it. I did the same for my piston/liner replacement in the .074 and I can flip start it on a good day.

The knock when turning over is a result of the super-tight fit at TDC.

Cabane

My Feedback: (2)

The prop srew will not allow you to tighten the prop fasenting assembly. The slotted screw is bull. It needs a cap screw to get some serious umph on it. How many prop screws have you had to put a locking adhesive on?
During break in.. I read the instructions. I also applied prudent modeler break-in knowledge. These engines are tight. I more or less ran it in with a grease bath prior to any glo-fire. It's like they won't break in.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Hi CABANE, yep, these .074s are useless junk, I'll take them off your hands for $10 each because they make great lingcod lures.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

If you put grease in there, it's no wonder you're having trouble. Take them apart and degrease completely. Try running them without prelubing. Mine usually start running right after the second flight. Seems unloading is what they need. A little patience and you'll have two VERY nice engines. Be sure to have a spare plug on hand. Mine usually die shortly after breaking in, but the second plug last for a long time.

Mopzilla

You have to use the Norvel wrench to really tighten those suckers down. And I mean TIGHT.




Send em' to me, I could use the parts, I'll give you $10 PLUS shipping...

Cabane

My Feedback: (2)

Pigg... don't tempt me.

There's a Norvel wrench? What is that, and where do I get one.

I didn't use grease literally! geez.

Mopzilla

It's a metal wrench that no longer comes with engines [] you can buy it for about $2.50 from norvel or kittingittogether.com . It has a hex hole for the hex-sided prop screw on the .074. My props were always coming loose before I bought this wrench.

Bipe Flyer

The extreme tightness is normal with Norvels, and they take a while to break in, but when they do... What fuel and what size prop are you using?

Here's a link to the Norvel wrench. Use the hex part instead of the slot for tightening.
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro....259.447.0.0.0


I'll give you $15 each.

jessiej

Any hardware or auto supply store will have a socket or box end wrench to fit the prop screw. Probabaly won't help though, so I'll give you $11 each

jess

Bipe Flyer

Mopzilla,

Did the wrench ever come with the engines? I've been buying Norvels since 1998 (Wow, I have 12 of them now including the Kamdax!) and the only wrench I have is the one I bought separately.

jessiej

I think I have eight or so , .049s, .061s, and .074. I think two of them came with a wrench. Naturally I lost one of them right away.

jess

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I'll give you $12 each AND I'll throw in a QUEEN BEE .074.

Mopzilla

I think so. When I got into 1/2A in about 2001 or 2002 I bought a pre-owned r/c .061 bigmig pre-revlite and it came with a wrench. I ran the engine for about a tank on a bench but never flew a 1/2A plane until 2004. I later sold the engine and wrench.

The last two norvels I bought are revlites and did not come with wrenches.

Bipe Flyer

Hmm, a Queen Bee is too rich for my blood. How about 4oz of lead instead?

Dukester

My Feedback: (31)

$12????

I know for certain they are worth $14 each and would be glad to give you that to make sure you don't get hornswaggled by these other guys.

I don't have a QB to throw in either, but think of all the cursing I'm saving you by NOT having one....

Lol,
Duke

keepiru1

You guys are so mean to a poor guy with engine trouble! *LOL* I was going to offer him $10 each and a Mutunoc .61 w/Harry Higley's Book on 2-Stroke Engines *G*

BMatthews

All right guys. No bidding allowed outside of the Marketplace.






......... I'll give you $35 and a set of dull drills for the two of 'em.....

Seriously they are darn tight at first but persevere as the guys say and they should do well. With the metallurgy of these engines it is a mistake to try to run them too rich. Forget the old bit about the slobbering rich runs. Just needle 'em up to a clean but slightly rich run and keep the first dozen runs short, like a minute each, with about 5 or 7 mintues of cooling between them. And if you don't have the proper wrench I'm sure there's a metric box end wrench at the tool store that'll do the job.

Bipe Flyer

If you prefer to use a hex socket, you can get the Du-Bro spinner nut. It looks good and it works well with a 1/2A starter.

http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...d=DUB776/101.0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE198&P=7

keepiru1

That doesn't work with the .074, BP....I know....I already bought one and found out the hard way that one is for the049and 061 Norvel's ONLY....the 074 has a larger prop shaft

SST

My Feedback: (2)

I've got 6 .074s and have since gotten rid of every other .10-.15 size engine I own. I pull the head & back plate off a new engine and set it nose up in a shallow pan (just enough to submerge the cylinder) of Kendall GT-1 30 weight for a week or so, blow it out, mount it without the head and hit it with the starter. This brings out most of the remaining lube. Swab it out and replace the head & fire it up. But I do indeed replace the factory prop nut with a SHCS as soon as possible.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Cabane, some folks use a heat gun/blow dryer to preheat the engine to help with starting,,I'd go with BMatthews advice , running rich only cools the head and raises compression two things you dont want during breakin...run it for a minute and come back 10 minutes later and do it again,,but if you do a search, you'll find nothing but love for these engines,,I just did a thread on mine last week,,fires up, throttles up, quiet,,a masterpiece for the masses...I'd get in on the bidding but I have enough stuff right now including 2 norvels I love....Rog

MormonMike

My Feedback: (2)

Yup, my two were tight when new but after 5-6 ounces of fuel, they've turned out to be the best little engines I ever found for my glider's power pods. Now I have two .061's that are just too small for anything else I have. They are mounted as a pusher-puller together on a single power pod. Kinda novel. Seeya, MM

gcb

For those who do not have the Norvel wrench, what do you use to replace your glow plug?
If you look at the pic that Bipe Flyer posted, the flat end has a taper so you can use it as a screwdriver on the .049-.074, a spanner to tighten .049-.15 heads (older .15's), opposite the spanner is a raised part to prevent slipping when removing the backplate, the hex hole near the screwdriver fits the prop screw for .049-.074, the middle hex hole fits the prop nut on the .15, and the large hex hole fits the prop nut on the .25.
There is another wrench for the newer .15-.25's that have the six holes in the head.

George

Edit: A picture is worth...

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

George, for the glow plug, the cox wrench will work on the .049-061. I need to check my .074 though, cause I haven't needed to change the plug yet.