BMatthews

How about a really nice little Cox piston socket reseting tool and anvil? I did this up for some guys that were wondering how to make their own that I mentioned and thought you guys may like an extra project to justify the cost of all those fancy machining tools. I can send out a DXF file as well but PM me with your email addy for that.

g-rock

My Feedback: (1)

Bruce,
Thank you very much. I have been searching and can only find over priced three-bay stuff. I whish more like this were posted such as the 049/051 throttle. I am sure there are many of us 1/2A nuts that will not have a problem with projects like this. Again, many thanks.
Gene

Big Al-RCU

[ Hi Bruce, That's a neat tool, although I will admit it took me a minute or two to grasp the function of the plastic clamp. (Duh). After just doing a few of my latest 4.99 treasures, I should have picked up on it.
But a question? The (my) Cox anvil isn't flat on the bottom. I can't measure it direct (it's in the bottom of a well) but by eyeballing my caliper there is a 0.22 to 0.23 dia raised contact area. Would guess that is to support the piston directly under the socket and to help prevent warps? Any thoughts?
Thanks for sharing, I will make piston clamps for all (3) of my reset tools.
Al Lenz

vauxhall

Yeah, but if you don't have a lathe ( like me ), you just get a $2 set of Chinese hollow point punches from your local bagain store, and cut the slot in the side of the nose of one the appropriate diameter, then grind or file the sharp point flat and bell mouthed. Worked for me since last century. I used to use the lathe at work, but since retiring, I have to improvise. Nicely detailed drawing Bruce, I'll save that one.

BMatthews

I'm sure that raised spot is to support the middle of the crown just as you suspect. I just checked the two pistons I used to make the drawing from last night and the brand new one is slightly convex and the used one is slightly concave. Both have a very slight nib in the middle. On the concave one the nib is still higher than the edges. Probably nothing to worry about as I'm sure there's lots of us like Vauxhall that have used any handy flat area to back the pistons up. But I may just make my anvils with a slight pedistal in the center to be that little bit better.

Thanks for the info.

For the more imaginitive among us you'll already realize that all this can be done with basic hand tools and a little patience. The end center drill could be used with some careful center marking and an electric hand drill and the rod cut done with a hacksaw. Even the turning down of the 3/8 rod can be done with the rod in the drill and a file. Or for that matter totally by hand with a vise and a file. It won't be as pretty but it'll do the job and that's what counts.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Having been making these for a while Bruce (I still get guys regularly asking for them) in all sizes from .010 to .15. I used tomake the anvil from steel, with a relieved rim like the original cox ones, but now I just use aluminum for the anvil. Kustom Kraftsmanship's ones used aluminum with no relief. As long as the piston is sitting flat on a smooth surface you are fine.

I will even give you my secret to bluing the reset tool - I heat the parts with my oxy/acet torch untill a dull red and quench in motor oil, repeat. This gives a nice deep blue finish to the steel.

I also make the reset tool from hex stock ala the cox ones, round is harder to hold in the milling vise to cut the reliefe groove for the rod.

AJC

BMatthews

Two words for that.... collet chuck....

Actually the hex bit is a great idea. But I'd have to buy the stock while I've got some 3/8 drill rod stock looking for a function in life.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Ah yes, 5C collets and holder for the mill.... havent gotten around to buying that quite yet

AJC

gcb

Bruce,
I notice in your plans that the impact part of the tool is conical. The one on my Davis resetting tool is hemispherical. Have you compared the two designs? I asked this question on another forum but so far have not gotten an answer.
In all fairness, my resetting tool is about 25 or so years old. Perhaps Davis is using another design now.

AJ,
I'm guessing that your tools are conical. I would assume that the conical type would require less force to reset the socket.

Thanks guys.

George

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Yes, I use a 90 countersink to make the cone end. My cox reset tools (which I basically copied) are also like that, as are the old KK tools I also have.

AJC

BMatthews

After many delays and other projects that had to be fit into the schedule I finally got them done.....

A couple are not yet spoken for if anyone is interested.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bruce:

One of them is mine. How do I get it in my door?

Bill.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Better give him instructions about how to use it, too, BRUCE.

BMatthews

It's not really clear from the picture but those squares are 12 inches across. I had to use a forklift to put the tools into place for the picture. I'm not sure but I think I misread the scale on my drawing. So the question is, how big are your doorways?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Okay, Bruce. You and the Pigg have proven yourselves a pair of wise guys.

I'm sure you both knew I was asking for ordering and payment instructions.

Bill.

PS: You're both on THE LIST now. Bruce can get off by sending me one of the tools, the Pigg is SOL. Haw. wr.

BMatthews

GCB, just read your post about the socket shape. Sorry I didn't see it before.

Technically I suspect the hemispherical shape may be slightly better. But in practice I've found the conical tool works just fine. I've done a good 5 or 6 conrod sockets over the years and generally they seem to stay in tune so long that I really don't think there is any issue with the conical one.

Dukester

My Feedback: (31)

Bruce,

If you still have one unspoken for, I'll take it. Let me know how I can get it in my door. [>:]

Duke



Legal notice: Use of the term 'in my door' does not imply the need for instructions as to how the item will actually be delivered to the interior of my residence. All parties understand that use of said term does not in fact invite comment from the rowdy peanut gallery that typically populates this forum. Furthermore, if you have bothered to read this small print to this point, you should immediately turn off your computer and go cut some balsa, you procrastinator.

BMatthews

Duke, PM me your mailing address. And yes I did read the fine print so you get to avoid the biting sarcasm...

That's all folks. Thankyou for coming out to play.