epilot

Hi All

Has anyone had a go at building a LST from Depron? I have lots of 3 and 6mm Depron but don't know how it reacts with high nitro fuel. I could whip out a LST in an evening if built from Depron. Wing would just be curved 6mm. I have built lots of electric models this way. I would probably tape all joints to avoid fuel seeping in. What to you think?

Michael

PS: I have built over 10 Garden Cubs in various sizes. It would be a good candidate for a 1/2A model:

[link=http://www.sea-gull.demon.co.uk/oldaero.htm#Garden%20Cub]Garden Cub[/link]

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI MICHAEL, DICKEYBIRD built a DEPRON 1/2A plane last year and I think he actually covered it with SOLITE. I would take some raw fuel and let some sit on the DEPRON just to see if it turns to mush or not.

epilot

Errr, don't have any fuel at the moment. So far I have only found someone willing to sell me 10 liters! That will last a gazillion years on a few Cox engines.

Michael

DICKEYBIRD

Hi Michael,

Here's a link to the BareCat, a Depron 3D plane I built for last year's Design Contest. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1418861 At 325 sq. in. and under 10 oz. weight with a Tee Dee .049, it's one of my all time favorites to fly.

The Depron holds up well to glow fuel. I use 35% fuel and have had no problems so far. I try not to spill raw fuel on it but like always, "stuff" happens and when it does, the Depron shows no ill effects.

ps: What is a LST?

Tom @ Buzzard Bluff

A 48" Garden Cub should be great for 1/2As. Just need to figure out something fuelprrof to seal it to cut down on oil absorbtion. I seem to recall thinned white glue being recommended for fuel-proofing on some Brit sites. Might look in that direction.
I have a 40" FFF Cub underway for a J-250 in a GWS box---hmmmmm-----nope, can't do that, it's all set up, just waiting on me to install the radio & struts and put a finish on it. I'm thinking L-4 garb since I just last week found a good OD acrylic in the W-M crafts dept. Tom

epilot

Tom, the Garden Cub should be built from Depron then there will be no problems with fuel soaking into the airframe.

LST is a Littlest Stick

Michael

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Uh, LST is the trainer Bipe came up with. I think you're talking about the LS150.

Bipe Flyer

DB,

Check out the thread stickied to the top of the forum.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1%2F...2301186/tm.htm

We collectively decided to call it the LST (Lynn Sipes Trainer) in memory of Lynn Sipes.

epilot

Yes, I meant the LS150, not the LST. Sorry for the confusion.

Michael

epilot

I just tried to iron solarfilm on to a piece of 6mm Depron and it works well provided the heat is not turned up too high. I think I will have a go and even try to hot wire cut some ribs from Depron.

Some year ago I flew a lot of different Magnums. One had a direct drive speed 400 motor on a 6 cell pack. Wing was just curved 6mm Depron sheet and the fuse a length of pipe insulation. Should work well with a Cox product engine as well for a robust, cheap, quick to build fun flyer. Take a look here. Text is in German but there are pictures:

[link=http://people.freenet.de/slowfly/magnum.htm]Magnum[/link]

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

I made a Bipe with the sheet foam called Zepron. To cut the parts I made a pair of ply templates, sandwiched the foam between them and cut around with a hot wire.
To keep the airfoil shape I made a jig and cooked it in the oven @ 185f for 10 mins. Over 200 the stuff pretzillizes and gets blisters in direct heat. I am dabbling with a 1/4 inch Blue Foam Bird Dog, but that's another thread.

Big Al-RCU

Dang, Skaliwag, that sure turned out nice. Thanks for the tip.
Al Lenz
PS Isn't that a bit much prop for a throttled 010?
al

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Yep... It is too much prop for a Tiny TD but I have been doing my proto's in Electric of late. This one is an idea for a tamed Pee Wee. Without it's GWS - S2, Prop and 2 cell 830 LiPo it weighs in at 4.7oz. Getting back to where this thread started, Zepron ( I think it's the English equall to Depron) seems to be Nitro froof... I puddled 35% on a test piece without observable dissintigration. I havn't put it in a jar and Dunked it over-night though. My thought is that you would have to cover a model, the oil and crud would make it (the model) look grubby real quick. Make sections and glue the completed modules together, like an ARF.
The glue for this stuff could be a whole other thread, I tried to start one about this a while back but ended up having to do my own research (trial and error).
The odourless Ca is Quick but expensive. I found that Z-56 works good but is slow drying. The English forums speak of UHU-POR (Brand I guess) but I havn't been able to acquire any so I don't know. A sub was suggested ... Solvent free Bostic... I had my brother send some generic equall which works quite well, dries in about 20 mins. I am now using something by Liquid Nails from Home Depot----- comes in a tube about 5 inches tall and I think it's the best I have come across.

epilot

I'm lucky - UHU-POR is made in Germany where I live. It stays flexible and with a little care you can actually disassemble a model glued together with UHU-POR because it does not harden.

Brgds

Michael

Bipe Flyer

I've been using regular CA on Depron. It doesn't attack the exterior surface that aggressively but you have to be quick with the accelerator.