jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I want to replace the quality of wire on a Cox glow plug clip with some nice silicon jacket wire. How does this dis-assemble? I dont have any old ones to rip apart, and I would like to get it right the first time.

norvelnut

The easiest way is to cut the wires and splice new ones using shrink wrap to protect fro
m shorts!
Norvelnut

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

I dont believe I'd bother with it,, I have some of those probably 20 years old still going and I just toss them in the box ,,and end up having to untangle one every time I fly....Rog

Larry Driskill

Joe Wagner answered this question on SMALLnet the other day. That issue of SMALLnet is not on their website yet, but here is the URL for future reference:

http://www.eskimo.com/~smallnet/Archive/index1.html

And here is the question and Joe's answer:

Did Cox make a glow plug connector for the .010 and .020 like
the slip-on one for the .049 ? I have the one for the .049, and
would like a source for the smaller Cox engines. Alligator
clips are a pain to use for this purpose.


...Dan, the .049 "Cox Clip" works for the .020 and .010 also.
Look at the slot in the clip's "tongue". You'll see two pairs
of circular "bites" on the slot: a small pair behind the larger one.
These small "bites" are intended for clipping onto the center
post of the .020 and .010 glow heads.

However, I've got to state here & now that the Cox glow plug
clip is poorly made -- but can be modified to work far better.

First, cautiously slit the yellow plastic sleeve down one side.
The plastic is tough and grainless, and it's all too easy for the
knife to go askew when you try to make the cut at one slice.
I recommend several passes that gradually go deeper.

When the slit's complete, spread it apart enough to remove the
two beryllium copper "contact parts". Then with a small flat
screwdriver, pry up the crimped "tubular" portions that hold
the wires.

Throw those paltry wires away ! (Were you surprised to see
that their insulation wasn't even stripped in the crimped
area ? I was !) Use a length of lamp cord to replace the
too-teeny wires that Cox provided.

Scrub the beryllium copper parts until they gleam, with a
toothbrush and some aggressive kitchen cleanser (e.g. Ajax
or Comet). Rinse them, then SOLDER the lampcord ends into
the crimp "tubes".

Now reassemble the "Clip", using a length of shrink tubing
over the yellow plastic to hold the unit back together.

It also helps a lot to keep the contact areas of the clip clean &
free from oil coating and/or oxidation. And from time to
time, spread apart the two contact parts, to make sure there's
plenty of spring pressure of the "fork" part against the
engine's head fins when the "split" part is engaged onto the
glow head's center pin. [JW]

* * * * * * E N D * * * * * *

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

You don't need to slit the yellow sleeve. Pull the metal clip out and unfold the section holding the wires on. There's two pieces. Make sure you run the new wires through the yellow sleeve before attaching to the clips. I soldered mine, but it's probably overkill.
When you're through, just push the clips back in. It's that simple!

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

ptulmer's right on. I was able to pull an old clip apart easily. It was so old, the copper wire had turned black. I just carefully pulled the clips out of the housing and replaced the wire with a 2' length of cord from an old 12v accessory adapter, soldered onto the clips, and added banana plug to the other end so I could use the power panel. the contacts snapped right back in. BTW, if you use the power panel, don't do what I did and plug into the 12v starter tap[X(] unless you want to see how quickly platinum can vaporize. Ahh, the price of not paying attention.