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Can you use the little HiTec HS-55 servo on the 1/2A Shrike or should you go a little larger with the Hitec HS-81?

Thanks

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

I used 2 HS-81's on mine. No problem with the fit. Gets tight up front with the tank, Rx and batt though. I didn't use a switch to save space. I just open the hatch and leave it that way till it's time to fly, then plug in the batt and go. I really like mine. There very fast!!

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What battery did you use? I just ordered a 300mah NiMH from Dave Hacker at Radical RC. The 4.8v battery is only 1 oz!

I have to run three channels. My club is requiring throttle for our Shrike "spec" racing next year. Looking forward to it.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

whats a shrike one of those little triangle shaped things, and dang 2fast you got one of everything dont ya, I like that small plane you entered it was a nice design......Rog

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Yep, the shrike is one of those little triangle things! Here is the link to the plane:

http://www.lanierrc.com/lrcprivate/L...s/shrikes.html

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

I use a 250 NiCd pack which is too big, but it was all I had when I built it. I think 3ch is do-able but man!!! It will be tight. I have one of my Norvel "MOD" engines on it and it will almost hang with a bushed 40 Quickie 500 plane. Lots of fun.

Hay flyinrog, I don't have one of everything, cause I'm always wanting something else!!! LOL

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That would be cool to see. My Norvel 0.61 is NIB.

1. What is the best ticket for break-in?
2. What are the best mods to make it really scream?
3. What prop would you recommend for racing.

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

BREAK-IN....remove the head, coat everything with a good oil, turn by hand for a minute or so, spin with a starter for 30 seconds, repeat as needed.

MODS....Galbreth/Nelson head, 1 shim, polish everything in and out, get a pressure tapped back plate for the non R/C engines.

PROP.... I like my 5x4. I get low to mid 20K rpm at launch and unload a bunch in the air. I also run 25/20 all synthetic fuel. DON'T RUN BYRON FUEL IN A NORVEL!!! TRUST ME ON THIS!!!

I have posted this before, but oh well. I have been ragging on this plane for 3 years and it's still going.

Schu

My Feedback: (5)

down-shift I live in Stafford Va and plan on joining you guys for your races - what are the dates? Thanks Dale

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2fast4u - thanks for the info. Were can you purchase the Galbreth/Nelson head? Also, how do you "polish" the Norvel inside and out? Would this be as simple as using the Dremel with one of those soft furry heads and car wax inside the head? My club (Northern Virginia RC) requires the 0.61 RC Norvel and rules stipulate that we can not tap the backplate for pressure. Could the muffler opening be drilled larger to allow the motor to breath better?

Schu - the dates have not been set, but I proposed the first Saturday of each month with points for the season. Think NASCAR! We had FIFTY club members go into a mass purchase and our kits just arrived last week. The rules say the Shrike has to be bone stock with the Norvel 0.61 RC and three channels. No mods allowed to the airframe. There is no weight minimum, however. Best place to find out the times (once determined) would be our club website. Here is the link: http://www.1nvrc.com/

Check out the pictures of our recent 1/2A race. This was the last "open" 1/2A race. I believe a beautiful Taperwing by Bob Burnett won.

Thanks!

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

As for polishing, I remove the intake venturi and then buff like you were talking about. Then take the eng apart and smooth out the exhaust port. I never do anything INSIDE the engine. As for the Galbreth/Nelson head....I don't know where to get them. I picked up 2 MOD engines on the net that had them on there already. I'm sure someone else will know. There is a glow plug head available for these engines, but it tends to drop the compression and lower performance some. The best thing to do in your case is pull the screen out of the carb, run at least 25% nitro and start playing with props to find your best combo. No one can really tell you how to do it, you just have to get out there and find out what works best for your set up. Good luck. Have fun. SEND PICS!!!

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

I'll be flying in the races. I picked up 2 bundles which at a cost of $55 (20 for the kit and 35 for the Norvel) you can't beat it. Like any real competitive racing, these little buggers are going in at some point.

I'm using the same setup that Pat Dunlap demoed at the funfly last weekend. That's HS-55 for the throttle and 2 Hs-81s for airleron and elevator. I ordered one of the FMA micro receivers and the little NiMH receiver battery, but in the meantime, I have a Hitec 555 Micro and 720Mah NiMH pack (4 AAA in square).

I think we have to keep the engine stock, so all I'm doing is removing a couple of shims to increase compression. I'm going to try different fuel / prop combinations to see what works best. For break in, I used the oil from a tablespoon of wildcat with the alcohol evaporated off. I flipped it by hand about fifty times, then spun it with the starter. It feels relatively smooth now.

This is my first try at the little speedsters so I know I'll need an airframe in reserve.

Jason

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Jason - good job, you are months ahead of schedule!

Funny - I stopped by Hobby Hanger and told Don to stock up on the Shrike hardware. I think ended up purchasing the 2nd to last 1oz tank, Dubro aileron linkages, etc. Bummed that they were already out of the Dave Brown engine mount because I am at the point in construction where I need it. A new shipment should arrive this Friday.

For the airpack, I purchased three Hitec HS-55 servos from HH and ordered the FMA M5 rx, 300mah NIMH battery (only 1 oz. 2/3 AAA size), and micro switch harness from Dave Hacker at Radical RC.

See you at the field for some warm up laps in a few weeks!

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

I think I got the last two engine mounts Tuesday night. I'm making my own airleron linkages and have a box full of fuel tanks and associated knick-knacks from an estate sale.

Good luck with the HS-55s all around. I don't trust them for the surfaces at high speed (I have a couple of stripped HS-55s from a 1/2a Zero, they don't take much banging about, especially on landing)

Pat had a micro-switch in his for the receiver and DIN connector for a charge jack. Looked pretty functional and light weight. I think he's around 14 oz.

Brian Nixon

I'm in on the NVRC Shrike racing, too. I got two kits through the group-buy arrangement. I fly with Prince William Co. RC Flyers, but I'll be showing up for the races.

Any word on doing speed 400 electric pylon as well? I heard the idea was being bounced around.

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Fishstyx

You should of chimed in earlier re: the HS-55 being too small. That was the hole reason behind this thread! Anyhow, I'll try my luck w/ the HS-55s. If to small, there is a HS-81 w/ stripped gears laying around that is ready to be repaired. If given the choice and only using one HS-81, should it go on the aileron or elevator?

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

The elevator is fairly well protected between the vertical stabs. The airleron servo is subject to strongr mechanical forces both in flight and when landing where the airlerons are more likely to take a jolt.

Unfortunately, I didn't see the thread until after it have been up for a while.... and .... I wasn't paying attention . You shouldn't have any problem, but I'd keep a close eye on them. My 55s started stripping without failing completely. Periodically, check them by holding the surface and stalling the servo. I noticed my problem during a simple preflight. When I threw the airlerons back and forth I could hear the servo grinding, but eventually finding position.

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

Mine's ready to go

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

The trim is chrome Monokote

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Looks great, Fishstyx. Mine is getting close. The fuse is finished and covered. Wings should be framed to night.

Fishstyx

My Feedback: (15)

The wings and stab go together quick. Just be sure to get the airleron control arms in place. It worked best for me to cover the legth of the control rod with a plastic tube to keep glue off of it because it's sandwiched between the TE and the stab.