Norvel Engine FAQ
#501
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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
Thanks. I will pick up some of those props and see if I can get it above 16.5k. Am I in danger of ruining the engine at the current rpm? Or is it just a matter of not getting the best power?
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox
To me they should at least spin above 16500rpm to be happy. The APC 6.3x4 is a nice match and will give you +17000rpm.
First question: Am I wrong not trying to eek every last RPM out of it? Right now it spins around 12k to 12.5k with a std plug, one shim, 20% fuel (with 50/50 synth castor at 20%), at 4500' above sea level.
#502
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
It can more easily get overheated and the compression setting might also be too high. You can add a few more head shims and run the engine a little rich, and it might be fine.
A 7x4 spinning at 12000rpm is only about half of the power that these engines can produce. If you want to fly slow then a 7x3 prop might be better, and it fits the engine better too.
A 7x4 spinning at 12000rpm is only about half of the power that these engines can produce. If you want to fly slow then a 7x3 prop might be better, and it fits the engine better too.
#503
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
Hello all:
I have a Kamdax mirage 2000 model with the ducted fan glow engine. The engine is supposed to be the same as the norvel 0,9 engine
On take off, I had to abort twice as the plane was not getting enough speed and would not go up....
I am using 30% nitro. I was thinking If I should go up to 40% nitro and remove the glow plug shim.
I will fit it to the stand and use a normal small prop to see how many rpm I get with the actual 30% nitro fuel, and measure again with the 40% one
Any other ideas??
I have a Kamdax mirage 2000 model with the ducted fan glow engine. The engine is supposed to be the same as the norvel 0,9 engine
On take off, I had to abort twice as the plane was not getting enough speed and would not go up....
I am using 30% nitro. I was thinking If I should go up to 40% nitro and remove the glow plug shim.
I will fit it to the stand and use a normal small prop to see how many rpm I get with the actual 30% nitro fuel, and measure again with the 40% one
Any other ideas??
#504
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
Going up 10% nitro in your fuel is not going to help out that much. Maybe +500 rpm tops. Sounds like you need to gain a lot more thrust than what just higher nitro fuel is going to get ya. Not to mention all the other problems your going to get into using high nitro fuel.
Sound like your problem is not going to be that easy to solve. Sorry but this is just my opinion.
Sound like your problem is not going to be that easy to solve. Sorry but this is just my opinion.
#506
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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
ORIGINAL: Mr Cox
It can more easily get overheated and the compression setting might also be too high. You can add a few more head shims and run the engine a little rich, and it might be fine.
A 7x4 spinning at 12000rpm is only about half of the power that these engines can produce. If you want to fly slow then a 7x3 prop might be better, and it fits the engine better too.
It can more easily get overheated and the compression setting might also be too high. You can add a few more head shims and run the engine a little rich, and it might be fine.
A 7x4 spinning at 12000rpm is only about half of the power that these engines can produce. If you want to fly slow then a 7x3 prop might be better, and it fits the engine better too.
#507
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
Greetings All, i am getting my 074's back in flying shape. Does anyone know where to get 074 norvel glow plugs. I cant find them on the NV site. i see that Mecoa has their own for sale. Are they as good as the norvel plugs? I dont want a standard pug adapter as they are not as good as the original plugs. I do a turbo plug insert, but I have not tried it yet.
Any info y'all might have wold be greatly appreciated.
Digger
Any info y'all might have wold be greatly appreciated.
Digger
#508
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
Digger -
NV had the .074 plugs a few months back. I expect that these were old stock and have been sold off without any new plugs being manufactured. Since they are now listing the standard plug adapter, there may be no plans for future production.
Several folks have used the Mecoa plugs (not necessarily the NORVEL) with satisfactory results. At this time, I don't know of any other supplier for the OEM NORVEL plug.
NV had the .074 plugs a few months back. I expect that these were old stock and have been sold off without any new plugs being manufactured. Since they are now listing the standard plug adapter, there may be no plans for future production.
Several folks have used the Mecoa plugs (not necessarily the NORVEL) with satisfactory results. At this time, I don't know of any other supplier for the OEM NORVEL plug.
#509
RE: Norvel Engine FAQ
The K&B plugs for the .074 work just fine. Last time NV was out of stock, about a year ago, I used the K&B ones with no issues at all. Available on the MECOA site. I think platinum is difficult to get in Russia some times.
#510
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Where can I get modified heads to run Turbo-plugs in a Norvel big mig .074 ? (E-mail address is; [email protected])
#511
Norvel .061 Big Mig CL on MECOA Cox .049 Texaco Glow Plug Head
Hi all. Just wanted to mention that I have found the Norvel .061 Big Mig CL engine to be a sweet engine even with the lower compression MECOA .049 Texaco Glow Plug Head. This head is the red anodized one that uses standard length glow plugs.
The APC 7x3 glass filled prop has too much inertia to work with it. It seems happiest with the Masters 6x3 and 6x4 glass filled props. It currently flies on an old Sureflite 40" span Cessna 180, hauls it around very spiritedly. Some years back I flew its sister, the Sureflite 40" span Piper Cub on an OS Max .10 RC baffle piston and 7x4 prop. I was surprised how well the Norvel hauls this foam beast around even with the glow plug head. I'm using a custom blended fuel that has about 22% nitro in it.
Photos are courtesy of Gary Jone, MADS Club, Clovis, NM.
The APC 7x3 glass filled prop has too much inertia to work with it. It seems happiest with the Masters 6x3 and 6x4 glass filled props. It currently flies on an old Sureflite 40" span Cessna 180, hauls it around very spiritedly. Some years back I flew its sister, the Sureflite 40" span Piper Cub on an OS Max .10 RC baffle piston and 7x4 prop. I was surprised how well the Norvel hauls this foam beast around even with the glow plug head. I'm using a custom blended fuel that has about 22% nitro in it.
Photos are courtesy of Gary Jone, MADS Club, Clovis, NM.
#512
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Have found 6" by 4" props on e-bay. (1.hobby #11169) You get 5 props for $6.99. Shipping is free. Have run these props at 12,500 on a Cox reed engine. These are electric props. They come with plastic shaft adapters.
#515
JB Weld applied on a completely clean surface (acetone works well here) will make essentially a permanent bond.
However, my inclination would be either to cross drill the older carb and bolt it on or to use a sealant that can be broken loose more easily than JB Weld, such as one of the RTV Silicones. At a future date, you may want to either change out the throttle body or need to replace it if broken.
However, my inclination would be either to cross drill the older carb and bolt it on or to use a sealant that can be broken loose more easily than JB Weld, such as one of the RTV Silicones. At a future date, you may want to either change out the throttle body or need to replace it if broken.
#516
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wow, forum has weird bugs, I replied and somehow it pasted my statement from yesterday in the reply field... anyway.
Thanks for the ideas. I've never used any RTV silicones for this kind of thing. What am I looking for? is there a specific High Heat one?
also, I would drill it out, but theres not really enough meat on it.
Thanks for the ideas. I've never used any RTV silicones for this kind of thing. What am I looking for? is there a specific High Heat one?
also, I would drill it out, but theres not really enough meat on it.
#517
I used a G. E. brand years ago that was pretty good. The stinky stuff is the best. Lately everything is water cleanup in the domestic hardware brands. I would imagine the Permatex copper or even the red or blue automotive type would be fine if you have deep pockets. Read the label on the Permatex type, there are some different qulities for heat and chemical resistance. I have got swap meet motors on combat planes with the whole front housing molded from silicone. Blue and clear, both seemed to work ok. It doesn't get too hot near the carb. I have used it on a backplate once too.
Last edited by aspeed; 09-13-2013 at 04:35 AM.
#519
About a 5-4" or maybe 4 1/2-5" if you can find one. Eliminator props carries some. The 1/2A ones are a bit small for an .06, but one of the larger sizes may be ok. Wood ones are good too.
#520
Didn't mean to contradict your advice, aspeed, post occurred before seeing your post.
Last edited by GallopingGhostler; 10-30-2013 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Further clarification.
#522
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I just bought a norvel engine first one for me but the guy I got it from said the motor is new but carb was stuck . after some heat and work the thumb screw pulled off the needle . more heat and work I got the needle out . throttle barrell is still stuck heated again and again this bugger must have got glued in when the carb was glued on . is there a retainer somewhere that has to be removed to get barrel out of carb as I took every thing off that is possible I do not see anything im stumped and how to reset the needle in thumb screw . as I cant find anybody selling parts for these I need some help
#523
First, you can get parts thru NV Engines (nvengines.com). This link will take you directly to the parts page for the .061 BigMig. NV are available in two lengths.
The carb barrel screws onto the threaded portion of the fuel nipple on the right side (looking at the back of the engine) of the throttle housing. If you have already back the fuel nipple out, the carb should slide out. If the fuel nipple is still in place, the barrel will unscrew counter-clockwise.
Post #8 at the beginning of this FAQ has an exploded view of the engine.
The carb barrel screws onto the threaded portion of the fuel nipple on the right side (looking at the back of the engine) of the throttle housing. If you have already back the fuel nipple out, the carb should slide out. If the fuel nipple is still in place, the barrel will unscrew counter-clockwise.
Post #8 at the beginning of this FAQ has an exploded view of the engine.
Last edited by Andrew; 02-06-2014 at 08:55 PM.