flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Clue me in on this AME .061...different muffler with no exhaust nipple to pressurize the tank?, I remember Fireman breaks his norvels in without muffler so it must not be too much of an issue,,does it need bench breakin?,,I dont have anything ready to put it in as of right now,,how many turns out of the needle,,what about shims? It is a cool little muffler,,,no throttle,,I didnt get any instructions with it, the guy had about 10 .049-.061 engines in one box all new and shiny maybe hot I dont know..they were $25 ea...Rog

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Rog, the AME muffler might make the carbureted version run better, but it is useless on the fixed venturi model, just robs power and retains heat. I have had very spotty results with these engines, every single one of the old ones would end up with gouged pistons and die from lack of compression. The REVLITE version has done better, but it is still difficult to tune, and I have had numerous failures with them too. The TD is still the king of the $25 engines, as far as I'm concerned. Guys who run AMEs usually have coffee cans full of toasted engines and parts, with the FORA, I've never even had the head or backplate off of it. I've finally come to the conclusion that if you want high performance, without the headaches of looking at replacement parts lists all the time, just go out and buy a FORA or CYCLON. In the long haul, you will be money ahead.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Sounds like an older AME. Does the exhaust exit straight out the back? Flyswatter gave me a brand new one just the other day. (Yep, GAVE!)

hogflyer

CP -

Where is the best place to find a FORA or CYCLONE? Do they come throttled, or just a venturi?

Hogflyer

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HF, look up the NORTH AMERICAN SPEED SOCIETY, you will find links to the CYCLON and other great stuff. The FORA is available through GRS models, GEORGE CLEVELAND. No carbs for these bad boys, they are thouroughbreds.

build light

I too am clueless on the FORA and CYCLON. Can ya clue us in? What is that saying... Toss me a frickkin' bone here? I'm not sure if thats the phrase or not. Any way, I don't know where to get one, don't know what they look like, nor how much they cost, or where to get one, or how much they weigh or if they look really cool or dorky, or where to get one, or whether they come in just a non- throttled version or throttled as well. Are they 2 different mfgs? Japanese? Chinese? US of A?

Are there plenty of parts available? How cheap are the glowplugs or do they use standard glowplugs?

What kind of break-in?

Are you a supplier of these engines?

Robert

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

They're Eastern European made [both brands]. They have been sold by the hundreds to C/L combat flyers, some RC combat flyers, F/F guys, and a few RC speeed freeeks, so I imagine there are plenty of repair parts. They use a Nelson glow plug, [it costs about $3.50]. As far as I know, they must be run only on a high pressure bladder feed, so throttling is out of the question. If you want to see a 1/2A model do 120-130 mph, and do it all day on 15% fuel, then this is the way to go. I already listed suppliers on the post above, just type it in on a google search. Last time I looked, both engines were still going for less than $200.

build light

Sorry CP I missed the sources before. They sound nice and yes the price is a little steep but they do look to be of high quality. I may want one one day. Or 2.

For now I prefer the ability to throttle back and relax. When I was younger I could stand (or should I say preffered) being "on the edge of my seat" for extended periods.
I bet it is a sight and a sound to see these things tearing up the sky(circle) !

Robert

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

umm it exits straight out the back of the muffler not the cylincer like the VA...Rog

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

ROBERT, the speed thing just kind of creeps up on you. At first the TD seemed like quite a lot, but after awhile it seemed fairly tame. Then the AME shows up, same story, but I never got more than 2 killer runs back to back out of one. Then the VA came along, and it was definately a step up, probably the first stock .049 sold in significant numbers to be capable of breaking 100 right out of the box. Even the first VAs needed internal work to keep running. Then along came the CYCLON and some time later I saw the FORA! These engines caused the standard 35 foot C/L circle to look silly, changing the rules to 42 feet probably took less time to accomplish than any other rule book change ever, possibly unanamously voted in. The increase in power and consistency turned the event into a flyers' sport, instead of an engine mans' sport. If you prop one of these engines with a 5.7x3, it will tame it some, but you will have a consistent runner like you've never seen before.

Toad

Dont count out the AME. they can and will run good for a very long time. If you dont want yours and it is new, I can take it off your hands for what ya paid for it.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the offer, TOAD, but I don't have any that are worth the postage! What rpm would you say is the long term red line for the AME?

Andrew

Robert --

If you want to see CP whippin' the dog, go to the [link=http://www.donatelli.net/_write/contest2005/]2005 Contest Site[/link] and watch the Mustang Racer video in CP's entry. You can hear it, but it's so fast, it's tough to see.

Toad

Well, I know that Mike Gordon ran his ame .049's all season long and into the next race season, doing well over 27k
I have a .061 that I think has flown about 3 qts of fuel, 1oz at a time that I consistantly run over 28k
I would think that on a conservative prop, like the tornado 5x3 or the MA 5.5x4 and running about 22-25k you should get well over 128oz through one, That is a gallon of fuel which I consider reasonable.
My offer to buy was pointed at the guy that started the thread. I forgot to click that little reply thingy and just quick posted instead. Sorry bout that. Anyway, in the racing enviroment, I never got a TD to last a gallon before it needed re-built or broke, that was running them as close to 24k as I could get from it. I found the AME to last longer, hold up better, easier to needle in the racing enviroment. I never tried one on 15% fuel, I did try a Shuriken and a CS on that 15%, they just didnt like to smooth out on the needle with that little of nitro. Anyway, back to building

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

TOAD, It's funny how our experiences are 180 out. I've gotten years of use from TDs in the 23-24000 range, and each one got its' fair share of full speed shut downs [in the dirt] while flying C/L combat. I've fried more TDs and AMEs in high speed dives with RC planes than any other way.

build light

Andrew, CP, That is quite impressive indeed! Very nice video too!

CP, you made your plane sturdy I see. They should take a few bounces before they give in!
It has a nice finish as well. How did you finish it? Oh! and I might add it was very fast as well.

Robert

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

ANDREW, in the beginning of the video, it looks more like I was spanking the monkey .

scudrunner77

I'm going to have to watch the video again... LOL...

KidEpoxy

After watching them first few launches, I feel better about my own launches. Of course mine take 5mins to cure before I can try again. Thanx CP for that inspirational footage.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

BL, it was done with TOWERKOTE, if I remember correctly and so was the trim. The upper part of the fuselage is foam, and it was a delicate operation to get it covered without melting. Since the whole thing weighs 11 ozs, it doesn't build up much momentum on a bad launch. Hard to beat solid sheet balsa for strength/weight in this small of a scale.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

So theres no .074 soak the cylinder with oil for 24 hours before starting kinda thing?..fire it up and run it alittle rich for a few tanks...Rog

Andrew

Rog --

Same procedure as with the .061 -- since the technology is the same, AAO, the aluminum oxide is porous and will absorb some oil during the soaking. If your .074 is tight at the top, you'll want to get it up to operating temp quickly -- a very fat two cycle or preheat with a heat gun.

NORVEL's [link=http://www.norvel.com/t001.html]Tech Site[/link]