Single channel trim guide
#1
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Single channel trim guide
Gentle Readers (if you read Miss Manners) - or -
Dear Youse-all (for us Yankee-to-C1/2AC transplants) - or -
Hey Bubba (for Southern natives) - or -
Comrades (for former Communist-bloc residents) - or -
Hail Caesar (... OK, I quit),
I have been digging through my old magazines looking for nothing in particular. But in 1965 I found two articles that I thought some of youse (or yunz if you prefer) might find interesting. I tried to send the whole articles in the format that comes out of my photo scanner but got rejected because they are too large. So here is what I think I can load this time . . .
From MAN, May 1965 excerpts from an article on how to trim a Class 1 (rudder, engine) R/C model. The first attachment tells the goal and the second is a condensation of the steps the author takes - like a cheat-sheet.
I guess I could post the whole five pages one-at-a-time if anyone is interested. I just got a little frustrated getting rejects. So, reply if I have whetted anybodies curiosity and in a day or two I'll add the whole thing. (Don't expect miraculous revelations, its pretty much common-sense and FF trimming logic).
Dear Youse-all (for us Yankee-to-C1/2AC transplants) - or -
Hey Bubba (for Southern natives) - or -
Comrades (for former Communist-bloc residents) - or -
Hail Caesar (... OK, I quit),
I have been digging through my old magazines looking for nothing in particular. But in 1965 I found two articles that I thought some of youse (or yunz if you prefer) might find interesting. I tried to send the whole articles in the format that comes out of my photo scanner but got rejected because they are too large. So here is what I think I can load this time . . .
From MAN, May 1965 excerpts from an article on how to trim a Class 1 (rudder, engine) R/C model. The first attachment tells the goal and the second is a condensation of the steps the author takes - like a cheat-sheet.
I guess I could post the whole five pages one-at-a-time if anyone is interested. I just got a little frustrated getting rejects. So, reply if I have whetted anybodies curiosity and in a day or two I'll add the whole thing. (Don't expect miraculous revelations, its pretty much common-sense and FF trimming logic).
#3
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RE: Single channel trim guide
Vic, or should I say,
!!!!!
. .
V
Perhaps you could consolidate your insurance claims and include your already existing deformities - in your brain!
As an alternative to twisting your head you could (pick one). . .
A. Pick up the monitor and turn it sideways (this may take you two or three turns to get it right)
B. Print out the attachments and turn them until the printing becomes clear.
C. Call me the next time you are in the neighborhood and I'll read them to you over lunch.
!!!!!
. .
V
Perhaps you could consolidate your insurance claims and include your already existing deformities - in your brain!
As an alternative to twisting your head you could (pick one). . .
A. Pick up the monitor and turn it sideways (this may take you two or three turns to get it right)
B. Print out the attachments and turn them until the printing becomes clear.
C. Call me the next time you are in the neighborhood and I'll read them to you over lunch.
#8
RE: Single channel trim guide
As I remember. It was 1 audio tone generator that was pulsed on and off to cause the rudder to wiggle back and forth. 50 % on 50 % off = neutral.
Control of the rudder was 20 % = full left-- 50 % = neutral -- 80% = full right.
0 % = slow engine-- 100 % = full speed.
It gave variable rudder either way, between 20 % and 80 %.
Simple, but VERY effective.
You always had a choice then. Use that or fly a kite.
Pilot skills were EVERYTHING.
Control of the rudder was 20 % = full left-- 50 % = neutral -- 80% = full right.
0 % = slow engine-- 100 % = full speed.
It gave variable rudder either way, between 20 % and 80 %.
Simple, but VERY effective.
You always had a choice then. Use that or fly a kite.
Pilot skills were EVERYTHING.
#9
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RE: Single channel trim guide
ORIGINAL: ptulmer
The very thought of trying to build and fly a rudder only job makes my skin crawl! Thanks for the info guys. Very interesting.
The very thought of trying to build and fly a rudder only job makes my skin crawl! Thanks for the info guys. Very interesting.
Make up an LS 150 with the large span and full dihedral and join in the fun! If you're worried that much add a throttle so you can bail out if it's not quite in trim.
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RE: Single channel trim guide
Oh, I like the idea of using an "updated" LS-150. I had been looking at the original LW Kitten plans and thinking I might actually get one done in time for Bob Harris' Spring event. But since I have a ready-to-try LS-150 just sitting there staring at me - well maybe the Kitten will just have to wait its turn. Just cut the wing down the center and add a touch more dihedral and disengage the elevator servo - I'm in business (I alrady have motor control).
#11
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RE: Single channel trim guide
Raymond, remember that if you reduced the decalage as per the elevator included plans you'll need to dial in some up trim on the servo before you fly. Also you'll want to add a stack of 2 or 3 downthrust washers.
The trim of an R/O model is a mixup of one factor fighting another to result in a balance. The model flies with a relatively forward (by our typical standards) CG location countered by a fair amount of decalage or up elevator trim. This would normally make the model climb to a stall or loop but by countering this with a heap of downthrust we end up with a controlled climb roughly equivalent to a strong uphill glide.
I also found with my Mini Reb that if you have the chance to do so that a slight mush or stall oscillation in the glide is a great way to go. Then you can use just a nice big open turn and the glide smooths out without a strong descent resulting. Just fly it in a series of long S turns or live with the slight pitch oscillation.
Landings are best done with a final constant radius turn sized so the model is in a moderate speed spiral descent. Then when you correct it to straight and level the speed results in a nice pull up to level flight and roll onto the wheels. On about 1/5 of my flights over a smooth grass field I've managed to touch down with a nice flare and rollout that ends within 20 feet of me. At least one person had to be shown that there was no elevator on it after that...
See why I like this style of flying so much?
The trim of an R/O model is a mixup of one factor fighting another to result in a balance. The model flies with a relatively forward (by our typical standards) CG location countered by a fair amount of decalage or up elevator trim. This would normally make the model climb to a stall or loop but by countering this with a heap of downthrust we end up with a controlled climb roughly equivalent to a strong uphill glide.
I also found with my Mini Reb that if you have the chance to do so that a slight mush or stall oscillation in the glide is a great way to go. Then you can use just a nice big open turn and the glide smooths out without a strong descent resulting. Just fly it in a series of long S turns or live with the slight pitch oscillation.
Landings are best done with a final constant radius turn sized so the model is in a moderate speed spiral descent. Then when you correct it to straight and level the speed results in a nice pull up to level flight and roll onto the wheels. On about 1/5 of my flights over a smooth grass field I've managed to touch down with a nice flare and rollout that ends within 20 feet of me. At least one person had to be shown that there was no elevator on it after that...
See why I like this style of flying so much?
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RE: Single channel trim guide
Thanks for the reminder Bruce,
The Kitten plans I have from the original magazine article don't show an 'active' elevator although I'm sure there were later ones (like the electrified one one that showed up in the last year or so). So I wouldn't plan to change its decalage.
However, you're right about the LS-150 needing a nudge in the back end.
I also ran into a set of plans by Jack Headly from the long defunct RC Sportsman tabloid for a 1/2A RO design. Its called the Champ (bears some resemblance). I might have to take a look at it before I decide which model to build.
The Kitten plans I have from the original magazine article don't show an 'active' elevator although I'm sure there were later ones (like the electrified one one that showed up in the last year or so). So I wouldn't plan to change its decalage.
However, you're right about the LS-150 needing a nudge in the back end.
I also ran into a set of plans by Jack Headly from the long defunct RC Sportsman tabloid for a 1/2A RO design. Its called the Champ (bears some resemblance). I might have to take a look at it before I decide which model to build.
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RE: Single channel trim guide
You know, my very first RC experience was back in the early 60s with an OS single channel set (push button) and a RO Ace(?) Nomad pylon powered glider. Engine was a 020 PeeWee and the glider was covered with silkspan and clear dope. I had great fun with that little glider. Wish I could find another Nomad - I would build it and let pt practice his RO skills (when he can get the stick away from me)!
#15
RE: Single channel trim guide
Has anyone flown the Ace Guppy? I have one stuff in a box, wings joined but the fuse will need to be rebuilt. Is is any good on single channel, or better left in the box or hanging from the ceiling. From what I remember the wing was somewhat heavy.
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RE: Single channel trim guide
At Dave Fritzke's site the address is there for Ted Strader who is still selling copies of his old plans. The Nomad among them. For a few bucks you could relive the dream.
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RE: Single channel trim guide
Thanks Mr. B. I will look that one up. If pt keeps up with the snide comments, then I won't let him fly it when it is done.