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HOB p-51 build

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Old 02-26-2006, 10:10 PM
  #26  
Sneasle
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

scud... ya.. good luck with that.. that plane still looks good...

hog...

ya.. i didnt think the weight would be too big of an issue.. any recommendations on a good engine?
was lookign at an OS .15 L or somethign like that?

what about fuel tank size? should i go for about the biggest i can fit into it?

and if i use hs 55 for the servos... are then certain areas i should use somethign different? should i mount the rudder and elevator servos in the rear? or leave them over the wing and run long control rods?

i know i can use two servos for the wing, but what if i lay them on their side? would that allow me to keep them hidden? or would the amount of work to make that possible be too much hassle?
Old 02-26-2006, 10:42 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ORIGINAL: Sneasle
about the servos... what if i laid it on its side? would that work? how would i run the linkages then?
If you are going to mount it sideways, you'll need to make a little hatch for it. Glue a couple of small blocks to two of the ribs and mount a small hatch. Then you can mount the servo to the hatch so you can pull it if needed. Cut a slot in the hatch for the servo arm to stick out and you can run the linkage directly to the aileron.

Duke
Old 02-26-2006, 11:01 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Since Jett doesn't make a .15 [], either an OS, TT or Magnum .15 should work fine. If you can find an older Fox .15 (like in the 70's to early 80's) it would be even better. Those old Fox .15's where great runners.

Stuff in the largest fuel tank that will fit. I do that on all my planes.

I install my radio's a bit different that a lot of people do today. I completely finish the plane, then set it on my balance jig. I mount the aileron servo wing first. I like to mount aileron servo as close to the spar as possible since it's usually the depest part of the wing. Then I'll place the radio on the plane, shifting components to where I achieve the best balance. Try to keep the radio inside the fuselage and as close to the center line as possible - much cleaner and better looking. I'd use one servo and the torque links for the ailerons - they should be fine unless you're going to add flaps and retracts, they you'll have to engineer your radio installation to fit the specific components and layout. Same for the fuselage - locate where your radio will install, then make your pushrods from hard balsa sticks.

If you use (2) HS-55 servos for the ailerons, they should be fine. Probably OK for the rudder and elevator also.

Hogflyer
Old 02-27-2006, 12:26 AM
  #29  
Sneasle
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

you mean one of these fox's? http://cgi.ebay.com/FOX-15-ENGINE_W0...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 02-27-2006, 08:13 AM
  #30  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Close - that is a control line engine. It doesn't have a throttle on it. The engine you need is will have a throttle. The Fox I'm thinking of is probably quite hard to find. I got rid of my last one on a Sig Doubler almost 20 years ago. Overall, your probably just as well off with the OS .15 LA - almost a bullit proof engine and will have plenty of power for this little bird.
Old 02-27-2006, 09:21 AM
  #31  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Great thread, I have the 1/2A and a .25 HOB Mustang still in the box, I also have a .15LA looking for a home, now I found it, how would you mount this engine in the 1/2A, sideways or upright?

Joe
Old 02-27-2006, 09:54 AM
  #32  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Joe,

I mounted my Magnum .15 with the cylinder head towards the bottom(i.e. inverted). Fine if you're using the landing gear or adding retracts (and remove the plug after use) but not a good choice for a belly flopper.

If you're going to flop it then I would mount the engine 90deg to the right with the exhaust towards the bottom. There should be enough room to hide your exhaust in the cowl and it would look too cool coming out the bottom.

Cheers,

Alex
Old 02-27-2006, 10:18 AM
  #33  
Sneasle
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ORIGINAL: hogflyer

Close - that is a control line engine. It doesn't have a throttle on it. The engine you need is will have a throttle. The Fox I'm thinking of is probably quite hard to find. I got rid of my last one on a Sig Doubler almost 20 years ago. Overall, your probably just as well off with the OS .15 LA - almost a bullit proof engine and will have plenty of power for this little bird.
ok, i saw a few others on ebay as well....

beware, massive amounts of links comming.. if anyone has the time too look through some of these and provide some input, id be most grateful.

to joe
have fun with that. so far its been a nice little build.

to flymonkey
ya.. the plans called for inverted on whatever even engine is dawn in, but its small enough that it doenst stick out at all. i will try for the inverted under the assumtion i can find the retracts small enough for this bird. if not, would it be better to build it with gear or better for a handlaunch/belly lander?

does anyone know of a good tuned pipe that "might" work on this bird? i dont realyl need whatever extra power it might provide, i would just prefer the more streamlined look.

also, to whomever might be able to answer, when carving out these blocks, how think/thick should i leave the balsa? if i carve it thinker should i let some thin CA wick into it? im debating with myself over how much balsa i wanna take out and how much i want to leave behind.
Old 02-27-2006, 12:43 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build


ORIGINAL: Sneasle

also, to whomever might be able to answer, when carving out these blocks, how think/thick should i leave the balsa? if i carve it thinker should i let some thin CA wick into it? im debating with myself over how much balsa i wanna take out and how much i want to leave behind.
This is really subjective. It depends on how the balsa block looks/feels as you take out material. The only way to tell is to start carving on it until you think your at the limit between lightness and strength. Just remember the lower nose block will take the most abuse on landing on grass. For the upper nose block you can probably go down to 1/8", possibly thinner, and back it with very light cloth and CA. Then again it depends on how the block feels and looks. Just make sure you carve it on the OML before hogging out the IML (don't ask how I learned the one ).

Hogflyer
Old 02-27-2006, 12:55 PM
  #35  
Sneasle
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ORIGINAL: hogflyer

Then again it depends on how the block feels and looks. Just make sure you carve it on the OML before hogging out the IML (don't ask how I learned the one ).

Hogflyer
padron but i wanna make sure i understand your teminology.. your refering to making sure you have the outer dimensions of the block carved correctly before you start hollowing it out.. right?
Old 02-27-2006, 01:01 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

the massive amount of links prommised...

1. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
3. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
4. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
5. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
6. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
7. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
8. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
9. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
10. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
11. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT


sorry its so many.. any input greatly appreciated..
Old 02-27-2006, 01:07 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

You are correct.

Sorry about that, out of habbit I use IML for Inner Mold Line and OML for Outer Mold Line (I do Mfg. Eng. work on the 737 thrust reverser/nacelles). You want to carve the outer surface first. This sets the firm outer mold line (the shape of the outside of the structure) and lets you know how far you can go in removing material (hogging out) from the inner surface.

hogflyer
Old 02-27-2006, 01:28 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ah, ok, i though thats what you meant. just wanted to make sure.

must be an interesting job
Old 02-27-2006, 01:34 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Love it. Get to work with advanced materials, processes and systems. A lot of cutting edge technology. Once you work in aerospace, there's nothing else that can come close.
Old 02-27-2006, 04:21 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build


ORIGINAL: flymonkey

Joe,

I mounted my Magnum .15 with the cylinder head towards the bottom(i.e. inverted). Fine if you're using the landing gear or adding retracts (and remove the plug after use) but not a good choice for a belly flopper.

If you're going to flop it then I would mount the engine 90deg to the right with the exhaust towards the bottom. There should be enough room to hide your exhaust in the cowl and it would look too cool coming out the bottom.

Cheers,

Alex

What size prop did you use? btw, I'll be using the stock landin gear.

Joe
Old 02-27-2006, 05:07 PM
  #41  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Joe,

I use an 8x4 with my Magnum.15

Alex
Old 02-27-2006, 06:31 PM
  #42  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

Thanks

Joe
Old 02-27-2006, 11:06 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

anyone got any input on the links previosuly posted?
Old 02-27-2006, 11:26 PM
  #44  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

I build the Focke Wulf on the same line. Great flying airplane. Mine was with an OS .10 FP with the carburetor bored out. Was built using micro servos and small battery. At first was hard to fly and turned out to be the big scale wheels. With the landing gear removed was very different. So I changed the wheels for a smaller one and then flew very good.
To me a 15 will be to heavy and the perfect engine is the Norvel 74.
With the 10 was nose heavy, imagine with the 15.
Just my very own opinion.
Old 02-27-2006, 11:53 PM
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

bolio

i can see where that plane might be a little nose heavy. i dont think this mustang will be though. from the way its consrtucted, it looks liek tis gonna be really tail heavy.
Old 02-28-2006, 12:06 AM
  #46  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build


ORIGINAL: Sneasle

bolio

i can see where that plane might be a little nose heavy. i dont think this mustang will be though. from the way its consrtucted, it looks liek tis gonna be really tail heavy.
Don't think so, the nose moment is larger than the Focke Wulf and this was nose heavy. I ended putting 1/2 once of lead in the tail of mine.
Saludos.
Old 02-28-2006, 01:53 AM
  #47  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ORIGINAL: Bolio


ORIGINAL: Sneasle

bolio

i can see where that plane might be a little nose heavy. i dont think this mustang will be though. from the way its consrtucted, it looks liek tis gonna be really tail heavy.
Don't think so, the nose moment is larger than the Focke Wulf and this was nose heavy. I ended putting 1/2 once of lead in the tail of mine.
Saludos.
really.. ooo.. thats kinda scaring me.. last thing i need is to have to add weight to balance it out... hmm.. i will play with the electronics some and maybe that will help, especially if i mount the elevator and rudder servo far enough back in the tail.

oh, does anyway know of a way that i could make the tail gear stearable with the rudder? i dont really want to attack it to the rudder, for fear of breaking the rudder on a landing, esp if i have to do a belly for some reason or another.
Old 02-28-2006, 08:53 AM
  #48  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

I used a steerable tail wheel on my P51 attatched to the rudder. Never had any problems with it. Then again, I wasn't using a .15 on mine. You could always do a more scale approach using a separate pushrod from the rudder to a tailwheel mounted further forward on the fuse. However, I believe this would be very tricky to hook up. Unless you plan on doing a lot of taxiing I would nix the steering. You won't need it for takeoff. Boy, you're making me REALLY want to build another one of these!

Brian
Old 02-28-2006, 11:23 AM
  #49  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

ORIGINAL: fireman7875

I used a steerable tail wheel on my P51 attatched to the rudder. Never had any problems with it. Then again, I wasn't using a .15 on mine. You could always do a more scale approach using a separate pushrod from the rudder to a tailwheel mounted further forward on the fuse. However, I believe this would be very tricky to hook up. Unless you plan on doing a lot of taxiing I would nix the steering. You won't need it for takeoff. Boy, you're making me REALLY want to build another one of these!

Brian
haha.. ya.. the bug is contangoius aint it... anyway.... your probably right.. sonsidering im lookign at possibly doing gear up belly landings, i think ill leave the tail wheel as strong as i possibly can.
Old 02-28-2006, 11:26 AM
  #50  
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Default RE: HOB p-51 build

other motor options Cox .074 with throttle ... Cox Med .09 no throttle. You have to watch the weight on these little planes. When they first came out guys were putting TD 051s in them and they flew good. So with a .15 they will be rockets. I had a Ace All Star bipe designed for .049-.09 and put a 15 in it. It was fast but, I likes it better with the 09 in it. An 09 with a 2 oz tamk will fly about 8 minutes. I like the medallion 09 because it isn`t as touchy on the needle valve setting. I wouldn`t add the retracts and stearable tailwheel. For one thing if you are flying off grass the small main wheels will be a problem on take off. They will be next to impossible so that makes a stearable tailwheel worthless. As for retracts, almost as worthless. My guess is that you will be hand launching the plane so just leave the mains off and land in the grass as you suggested. It will eventually where the bottom of the plane. Just remember that 1/2 A Usally refers to .049 or close. A 15 is like 3 times the size. Whatever you deside I hope you just have fun with it.


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