Cox .049 Crank Shaft
03-26-2006, 11:11 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Baltimore,
MD
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cox .049 Crank Shaft
Ok, I really did it now... I have a brand new surestart 049 and I was removing the thrust washer off the crank and 'CrAcK' went the crank shaft.... So now the thrust washer is off but so is the end of the crank shaft. Does anyone have an extra to sell, or can they tell me where to order one for a resonable price. I mean I only paid 15 bucks with shipping for the engine. I could buy another one and keep this for parts, but I figured, hey why not ask.
thanks
thanks
03-26-2006, 11:46 AM
#2
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chilliwack, BC, CANADA
Posts: 12,425
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
19 Posts
RE: Cox .049 Crank Shaft
It sounds like these new Cox engines do not get the same attention to metallurgy as the old ones. I doubt the older ones would have broken a shaft like that.
I've got some spares but I'm way over on the other end of the country and over a border. If none of our US based cousins can help out then I'll step back up to the plate.
And just so we can help you avoid this next time... what method were you using to get the thrust washer off?
The "normal" way to do it is to take apart the rest of the engine and then with just the case and crank you put back in the prop screw and then either put the whole works between the jaws of a large vise and push on the prop screw to push the crack bach into the case and pop the washer loose or you can use a bit of hardwood to protect the scew and LIGHTLY hammer on the screw to push the crank back into the case. Either way pushes the crank back and out of the washer. Be sure to pad the end of the case if you use a vise so the jaws or burrs in the jaws do not mark the end of the crankcase. A slip of thin plywood works well.
No levering or other prying allowed.
I've got some spares but I'm way over on the other end of the country and over a border. If none of our US based cousins can help out then I'll step back up to the plate.
And just so we can help you avoid this next time... what method were you using to get the thrust washer off?
The "normal" way to do it is to take apart the rest of the engine and then with just the case and crank you put back in the prop screw and then either put the whole works between the jaws of a large vise and push on the prop screw to push the crack bach into the case and pop the washer loose or you can use a bit of hardwood to protect the scew and LIGHTLY hammer on the screw to push the crank back into the case. Either way pushes the crank back and out of the washer. Be sure to pad the end of the case if you use a vise so the jaws or burrs in the jaws do not mark the end of the crankcase. A slip of thin plywood works well.
No levering or other prying allowed.
03-26-2006, 08:10 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Antonio,
TX
Posts: 6,681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cox .049 Crank Shaft
Ray-
Give the Reedie FAQ Thread(stickied to the top of the threadlist) a read over... lots of good info in there- I asked about getting the washer off & a few posts responded, giving a nice Big Picture of what's going on.... pretty sure Bruce was one of them helpful folks.
I needed 2 of them $7 engines, so I ordered 4... I mean, they're $7, why not cram a bunch in the box for just one shipping$
I was wondering- why pull the prop driver washer? It was the driver, not a thrust washer, on the surestart right ?
Give the Reedie FAQ Thread(stickied to the top of the threadlist) a read over... lots of good info in there- I asked about getting the washer off & a few posts responded, giving a nice Big Picture of what's going on.... pretty sure Bruce was one of them helpful folks.
I needed 2 of them $7 engines, so I ordered 4... I mean, they're $7, why not cram a bunch in the box for just one shipping$
I was wondering- why pull the prop driver washer? It was the driver, not a thrust washer, on the surestart right ?
