finishman2000

My Feedback: (7)

I can't seem to be able to kill the engine in flight. I have the barrel all the way closed (pulled tight) by the servo and it still runs. I end up going way up after 10 minutes when the tank is getting low and start a power dive till it sucks air. Any special adjustment that I'm missing?
Also 35% nitro the best for speed? Thanks, Cas

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

35% will wake it up some, it's good to have extra head shims to counteract blown glow plugs. My .074 came with a very loose carburetor, you could JB WELD it in if it is loose / sucking air. I just run mine till it's out of fuel, so the run-on deal has never been an issue [now that instantly solves the problem ].

KidEpoxy

I recall having to hold the kill like 4 seconds after one norvie stopped to get the other to die on my twin.... it did eventually.
I consider that a feature, "So dependable- You can't flameout even when you try". Better than the opposite, random death

Bipe Flyer

Try removing the throttle stop screw.

dieFluggeister

When I got mine I had the same problem and I found that even though the throttle was against the stop screw (and adjusted to the lowest part of the cam) the barrel was still not closing all the way.

I removed the needle and the retainer nut on the throttle arm assembly, and the idle stop screw and rotated the throttle arm slightly more toward the 'faster' position, then re-tightened the nut. This way, the barrel closed further in the 'stop' position. I inserted the blunt end of a drill bit of the EXACT size, into the throat of the throttle to hold the barrel while removing and tightening the nut. Be very careful though not to damage the thin edges of the barrel in any way. I remember it was pretty tight. The fit must be exact or it will damage the barrel. Perhaps you could use a wire with a piece of fuel tubing slipped over it, or a wooden dowel....

This problem seems common to the 074. Many guys just remove the stop screw like Bipe said, but I like to have it to adjust my low idle.

My the same engine also had a tiny air leak around the screw that attaches the carb to the engine. A little automotive high temp gasket maker solved that problem. You may want to check that too by dribbling a little fuel around the carb seal, put your finger over the intake and turning the prop. Bubbles = leak.

eroc144

My Feedback: (1)

I'll echo DF's comments on being careful with the barrel. Not realizing how easily damaged this area is, I once used a pair pliers on the barrel when adjusting the throttle arm. Much to my amazement I was no longer able to get the barrel back into the carb at all and ended up with an entirely new carb assembly. Lessons learned the hard way tend to stick with you longer...

EG

Clean

Having the same problem on one of my bigger engines, turns out to be sucking air past the front bearing, solved the problem your way, I go up high and dive for about 5 seconds and the fuel pickup sticks up in the clear air killing in the engine!

KidEpoxy

Clean- some JB weld around the front bearing & shaft will make it so it will never run on again.... never run again either, but hey, cake & eat it too, right, can't make an omlett without breaking a few eggs.

finishman2000

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks guys for the tips. My club is next to a Nation Guartd unit and a State Police unit that sometimes has their heli come and visit. When that happens we have to put down right away otherwise I wouldn't be worrying about this. I may just file a flat spot on the stop screw to give me a little more close. I will pull the screen off the barrel to see how close is it to closed. Thanks again, Cas

Jimbob-RCU

Hi,
Mine did the same thing. Fast idle. but it ran very well.
I solved the problem by taking it off the motor mount and putting a brushless moton on and a 3 cell lipoly pack.
Flies just as well and always shuts down. Cleaner too.

jim

Bipe Flyer

If you remove the screw you can use the radio to set the endpoint.


A bru$hle$$ is just throwing money at the problem.