small_rcer

I always had problems with the Cox wrenches, in getting a tight cylinder off the crankcase. I tried a big adjustable wrench on the flats of the top fin with predictable results. Attached are some photos showing my solution. Take a dead glow head. File flats on the sides to match the flats on the cylinder. Screw it in all the way and back it out so the flats line up. Put the big wrench on, and come on to it.

What do others do?

Andrew

Very nice solution to avoid distorting the cylinder at the top end.

Thanks

Bipe Flyer

I put the crankcase in a vise and crank the cylinder off with a pair of pliers.[:@]

Seriously though, I put the head on finger tight and that prevents the Cox wrench from slipping up off the top of the cylinder. I like your idea, as it will probably save on a lot of wear and tear over time.

gcb

Great idea.

If you have Cox engines from before the flats were cut on the upper cylinder you would use the exhaust slots with matching wrenches. Make sure you have the CORRECT wrenches for this.

I think there are also some with the narrow slots or ones with wire mesh that neither process will work. For these you need to make your own flats or drill a piece of wood to the appropriate cylinder size, cut the wood in half, then use it as a jig in a clamp.

George

Remby

My Feedback: (3)

A good solution !

I even have a cylinder from a Cox that has no flats on the top, that is also a slit exhaust. Only way to remove is to reach for the pliers.

This must have been a slip up during the move from Santa Ana to Corona..

Andrew

Remby --

Using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and a little care, you can add flats to the cylinder and head. Just be sure to clean thoroughly to remove the generated grit.

Remby

My Feedback: (3)

ANDREW;

That will work, thanks for the idea. It is a older one, and not being used right now. But, the flats would make it more user friendly and will keep it in mind.

Thx!

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

I've got a small [link=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OWBG8/qid=1150305445/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/103-9597238-2079046?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013]grip wrench[/link] that works unless it's really locked up. (then the vise, torch and various other tools come into play)

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I always heat the crankcase up over the stove first. That cold cooked castor oil works better than any epoxy. Then if I am trying to save the black finish or not put dents in it, I'll take a heavy ziploc freezer bag and put that around the wrench. They fit loose enough to still have clearance to fit the wrench, and it helps to keep things from getting marked up also.

Heating it up to where its hot to the touch and then just letting the heat soak into it till its managable by bare hands again, and then using a factory wrench on it with the ziploc usually gives me perfect results without too much knuckle busting.

DO NOT get it so hot it melts the plastic carb housing, just bring it past the finger sensor and you'll still be OK