skaliwag

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What to cover my latest with? Not dope and tissue. I would like to colour it white with black crosses.
Doculam works for me. How do you "paint" the stuff? Any other ideas?

DICKEYBIRD

Looks great Steve. I guess now that you're an internet sales tycoon and Cox magnate, you have more time to build neat little models!

Doculam can be spray painted on the backside and will still adhere fine. That's the most fuel proof method but I worry about weight buildup when enough paint is applied to make it opaque. I'd weigh a test piece, spray on the paint and weigh it when it's dry before making a decision. Solite might be what you want.

flyinrog

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I think if I'd scratched that, I would want a transparent film to show off the stick work...ulatracote is nice stuff...purple and add a white stripe with a cross in it...Rog

BMatthews

Tissue and dope is still one of, if not the most, light of all the methods. Especially if you want a fancy color scheme.

Outside of that I'd suggest one of the newer ultralight parkflyer films. If you need fuel proof paint than all bets are off since there's not much besides butyrate dope that is fuel proof. Or if you use non fuel proof paints along with some form of top sealing coat then it all gets heavy again.

indoorff

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A number of the ultra-light parkflyer plastic films are not fuel proof, be sure to check first. As far as fuel proof paint, my brother and I always use Tremclad, we have NEVER had it get attacked yet, even after years on a model. (excluding Tremclad clear, it is anything BUT fuelproof).

Chris

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

What's the US version of Tremclad?

I have used the Nelson paints with GREAT success. I love it and will be ordering more colors very soon. It adheres to doculam if you use a green scrub pad first. The best thing about it is the fact that it weighs next to nothing. Well, the black did. White will weigh more, but hey twice as much as nothing is still nothing...
Did I mention it's water based and doesn't put out toxic fumes! Overspray is dry before it hits the floor. Don't forget the crosslinker to make it fuelproof.

indoorff

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I have no idea - I always assumed it was US. Anybody else know?

Chris

skaliwag

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The Eindecker broke the bonds of gravity today.....6 flights.
9.30am PDT.. cloudy/ overcast (Fog) No wind. Not really perfect as I don't have good depth precipitation in the gray.
Sig 25%.. beat up old Focus 4 Hitec 50's Gws Rx, 250Lipo with 6v regulator.

First flight quite a handfull, tooooooo much throw. Next four getting better each time. The first five were on the backplate tank then flight #6 was on internal. 11 cc will last a while for the .010 with throttle. I even got a touch and go on the school base ball infield... what a blast little airplanes are.

To recap how this thread started....
I ended up dusting the glue side of Doclam with Krylon.

DICKEYBIRD

Nifty looking little plane there Steve. Very clean, neat....ya done good! I'll bet it was big fun buzzing around at 1/2 throttle or so doing circuits around the field. Only thing it needs is a windshield and a little pilot with goggles, a spiky helmet and a scarf blowing in the breeze.

DICKEYBIRD

2nd thought: What the heck is that thing you have on over your shirt? A sweatshirt? Geez, you'd lose 15 pounds a day wearing that in these parts!

skaliwag

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Thanks DB.... It was D*****d cold here this morning in the fog by the Bay. I could use loosing 15# around the beer rib any way.
Iv'e been looking for one of those little men with a spikie hat everywhere... Can't seem to find one.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Right now, that makes me a little jealous. August is a time for hiding in the house around here. Although I've heard reports of high temps in other places, the humidity takes a 105 degree day and makes it a 115 degree heat index. At 100% humidity, that means you condensate like a tea glass just walking outside.

Skaliwag, it turned out very nice! We gonna see some kits anytime soon?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

WOW!! Very, very nice. It is always great to see the way that new and old can come together. What I mean is the covering technique, which has got to be many times tougher than tissue, done on such a classy old airframe. I am going to try it with that floral spray dye that Raymond talks about, I think it would end up being semi transparent, though. I hope you get a lot of fun out of your plane, super looking job. It looks about right for that Johnson 250 electric racing we are trying to get started here.

rainedave

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Very classy. The white and black gives it a very clean look as DB said.

skaliwag

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Thanks for the complements all .........

Answers to PT and CP....

I am thinking of doing a small kit run on it but with all my airplanes that I design of late I like to do an electric version also.
So you think the Johnson 250 is the ticket? PT Sent me some 180 size I was going to play with.
The specs are ...

AUW 6.4oz. Span 21. MAC 5. 105 sq ins. Wing Load 9oz Sq ft.
It could be built a lot lighter second time around.

This model ( that I need a Germanic name for that starts with an "S") is a scaled down version of another one of the next size up... with a TD .020. I've had this one for a while so it doesn't have an electric sister, and its begining to show its age.

Have you set the ultimate specs and regs on the Great North West Race yet?

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Nce Eindecker(s)! That design just looks 'right'.

I've never tried Krylon on the glue side of laminating film but I can vouch for the fact that some Rustoleum colors carry more solids than others. This made the glue harder to activate but still worked when heated then pressed down with a rag. After burning my fingers (wrist, arm, elbow - I'm not good with hot tools) - that's when I decided to try the floral sprays. These have no effect on the glue or heat required and therefore cause me less physical pain.

Besides I'm getting to where I really like that semi-transparent look - and if you were to take a few minutes with a magic marker to color the edge of ribs, stringers, etc. you can get an effect ranging from subtle (like rib stitching or shadows) to dramatic (like red under yellow) to give your finished structures a little more "dash" (that's my middle name by the way - or is it "hyphen"). Oh, don't forget crayons.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Skaliwag, in the great tradition of the great northwest, have have no rules, other than J250 motor and GWS 4025 prop. The rest is up to you! The J250 feels pretty heavy in my hand, it puts out less power than an .020 TD, according to bipeflyer, and it weighs more than I expected. I figure it will need a plane with some wing area to be a good flying power plant.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

What Rpm does it turn the Gws 4025 on a 2 or 3 cell lipo?

combatpigg

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I don't remember, but I forgot to tell you that we made 2 cell packs a rule, any ampacity or discharge rate you desire, but just 7.4 volts.

Bipe Flyer

Piggy,

I think we should go with the Hobbico props. The GWS props are pretty crappy and break if you look at them the wrong way.

The motors are heavy, but the rest of the power system is very light. We've flown them from 24" span at 6.8oz to 32" span at 13oz.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Bipe, NOW you tell us.........I'll have to pick some up then. The GWS props must go half way decent, based on what I've read, so I'll use them till they're gone. I told the owner of the LHS about this racing idea and he says he wants in on it. Once the Bladder Grabber is over, I'll draw up a recruitment poster for the message board at the LHS. I would think a 24 inch span, 7 oz plane is a good starting point, sounds like you could get pretty close to 1:1 with this set up.

D Bronk

Still need a Name??

skaliwag

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We have a tentative name of "Schulter Flugel" But are still open to suggestions

combatpigg

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Skaliwag, I don't know about the planes' name, but the pilots' name could be BARON VON HOSENCRAPPEN.

skaliwag

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Agh.. Zo you know Za BARON... I found him under za Christmas tree... Wery drunken on Schnapps.