Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
08-17-2006, 07:41 PM
#1
Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
Hi All and TW,
Tim Wilst, made the following observation in another post,
"I had ordered head gaskets and BW tank venturi o-rings straight from Cox last year for around .25cent each."
I was wondering if and what you all do for an alternative or substitute for the O ring? I have several BW engines and have not been able to find a decent replacement. At some point in time Cox will be out of these parts and I'm looking for a viable alternitive. My efforts with silicone have not worked at all. Any suggestions?
Thanks as always,
Darren
Tim Wilst, made the following observation in another post,
"I had ordered head gaskets and BW tank venturi o-rings straight from Cox last year for around .25cent each."
I was wondering if and what you all do for an alternative or substitute for the O ring? I have several BW engines and have not been able to find a decent replacement. At some point in time Cox will be out of these parts and I'm looking for a viable alternitive. My efforts with silicone have not worked at all. Any suggestions?
Thanks as always,
Darren
08-17-2006, 08:17 PM
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RE: Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
Darren,
Well making them out of small/medium fuel line is what I have done when I don't have any of the real ones on hand. Maybe take a look at smallparts.com
LAter,
Tim
Well making them out of small/medium fuel line is what I have done when I don't have any of the real ones on hand. Maybe take a look at smallparts.com
LAter,
Tim
08-18-2006, 11:44 AM
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RE: Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
I have had some trouble with the o-ring in a golden bee tank. It seems that the fit of the metal parts is much closer than on some engines. I have had difficulty making a gasket from fuel line. For me they have either come out too thick or too crooked. I tried using number 2 gasket sealer but the fuel washed it away. I then tried blue rtv. I assembled the engine and let it cure for a few days before fueling it up. So far it has held up for three or four tankfulls with no problem. I read recently that some people make the gaskets from wide rubber bands of the right thickness.
08-18-2006, 01:22 PM
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RE: Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
OK, Don't Laugh But.... I have used the small rubber bands the orthodontist gave my Daughter for here braces. I have used these on 3 engines now and also use them for my clamps for my bladders tanks. Work great!!
Bob Harris
Bob Harris
08-18-2006, 02:23 PM
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RE: Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
I've always just sliced a piece of fuel line and used that. Don't push down with the knife, slide it back and forth and you'll have more success slicing it thin.
Bob, you better stop that or your kid will have crooked teeth and your wallet will be empty...[sm=wink_smile.gif]
Bob, you better stop that or your kid will have crooked teeth and your wallet will be empty...[sm=wink_smile.gif]
08-18-2006, 04:20 PM
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RE: Cox BW Venturi "O" ring Attention T.W.
From Smallnet post 347 many years ago...
Dave Fritzke < [email protected] > made a discovery:
I went to the field yesterday and brought my Champion 45L (Double ouch, a .50 sized plane and an ARF to boot!) and my Pee Wee- powered "Micro Vagabond" three-channel plane.
I had lots of trouble getting the Pee Wee to run, so I took it apart when I got home and decided the culprit was the raggy little black rubber gasket that seals the backplate to the fuel tube. Needing a replacement, I decided I should be able to slice off a bit of fuel tubing and use that.
I looked in the box of fuel tubing scraps, and found a piece of translucent yellow "Tygon" that had the right inner diameter. I first tried to cut a slice with an X-Acto knife; no way! It was impossible to get a slice thin enough AND a consistent thickness, even with a brand new scalpel blade. I thought, "If I could just shave off a slice with a razor plane..."
So I found a 2" chunk of brass tubing that was a snug fit around the Tygon, and let the Tygon protrude from the end of the brass tubing; and used the end of the brass tube to guide the blade. I then pushed the Tygon out of the brass tube about the thickness of a sheet of paper and made another cut.
It took about 10 attempts, but I got one that was thin enough and a consistent thickness. I found that you need a really sharp blade, a good smooth end on the brass tube, and a little lube (I used Teflon spray) on the knife blade to help it "glide" through the Tygon tubing.
Also, hold the blade at about a 30 degree angle to the face of the brass tubing.
I put the engine back together and got a good solid run, so I think it was a good fix. Have any of you found a source for these little gaskets (I know they come in the overhaul kits, but it's hard to get them for the PeeWee) or a good substitute? Does RTV or "Goop" work?
Dave Fritzke
...Dagnab but that's clever, Dave! I tried the freehand method myself several times, and failed miserably. You have brought a new ray of sunshine into the lives of us Pee Wee-powered flyers!
Dave Fritzke < [email protected] > made a discovery:
I went to the field yesterday and brought my Champion 45L (Double ouch, a .50 sized plane and an ARF to boot!) and my Pee Wee- powered "Micro Vagabond" three-channel plane.
I had lots of trouble getting the Pee Wee to run, so I took it apart when I got home and decided the culprit was the raggy little black rubber gasket that seals the backplate to the fuel tube. Needing a replacement, I decided I should be able to slice off a bit of fuel tubing and use that.
I looked in the box of fuel tubing scraps, and found a piece of translucent yellow "Tygon" that had the right inner diameter. I first tried to cut a slice with an X-Acto knife; no way! It was impossible to get a slice thin enough AND a consistent thickness, even with a brand new scalpel blade. I thought, "If I could just shave off a slice with a razor plane..."
So I found a 2" chunk of brass tubing that was a snug fit around the Tygon, and let the Tygon protrude from the end of the brass tubing; and used the end of the brass tube to guide the blade. I then pushed the Tygon out of the brass tube about the thickness of a sheet of paper and made another cut.
It took about 10 attempts, but I got one that was thin enough and a consistent thickness. I found that you need a really sharp blade, a good smooth end on the brass tube, and a little lube (I used Teflon spray) on the knife blade to help it "glide" through the Tygon tubing.
Also, hold the blade at about a 30 degree angle to the face of the brass tubing.
I put the engine back together and got a good solid run, so I think it was a good fix. Have any of you found a source for these little gaskets (I know they come in the overhaul kits, but it's hard to get them for the PeeWee) or a good substitute? Does RTV or "Goop" work?
Dave Fritzke
...Dagnab but that's clever, Dave! I tried the freehand method myself several times, and failed miserably. You have brought a new ray of sunshine into the lives of us Pee Wee-powered flyers!
