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OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

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OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

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Old 09-26-2006, 06:44 PM
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Clean
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Default OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

I ordered the above from Virginia Hobby sport Friday and they got in Yesterday. I hadn't had a chance to do much more and look over the hollow logs but I did mount up the Cub. I orderd the Delux version of the Cub which came with the aluminum starter spinner that is a real hoot. Wrap a small cord around it for about 10 wraps, prime, hook up the plug and give it a quick pull, brapppppp!!!! Coolness. I did read on this board to put a taper on the Needle so after the first couple of runs I chucked it up in my drill press and took a fine file to it, did make it easier to run.

Soooooo, anything else to do on the Cub?

Tried to pick up some SIG dope at the local hobby shops, none available though. I do go to Topeka every other weekend except this time I'm headed towards Open house at my sons college. So I'll work on filling and sanding as much of the parts as I can till I get there for color. I think the models are just cute as a bug and don't know if they'll be flown, but it wouldn't hurt that they could be.

I bought a couple extra of those spinners, wonder how they work on Product engines?
Old 09-27-2006, 02:33 AM
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chevy43
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

I went on that site but could not see what you are talking about. I didn't see the Cub engiene but I'd like to see the pull start system. I didn't see the SE5A either..... Give us a link please.
Old 09-27-2006, 07:10 AM
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Clean
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

I was wrong, I opened the sealed plastic OK boxes and it's a little drum not the spinner, guess I'd have to go to the OK site and order the spinners from there. The spool works, put it on a black widow last night, it's just that instead of a spinner that is only a little bigger than the Cox Teedee spinner you've got this quarter size disk right in front of the prop. Still only costs 90 cents from [link=http://beseenontheinternet.com/VAHS//engines_and_engine_accessories.htm]Virgina HobbySport Engines Tab[/link] where you can find it down the page just under K+B engines and above the Norvel ones. If you look under kits and 1/2A tab on the left of the page, you'll find their listing of kits under the [link=http://beseenontheinternet.com/VAHS//Black%20Hawk%20Models.htm]Black Hawk Models Tab[/link]. The engines you can find under the Engine tab. And www.BlackHawkModels.com has a real nice website that you can find all this stuff on where they list the spinner as around three and a half bucks halfway down the page on the [link=http://www.blackhawkmodels.com/hardware.html]Hardware Link[/link]. They also have a full listing with pictures of all the Walt M. models that they are kitting now. The SE5A's wings and other balsa parts are laser cut. The Army Racer only has about 8 pieces, none of which needed laser cutting as far as i can tell. I drilled and mounted the firewall on the Racer last night and glued the elevator together. Tonight, ifn I get a chance, there'll be a period of filling and sanding and smoothing. They use the trap the landing gear under the backplate method of mounting the gear, I may saw the firewall back off and trap the bear behind the firewall with some doublers just to clean stuff up. Don't like the idea of trapping the gear with the plastic backplate, that just breaks ears off the backplate.

I also put 2-56 tnuts on the firewall to mount the engine but on several models I've used inner nyrod drilled and glued in then used selftapping 2-56 screws. Those haven't pulled loose on the planes I used them on and make a really clean setup without the cost or weight of tnuts. Thinkin that might be another reason to saw of the nose and do it right. Sure, guilding the lilly, but what the heck.
Old 09-27-2006, 10:02 AM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

Trap the gear between another firewall and the original. Can't hurt. I agree with you re the breaking the ears/mounting lugs off. Dumb construction idea.

I wish someone would take over the OK cub name and produce consistent engines, when they are good they can be very good, when they're bad you don't want em. Besides, they're cute engines.


And of course, now I want to build an army racer. Damn you Mr Clean.


Luke.
Old 09-27-2006, 11:12 AM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

Addictive little Musciano things, wanna build em all and have them sittin on the desk/hang em from the ceiling/sit in the corner and make engine noises while a fly em.

Mostly, I blame my wife.
Old 09-27-2006, 11:55 PM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

Clean:

One of the Things we do here in the Valley is fly freeflight models. This may be insane elsewhere but here it works with all the grass fields. One of the events we fly is Early NOS 1/2a. This requires an early 1/2a engine. K&B, Spitfire, Wen-Mac or OK Cub that sort of thing. I had a couple of Cubs and was getting about 16k out of them on 40% nitro but I noticed one of them had a burr just above the Needle Valve.

So, I punched out the Needle Valve housing which broke a chip out of the crank-case by the Needle Valve assembly. I could have JB Welded the thing but it was a fairly new engine and I wanted it cherry, more or less.

I was at a swap meet/show and a associte had a used case for $2.00. So, the guts went into the new used case. The engine turns 18k on 40% nitro. All else is the same except the case (and case clearences). It's good to have an eighteen thousand RPM Cub. Those early models don't stand a chance.

I'm not telling you to lap the case/crank for a few ten tousands clearance. That would void your warranty. No not at all, just relaying this heart warming story. But if it were mine I'd lap the case/crank a little bit in hopes of more RPM.

I have one of the little starting pullys mentioned and they work, it just takes 12" or so of string and
hang-on. I've also got one of the recoil starter engines and those are really cute.

HTH - Steve B.

This was with a black Tornado 5-3 prop, I've used a 6-2 apc to slow it down. Over power planes have a certain look to them just before they re-kit themselves.

Old 09-28-2006, 10:31 AM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

Old 09-28-2006, 10:43 AM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

I'm about to send an order to Walt M for a pile of his 1/2A CL plans, I have been intending to for some time . My problem is I don't want to hassle the poor guy, he has a lot on his plate at the moment. His wife is an invalid who requires a lot of care and he is currently trying to finish yet another book, and he is 84.

I would guess Walt's stuff never won stunt comps but they sure are cute. I think I will simply send the order and tell him to send when he can. But I really want a WAM army racer, regardless.

Luke S.
Old 09-28-2006, 12:16 PM
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Default RE: OK Cub and W Musciano Army Racer/SE5A

He does have a rather long list of planes. I'd like to see a compilation with photos of them like on the BlackHawkModels site. BlackHawk does have a great site, plane, pictures and a little rightup of each, but only of the ones they produce. Can't fault em with that but I'd still like more pictures.

I cut the firewall back off after one of my Tnuts didn't clean out right. I put these on, fill em with a little candle wax rubbed in and then epoxy the firewall on. For some reason I didn't get enough wax in the threads and needed to clean it out with a 2x56 inch tap. That normally fixes the problem unless you do something like run the 2.5 mm tap in, D'OTH! So I took it back off, copied it twice and cut the second one to allow for the landing gear to be inset. Sanded that down till it was landing gear wire thick and then reglued the firewall on, sanded it smooth and filled any gaps and the excess room in the firewall inset with microballoons. The engine will still hold the gear on, but it is just there to trap it. Tonight, if I get a chance, it's the night to get all the parts to shape and all the square parts round and then the first coat of thinned dope. Gonna use the nyrod to hold the motor on, that's worked really well on 3 planes that I've used it on and is darn near free.

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