novielo

hi everyone, a friend gave me these 2 engines. i think they are, black one's a cox black widow and the silver one a texaco.
could this be right?

also what are these 2 tube for? the air intake seems to be at the rear of the engine. is there for fueling and the other to prime or choke?

and last question, i'll have to free them up 'cause they are gummed solid. is there any dissasembly plan available? is it realy hard and or touchy to open these to clean them out??

thanks alot for your help

martin

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Martin, to free up the engines, I drop some WD-40 in the top, wait a couple of minutes, the just disassemble them. Take the off the head, cylinder, tank, piston, prop driver and finally the crank. Disassemble the needle valve and reed. Put goop hand cleaner all over the parts, then wash them off in hot tap water and scrub with a toothbrush. I never use any solvents or hot antifreeze, etc. Reassemble dry and put a few drops castor/alcohol in the the crankcase and head. (just a few drops!) Turn it over by hand a few times and go use it! Done right, the varnish will even be gone, but if there's a little left, don't worry about it. It's not service effecting.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Oh yeah, how many bypass ports does the first one have? One bypass should mean a Babe w/8cc tank or Texaco, but I thought the Texaco had an anodized tank. Two ports may mean an unanodized Black Widow style engine. I have a few like this, but mine have the vents in the tank instead of the backplate.

heli_Rod

I used to have a Cox engine that had the 2 tubes in the backplate. It came on a plastic Cox Piper Super Cub control line airplane It was a baby Bee engine...many, many years ago. It also had the spring starter.

Rod

novielo

ptulmer, what's the bypass. the **** in the cylinder???

novielo

are these things...*****!!!??? sluots without the o

novielo

and the tubes.. are they for filling the thank, vent, choke???

thanks pt for your advice to clean it up

novielo

ptulmer, could i use my ultrasonic washer?? i can't use anything that is related to gas or solvent with it.

heli_Rod

That part I do know. The silver engine with the two tubes in the backplate..either is for fill or vent. The black engine..the tube on top is the fill and the tube on the bottom of the tank is the overfill/vent. Cox engines don't have a choke. You choked them by squirting small amounts of fuel directly into the exhaust ports.

Rod

hogflyer

Isn't the silver tanked one an old baby-bee? It looks like the one I have on my Mini-Mambo.

Hogflyer

Wayne C

Bypass ports are slots cut into the inside cylinder walls. You can check how many after the engine is taken apart. I have loosened up engines with WD-40. You may have to spray them down with it a few times over several hours if they are really stuck tight. In my opinion it is better to take time soaking the parts loose than to force them apart when they are stuck really tight. Once apart hot soapy water and an old tooth brush work good. Remember to oil them after they are clean. Puting them back together is the trick. When carefully taking them apart you will notice a gasket between the tank and the engine. Inside the tank there is a smaller gasket or o-ring. Also inside the tank is a short piece of fuel tubing. Air leaks at the gaskets or wrong positioning of te fuel tube can keep the engine from working. When you unscrew the head from the top of the cylinder you should find a thin round gasket or shim. Most of these engines need one or two of these shims to work well. When the tank seperates fron the cranckase you should find a thin flat object held in place by a special retainer. This thin flat object is called a reed. Some reeds are rectangle shape and others are star shaped. If the reed is bent or lost you have a problem. Maybe some one has pictures that they can share.

If the engines are not stuck really tight you can try just soaking them loose with glow fuel and not taking them apart. Sometimes they will loosen up and run without much work.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

That would be a word that is descriptive of my favorite type of woman... The slots you might be thinking of are seen on the outside and are the exhaust slots. The bypass port is actually the intake slot and is a recess in the cylinder that starts at the base and can be seen on the inside. Like Wayne points out, it's easier to see once the engine is apart or at least moving. Two are more powerful than one, one uses less fuel than two. If you run them on a control line airplane, the 5cc Babe will run forever (trust me) and the 8cc would be great for an R/C plane that just flies around.

novielo

i just disassemble the black engine to clean it. it turns freely. it's now in the ultrasonic bath.

how do i put the crank shaft as well as the piston out of the crank case??is there a special tool for this job??

rszanti

Martin

You also should check out [link=http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm]http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm [/link] for a LOT of info on Cox engines (click on the "Bees" tab for your engines). Not only does this site make it easy for you to identify the engine you have, it also provides a lot more - such as instructions on how to start a Cox engine such as you have (look under the "Documents" tab).

And if it's not clear, the two tubes on top of the tank simply provide access to the inside of the tank for filling. You inject fuel in one of the tubes until the fuel comes out the other - you now have a full tank. Surface tension and the small tube diameters keep the fuel from leaking out when the engine is upside down.

If you remove the tank, you should know that inside (between the tank and the engine crankcase) is a "reed" valve - a small piece of thin metal that acts as the intake valve. It's held in place with a small circular wire ring. If it's creased or otherwise damaged it will need to be replaced. The newer engines have a plastic piece instead of the metal and it's not so easily damaged. There is a paper gasket between the tank and the engine crankcase - it should seal good to prevent air leakage into the crankcase.

To remove the crankcase, I believe it must be pressed out of the front retention washer - probably not a good idea unless absolutely necessary. If you get the engine to free up, I doubt you'll need to do this anyway.

Richard

rszanti

Martin

If it helps, here's a few pics of an engine in need of the same cleaning you're doing.

Richard

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

The crank can be pressed out by putting a spare prop screw in it and popping it with a hammer a few times. Just make sure you put the screw in as far as possible.

novielo

thanks pt, it worked perfectly.

when i dissasemble the engine i saw that there<s 2 ports on the silver one and 1 on the black one... does this help for identification of these engine?

are they better then a surestart, beside the intergrated thank?

novielo

gorgot to say that on the silver one. the bottom of the piston is making a gap with the lower and of the exaust. i think like the spi mod some of you are doing. maybe it can help to identify them.

Clean

Perhaps it's a babe bee front end with the extender tank option and a Teedee piston/cylinder set. I have a couple of frankenstein motors and they work purty nice.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Swap the piston/cylinder sets and you'll have a real two-port Black Widow and a real single port Babe. The more recent Black Widow cylinders were the same as the SS's as far as I know.

novielo

ptulmer, i found out that both glow head where dead. what cause the death of a glo plug?

since they are dead can i use the ss glow head without any risk of breaking the head of the other cylinder?
could it be a good idea to get a diesel head, does it worth it?

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Age, voltage, etc are all causes for glow head death. The SS heads are low compression heads, but they do work. Expect about a 2k-2.5k rpm loss over the high comp heads.

I don't know much about dieselizing a Cox, but it seems like everybody that has tried it ends up shearing the crank pin off.

Wanna save some dough and gain performance? Stop with the Cox heads and get a Galbreath head and some nelson plugs from www.kittingittogether.com

novielo

thanks for the tip on diesel cox. the link you sent me is not working. does it happens often? it says i'm not alowed to see this page...

novielo

so i could use, if they wheren't dead, a head from a black widow or babe could fit on a ss and get more power from that enigine?

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Compare the volume of the head. The smaller the cup, the more the power. That's Larry Driskell's site, not sure why it's down, but he had a lot of cool stuff!