Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Oh wily elders of the venerable 1/2A (and under) forum, I seek permission to tap into your vast store of wisdom? . . .(a pause to wait for permission) . . .

I can! Gee thanks guys.

I originally started to post this as a continuation of the starter discussion under Dave's Sure Shark thread. But that would have been, like, literary piracy and I was brought up with too much honor and dignity to stoop so low (besides every time I try, I get caught and people throw rocks at me).

Anyway, here's my story. When the switch on my Miller starter became eratic I buggered it to stay on and wired in a small push-on, push off switch in the power line. That worked OK except that there were many times when I would forget to push 'off' and after a flight I would come back to find the starter merrily spinning and the battery pack getting low.

So, before I sent the starter back for repair, I started thinking of other ways to use starter as-is AND promote a little safety at the same time. This was probably inspired by someone's magazine article that used a 'rocking/hinged' mechanism to activate the starter motor. This didn't appeal to me but I got to wondering if an adaptation of the old FF, foot activated, start behind the engine rig couldn't be used.

Finally my question, oh wise ones; what the heck did they use for a switch?

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Raymond I have seen free flight starters where the starter was held in a devise that allowed it to be pushed back against a spring like the ones inside D-cell flashlights. They simply pressed the plane against the starter cone and this pushed the starter backwards. Inside the holder was a cam or something that depressed the button as it moved back. It would be easy to do this with the Miller, more elaborate with the irregular shepe of the Sullivan.

SGC

Raymond , an old style horn button , or in the floor car start switch , auto shops still sell these.
Stewart

Mr67Stang

This is refered to as a momentary switch. You can find them at most auto parts stores and Radio Shack.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Dave,

The kind that you have to push against is the kind I don't like. The cone on the Miller starters is particularly suited to light push-pressure against a spinner nut and I like that.

Stewart,

I looked for that kind of old-timey horn button at Pep Boys and Auto Zone (here in the other colony). I didn't find one - nothing even close. But I guess you still need them 'down there' to keep the 'roos out of the road. Haaaaw.

SGC

Ye an old style horn button's are designed to drive claxon n similar heavy draw horns, wereas most radio shack n similar are low current types, would need a relay added into circuite.
Stewart
Raymond try a better auto supply shop , i work part time in my local small town auto parts store n we have them

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Ray, A sewing machine foot switch might be what you are looking for? I would just get a micro paddle switch from radio shack and attach it to the case of your starter and call it good. Just make sure the switch contacts are rated for the full load current when the starter is engaged. Do you really want to add more stuff to bring out, unravel, and then wind back up at the end of the day? When all the other guys have a half beer head start on you? I think not..............
You wouldn't go rabbit shootin' with a bazooka, by the time some elaborate starter contraption was rigged to kick these .190 HP engines over, much airplane building and flying could have already commenced, both cars in the driveway could have been washed and waxed and you could have flossed all your teeth twice.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Raul me amigo,, home depot......doorbell

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

I looked at the smallish switches at the Shack and the aforementioned auto parts stores and they were too small/delicate - but mostly in physical size. I want something that I can tromp on and not have trouble finding in the grass at my feet.

The sewing machine switch might be the bees knees.

But yes, it would be another thing to lug to the field. On the other hand that's why I drive a minivan. I already haul a variety of tool carts and boxes (glow, electric, diesel, 1/2A, combat, batteries, and transmitters) so one more item - for the sake of safety you recall - is a small price to pay.

I would also use this for the full size starter. FWIW I would just velcor (TM) the starters to a portable table I also carry about.

Bipe Flyer

My firt thought was an old style high beam foot switch from a car, but what about a guitar foot pedal?

digital_trucker

Sayyy...I just had a thought. Have a pulley-like doodad machined for the hub. Wind a string around it and hook the end to a stake in the ground. When you run forward to launch it the string would unwind and start the engine. Best part is that you'd be guaranteed to keep your fingers behind the prop!

What am I saying? He ain't gonna run NOWHERE....


The doorbell switch sounds like a heckuva good solution to me, they're available pretty much everywhere.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Hey DT,

Wellll excuuuuse me! How do you know that I couldn't run long enough to start a 1/2A engine? It doesn't matter that they're right, I just wanna know who finked on me.

Besides the pulley would have to be on a double helix compound swivel in order for the plane to be held nose-forward. So there.

digital_trucker

Ray, I NEVER kiss and tell. The pulley on the hub don't need to be that fancy, just put another pulley on your belt buckle (watch out for rope burns, though).




...this is starting to get silly - I may have watched wayyy too much Monty Python and MST3K [&:]

SGC

Here with this latest style NO batteies or switchs are needed.
Stewart

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

"I'm a lumber jack and I'm OK,
I sleep all night and I works all day
.
.
I wear suspendies and a bra-r"


Ah I miss the classics AND a pulley on my belt would be dangerous because I can't see my belt anymore.

FWIW I had one of them thar ELF wind-up spring starters. I hope the Graupner offering is more effective.

Yuu

Ray- get back to the door bell button. I use an electric plane motor wired to six batteries and taped together w/ electrical tape; and a doorbell button...5/8" dia right at the end of my thumb. I grab the starter in my mitt...fingers around the batteries and motor, poke the spinner and straighten my thumb [which elongs my thumb which pushes the doorbell button] and turns the engine. All wrapped up in nice, black electrican's tape. Pretty, too!! Please don't ask for a picture....

Yuu

Brain Fert.... Rainedave was talking about a starter hook-up...I think fromAMA mag...on the end of this guy's flight box. The guy made a 6" x 6" x 6" triangle, bolted loosely at the top to the flight box. The starter was attached horizontally to the triangle, the starter cone hung about an inch beyond the edge of the flight box, and a spring pulled the starter toward you until the plywood triangle hit a stop plug. The starter and triangle rocked backwards 3/4" or so when the plane's spinner was pushed into the starter cone. Then the plywood triangle had a pin or knob which pushed the switch and turned the starter on, which spun the spinner. The whole thing was made up so the guy didn't have to have only one hand on the plane when he started it. Hold the plane with both hands, push, it starts, you pull away, the spring pulls the plywood back to the front original position, and the starter shuts off. Granted, this was designed for .40 size planes. I know a guy who had a bad experience with a .60 size while starting it on the ground, one hand holding the plane......those APC's are SHARP !!

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Here's my ball of electrical tape.......[:-]

sp280-350 brushed motor in a MPjet gearbox and a helecopter landing gear bushing.

Yuu

RocketRob...that's real close to what I have! Except mine has the battery taped to the motor and the wires all wound up and under tape...except the plug. Plug to motor to start; plug to charger to charge. It makes a lump about the size on a nice coffee cup. What is that blue thing on the front? I used a plastic plumbing end cap and worked down a Pink Pearl eraser to fit inside the cap, then ground a cone in it to match the TD spinners I have on most my .049 engines. (must admit your's is prettier!)

chevy43

http://cgi.ebay.com/Forklift-Horn-Bu...QQcmdZViewItem

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Good grief! You can get anything on the 'bay.

I have been slowly going through some old magazines and one of the hints and tips pages had an entry for a modification to a spinner that was supposed to allow you to wrap a string around it to make a pull-type starting action. I'm not tempted to try it. I think I'll stick with trying to find a sewing machine foot switch (cheap) or fall-back to my previous push-on, push-off switch solution.

But thanks to all who contributed . . . positive . . . comments. As for some others, I may have to go back into deep psychological therapy to deal with the less than complimentary "old" jokes. Heavy sigh.

treedog

Here ya go Ray.
http://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop...asp?itemid=419
Td

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Yuu,
I like your idea of a self-contained unit!
The blue bushing is a ThunderTiger helecopter landing gear skid/bushing (they are expensive but nice silicone rubber and the right size) Infact the bushing is the only parts I had to purchase - 4 for $19 at LHS, besides the switch. Thegear box and G10 plate came from an ARF which I upgraded to brushless and tossed in the "what can I do with this pile".
The bushings fit nicely on the collet propdriver and just glued it on with ruberized CA. It's stayed put thus far and stands up to the compression of small diesels.

digital_trucker

Aww, Ray....you know I only kid out of love don't ya?

Bipe Flyer

Here are a few foot pedals.
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-PHASE-INDUSTRI...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/YAMAHA-SUSTAIN-F...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Motor-w-foot-ped...QQcmdZViewItem