Mr67Stang

I know some of us have purchaces Sure Shark kits at the very generous offering from Rainedave. I got mine today while the wife was at work so I will let her believe that I have had this kit for a long time and am just now going to start the build. I feel we can use this thread, all of us SS builders to post our questions, tips, modifications and other findings here. I recently found out that I may not be going back to Iraq untill July so My hope is to get this plane together and fly it in the unlimited class of the CC races this May 5th. So in the venerable word of Larry the Cable Guy, it's time to "Git 'r Done".

rainedave

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Thanks, Mr67Stang.

I'll stay tuned to answer any questions. I've added templates for the top pieces.

pt40crasher

Mine is on the way. No final decision on the powerplant yet.

brocja01

Consider me subscribed!!! Mines on the way as well. Can't wait to get it started. My parents are coming down from WI so my Dad and I are going to work on it together. Can't Wait!

rainedave

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Well, I just found one small issue on the plans today.

I had to shorten the fuselage by 1/8" for the laser cutting to fit on 24" sheets (saved me money). And somehow, I overlooked this:

Former #3 needs to be installed 1/8" forward of the location shown on the plans. The former needs to clear the horizontal stab slot in the fuselage sides. Basically, the stab slot was moved forward 1/8" and the plans don't reflect that change. In other words, the front edge of the stab butts up against the back of former #3.

In the image the Red lines show the actual shape of the laser cut sides. The end of the fuselage simply got moved 1/8" forward to fit on the balsa sheets.

Mr67Stang

He Dave, I have the plans streatched out over my building board and starting to get my tools and supplies together. First question for you. The templates that I received from you for the top side indecate the use of 3/32 a grane balsa sheeting. Seems a bit thick to me is it really 3/32, or is that a typo?

rainedave

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I used 3/32" on both of mine. The reason is that I ended up sanding the seam along the top quite a bit and 1/16" would have been too thin. But, go with 1/16" if you want. I really don't think there's a noticeable weight difference.

A note about the fuselage construction:

The 3/16" top is actually a jig that ensures a straight and square build. It's just a jig that happens to become part of the plane (I borrowed this method from Joe Bridi's designs). It's the most ingenious method of fuselage construction I've ever come across in 40yrs. of building balsa models, so I used it for the SS.

Here are some photos of what I did last night:

brocja01

Where did the photos' go Dave?

rainedave

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I'll try again...

rainedave

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And a couple more...

pt40crasher

The postman just delivered mine! I'll get started tonight. Nicely packaged and protected by the way. Laser cutting looks great.

brocja01

pt40...

When did Dave send yours out? Just seeing if I can expect mine today or not.

rainedave

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All were mailed together.

I just weighed all of the wood components ready to cover, including the aileron torque rods and elevator pushrod. It all comes out to 3.75ozs. I may get this one under 10ozs AUW.

Mr67Stang

I just got back from my LHS with the shopping list of wood provided by Dave, thank you, and the wood ended up being about $24 but I also picked out some Hitech HS-65HB servos (w/carbonite gears), the torque rods, DB motor mount and a couple of props so the bill jumped from there Thanks for the pictures of how to put the Top Sides Sheeting together.

Is there anyone creative enough here to come up with a "Sure Shark" logo. I have a little graphics/sign shop down the road from me that could print them out on vynal for us with transfer tape. I was going to do something myself but thought I would test the waters and see if we could all agree on something for a uniform logo. It would of course have to pass Rainedave's aproval.

rainedave

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Yikes! You should order from Lone Star. It would have been less than $4 worth of balsa.[X(] But, that's not counting hardware, of course.

I have so much scrap sitting around I never bothered to add up the bill of materials. This is just what I keep under my building table. There's at least twice as much more packed away in boxes.

rainedave

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Here's a photo of the wing construction.

The 1/16" center sheeting is fitted between the middle spar and rear spar. The center ribs (#1) sit on top of it. The bottom front spar is added after you remove the panel from the board (unless you can crawl under the LE to glue it up in place). It's easier to add the false ribs after the two top spars are glued in place (they hold them in position). Don't forget that the false ribs have a top and bottom; they are not symmetrical. The LE won't fit right if they are upside down. Check them against the outline on the plans before gluing.

Don't omit the gussets. They actually add a lot of strength.

rv7driver

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hope mine gets here tomorrow, ready to get this puppy started!! dave it looks soooo gooood!!!! Pete

Mr67Stang

So, How do you think the flight charachtoristics would change with less or even no wing dihedral? I imagine the twitchy factor would rise but the self correcting/uprighting should go away. Kind of looking for a point and shoot effect as this wing is reminding me of the Sig Something Extra but thinner (aka faster).

digital_trucker

Actually, a slight bit of dihedral is good in a low-wing setup. Helps to counteract the pendulum effect. Just enough to prevent the droopy look usually suffices.

rainedave

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Keep the dihedral, or maybe use 3/4" per side. You will love the way it flies. Trust me. And you'll love even more, the way it glides deadstick (all my landings are deadstick). The dihedral does not effect the planes maneuverability at all. It goes where you point it and stays in whatever attitude you put it in.

digital_trucker

It sure sounds like it flies the same as my old US40 - probably of the same lineage, I'd wager.

rainedave

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d_t, there is a common lineage: the Kaos. The US series used a Kaos wing and tail moment with a new turtledeck/canopy design. The Sure Shark has a totally different wing, but a tail moment and tail surface areas based on the Kaos, which explains why it tracks so well.

Mr67Stang, the Somethin' Extra having a thick, symmetrical airfoil flies good without dihedral. The NACA 2412 - a semi-symmetrical airfoil - on the SS just seems to like having dihedral.

If you really want to build a symmetrical wing without dihedral I can send you the drawings for one that I actually built for the SS. Here're some photos of it. It has an 11% root (NACA 0011) and a 13% tip (NACA 0013). It lowers drag and weight and increases speed.

rainedave

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d_t, someone just started a thread on the US/Kaos. I wasn't aware of this until now, but the old Tower Kaos 60 kit actually came with the turtledeck formers to make it into an Ultra Sport:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5712730/tm.htm

pt40crasher

I got nothing accomplished. I had a dirty shop cleaning freakout which will probably last a day or two.[:@]

brocja01

Dave,

I got mine in the mail this morning. Very well packaged. I'm hoping that since the wife will be out of town this afternoon, me and the rugrat will head the LHS and pick up the rest of the balsa. I'm hoping to get most of the pieces cut out tonight after the kid goes to bed.

Maybe even start doing some glueing on the 1st half of the wing.

Thanks for the quick shipment. Where do you go through to get your lasering done? I have so many plans out there that I just don't have time to draw on wood and then cut out and then spend the time to fix my horrible cutting skills. @ $20 to $30 bucks for a small plane like this to have cut wouldn't be a problem with me.