marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Q) What model of .049 is this attached image?

Q) WHAT WILL IT TAKE in parts to hook up an external tank?

marwen1

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

It's the basic Product engine.. All you'll need connect to an External tank is a piece of 1/2A size fuel line.

digital_trucker

Looks like a production engine, used in Cox control line planes - basically the same as surestart except without the venturi snorkel. All you'll need is some small fuel tubing and a 1 or 2 ounce tank.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I have those items but for the life of me, I cant see where to plug the fuel line to.

I have anothe BABY BEE and the fill inlet is a (hah) prctically microscopic (LOL) tip. I think its tank holds about two - three minutes worth of run-time.

I have a variety of FORCE ONE Delta WINGS. Jokingly, about 2 years ago I made one that was exactly 1/2 size of the original 36.5" WS

When I got the BABY BEE, the prop fit exactly in the slot.

Locally, I could only find a 5 & 6 inch prop (tractor) but this DELTA requires PUSHER props.

I did find some last nite down in Texas but the thief wanted a small fortune in S & H.

I located a gentleman in mid CA this PM -- we talked for about 15 minutes and the rezt is history.

I have alrrady had him ship me three 5 - 3.5 PUSHERS plus a few std. glow plus

His required shipping to me here in mid CANADA was a whopping $3.00

Good stuff

Anyway, Q) I have the fuel line & a 2 oz Sullivan tank for the small DELTA

please, if you can elaborate a little, how do I hook them up?


marwen1

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Just look underneath the n/valve you will see a nipple.

digital_trucker

Yup, the fuel nipple should be on the bottom directly opposite the needle valve. The fuel line just runs from the fuel nipple to the tank pickup tube.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

We are salivating for a pic of your MFO (Medio Force One)

build light

Unless the nipple is gone for some reason. Then of course it would not be so obvious. This however is rarely a problem.
You should see this pic and it should help

Robert

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

OK -- I guess it would be better if I looked at things WITH my glasses on..
GOOD STUFF

Thanks

marwen1

build light

One last post This should be easy.

Robert

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

OK -- OK Unless you want me to break out all of my "soft-box" lighting gear and set up a seamless background, The shot of the FORCE ONE will have to wait till tomorrow when the sun is burning a nice bright 5500ËšK

Then, maybe, I can do it some justice

Right now, it is still in gthe balsa state and a start at the MONOKOTE. I put the elevons on last nite and the inside has the NYRODs in place but I haven't yet made up my mind completely if I want to go RC or control line with it.

The normal 36.5" WS hangs in ceiling of my workroom.

IN fact, I went out to the LHS and bought a feww sheets of 1/8" for the ribs of the 60WS version. On it, I will have a ROSSI .61 but it has been bored out to .81cc

I'll probably start a thread for it in the SCRATCH BUILD forum

marwen1

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

There is no need for a pusher prop if you are running a reed valve engine, it will run clockwise just fine.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

You know, I never thought of that!
I've always known that they WILL run backwards but ya just run into a train of thought and ya stick with what works

I'll give it a whirl in the AM

I am quite sure though that there is some very pertinate facts that we are not looking at thougth, if we do go in reverse.

It's funny, I know the "feel" that you should have when you crank up an engine, but with the placement of the powerplant in the rear and holding onto the nose, it just wanted to wander all over the place.

For some reason, I keep reading that 1/2A DELTAS like the FORCE ONE should be 20"WS

When I started this project 2 years ago I just cut all my numbers from the original plans in 1/2. I got it to a point and got involved with other projects.

Consequently, I ended up with a 5" slot -- not a 6"

I may have as many as three to four builds going on at the same time.

But one thing I always seem to overlook though, is the fact that the actual blade sits up higher than the 5" opening. I could probably run a 5.5" prop. Maybe even a 6"

EVERYONE talks about props having to be BALANCED! DO NOT PLAY WITH CUTTING THE TIPS OFF!,

That's fine if you don't know what you are doing. etc

Here's what ya do to get a perfect tip cutoff.

Install a router, upsidedown underneath a wooden work table.

Drill a simple little 1" hole prior to the mouting of it with a nice shrarp SPADE BIT

Place a STRAIGHT CARBIDE -- 1/4" BIT will do, in the chuck

DETERMINE the exact hole size of the center of the prop and place a hole about 1/2" deep into the working surface so that the blade will rotate on its own axis.

Q) HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT TO TRIM OFF?

You need to determine that!

NORMALLY, you will want to feed the prop blade against the rotation of the router bit, but if you do that, when you leave the back side of the cut, the blade will splinter.
HOLD THE BLADE BEING CUT OFF --FIRMLY and start to trim off the back side -- only enough to take away about a 1/8" of material. Now, lift the tip up away from the cutting edge and start in on the other side. Whe you get to the already trimmed piece, you'll be in GREAT shape -- with any splintering.

Take some black wet/dry 400 grit sandpaper and touch up the sharp edges and those deadly tips.

Do the very same steps whether the prop is wood or glass. If glass, go REALLY slow!

BON CHANCE!


marwen1

Yuu

Man, I shorten props with a pocket knife and sand paper. Spend your time on Airplanes, not cabinet making. Two cabinets, an old sheet of plywood, some ceiling tile, hang a light above, get a liquid refreshment, AND GET TO BUILDING !!

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I guess we all have our interests.

If all I am cutting down is a small 5" or 6" prop, then I guess you just might be right.

On the other hand, try doing that on a 12" - 16 - or even a 24" prop. It ain't gonna happen! I think the object of doing it the way I had layed out was to maintain as close to a true "balance" as possible.

On the other hand, being a journeyman cabinetmaker doing architechtural millwork for 20 years tends to make one a little annal.

While at the same time, I was also a professional photographer. I've only been doing that -- professionally though - since 1960.

I guess I'm still learning. GRAPHICS has a tendency to get in there somewhere.

But all in all, we all do what we do, because we have a love for this thing we call a "hobby"

Thank you for your viewpoint though.


marwen1

Yuu

It was not my intent to offend you. If you're a 20 year cabnet worker, then you can knock out a box in a few minutes. [Watch your mouth, Ray! ] But when I make a 6" box from 1x8, the four sides come out, line up, and the fourth edge is always a quarter inch off ! But I can butcher balsa and foam pretty good. And I don't have any props over 10", and, yes, I do balance 'em. You're right, each has his own method that works well for him.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Hah! LOL Making a SQUARE box is indeed a trick. a small trick -- depending on the thickness of the working stock, throw a small triangle of scrap into an area that requires a 90Ëš

It will almost always fall into square.

Hey, I see that you are interested in the CNC stuff

How far along with yiur knowledge of them

I have a real BASIC knowledge then it all falls off into the abyss. LOL

I have 3 -4 DREMELS -- in fact, I'm picking up a DREMEL JIGSAW later on tonite from a fellow RCer

I try to build all sizes of RC except the really BIG stuff. It gets a little rough doing that in a 2 BR apt.

In fact, I just printed out a FULL SIZE set of plans recently for a 60"WS FORCE ONE (DELTA)

It'll probably be a fairly long build so, I'll just log most of the buils - digitally and when I strt getting close to the end, I'll start a thread

later

marwen1

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I'm afraid of routers, they are my tool of last resort. This is what works for me. For trimming props, C clamp a scrap of wood to a bandsaw that has a fine tooth blade. The scrap piece has a bolt pressed [or threaded] in from the underside [of the wood scrap] that matches the hole in the prop. Once the distance from the center of the prop bolt to the blade has been set, now you're ready to start cutting. Some very impressive gains can be made with prop work, and whether you realize it or not, you are improving the "developed" HP of the engine......even though you are reducing thrust.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Oh my friend, if ONLY there were NOT so many miles between us.

I reality, I find that when I hear a comment like yours -- i.e. being afraid of one of then ---

the majority of the time we don't like doing something, it is solely because we haven't developed the confidence to use that particular tool.

Once upon a time -- not so many tears ago -- I was terrified of them that and a SKIL SAW.. I have almost cut off a thumb with a skill saw an a finger tip on the other hand

Shucks, one time, I bought a brand new saw blade and fortunately, I'd installed it backwards. My hand slipped while making a cut and my palm landed right down on top of the NEW spinning blade. Becaquse I had installed it backwards, the teeth were NOT cutting. All I got was a case of WAKE UP -STUPID!

On the other hand, I found that in my youth, I made it an all-out task to find as many ways as possible to use the router. If I recall, I think I had it down to something like 33 different power processesm

Mainly, the NOISE and the overall speed of the bit alone is intimidating!

USE a guard (if need be) and you can do marvelous things with a router

later

marwen1

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, running a skill saw the way I see carpenters do gives me the heebie-jeebies, too! The only use I've had for my router as far as model work goes is to cut spar slots in foam, that works real slick.