If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
03-15-2003, 04:37 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
[COLOR=blue]I JUST HAVE THIS QUESTION TO ASK WILL MY PLANE FLY SINCE WHEN I PUT ALL THE ELECTRONICS AND ENGINE ON IT IT GLIDES DO YOU THINK IT WILL FLY. I
03-15-2003, 05:32 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
If it glides OK then you're 90% there. The model may have a tendency to climb or not under power. Just be ready for a little bit of down pressure for the first flight to hold the climb angle in check.
And PLEASE loose the caps lock. It's the internet equivalent to yelling ya know......
So you've obviously been busy building while I've been away. What is the model?
And PLEASE loose the caps lock. It's the internet equivalent to yelling ya know......
So you've obviously been busy building while I've been away. What is the model?
03-15-2003, 05:40 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
ok now i have abother problem my engine will not start and its leeking fuel badly
03-15-2003, 05:55 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
Yeah, I saw that in the other post.
The not starting sounds like the needle is jammed up with dried crud as the others suggested. The fuel leaking out may be a couple of things.
One is that the tank to case screws are not evenly tightened. The other is that someone has tightened them too much and cracked the rear plate with the needle valve. The little cast in pockets that the screw heads fit into are very delicate. Those screws need to be only snugged rather than tightened. Go too far and the pockets will crack and the tank will leak. The other option is that someone decided to try test running the engine and just grabbed the tank in a vise rather than screwing it to a block of wood. The tanks rely on a perfect fit between the back plate and the bell. Any amount of pressure from a vise WILL bend the tank and it'll leak. I'm afraid that if it's bent or the screw pockets are cracked then you'll need new parts.
A "short term" fix is to disassemble the tank, clean it all very well and then reassemble using a very small amount of RTV silicone bathtub caulk to seal the tank bell to backplate joint and/or seal the screw head pockets after the engine is together. I used the quote marks because it's temporary but if you don't neet to take the engine apart this temporary solution could last for years.
If you're working on any 1/2A engine remember that NOTHING on these engines needs a lot of torque on the wrench of screwdriver to hold it together. I've seen a WAY more engines with damage from too much tightening than I have engines that vibrate apart from too little tightening. If you're in doubt start by just tightening less than you think you need and run the engine. If anything comes loose after a run or two then re-tighten it with a little more torque the next time. These engines are kind of like Life that way....
The not starting sounds like the needle is jammed up with dried crud as the others suggested. The fuel leaking out may be a couple of things.
One is that the tank to case screws are not evenly tightened. The other is that someone has tightened them too much and cracked the rear plate with the needle valve. The little cast in pockets that the screw heads fit into are very delicate. Those screws need to be only snugged rather than tightened. Go too far and the pockets will crack and the tank will leak. The other option is that someone decided to try test running the engine and just grabbed the tank in a vise rather than screwing it to a block of wood. The tanks rely on a perfect fit between the back plate and the bell. Any amount of pressure from a vise WILL bend the tank and it'll leak. I'm afraid that if it's bent or the screw pockets are cracked then you'll need new parts.
A "short term" fix is to disassemble the tank, clean it all very well and then reassemble using a very small amount of RTV silicone bathtub caulk to seal the tank bell to backplate joint and/or seal the screw head pockets after the engine is together. I used the quote marks because it's temporary but if you don't neet to take the engine apart this temporary solution could last for years.
If you're working on any 1/2A engine remember that NOTHING on these engines needs a lot of torque on the wrench of screwdriver to hold it together. I've seen a WAY more engines with damage from too much tightening than I have engines that vibrate apart from too little tightening. If you're in doubt start by just tightening less than you think you need and run the engine. If anything comes loose after a run or two then re-tighten it with a little more torque the next time. These engines are kind of like Life that way....
03-15-2003, 06:18 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
hahahah never mind thanks for your help i got the prob fixed the engine was leaking beacuse after i cleaned it i never tighten the screws and i never could get it started because my plug was not hot thanks for all of use help and now since i have already cut my self from the prop iam selling the engine and going back to my original hobby rc nitro cars thatnks guys
03-15-2003, 07:47 PM
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If My Plane Glides With Engine And All Electronics Installed Will It Fly
That's what leather gloves are for..... or get the spring starter.Glad the problem was so easy to fix.
