norvel breakin
03-19-2003, 11:25 PM
#1
Thread Starter
norvel breakin
i finaly got this little engine to start after turning it over with a homemade chicken stick for hours, and doing about 3 complete cycles on the glow charger battery. it seemed to have great power running so rich, and after 2 minutes of running or so it got up to 92 degrees on the top of the head is all. i had to keep the glow charger on it the whole time. when i took it off the first time the engine quit.
the inital run only lastest 2 minutes because my prop unscrewed and came off, landed on the floor right infront of me, that was werid.
the prop it self fell 4 feet or so to the concret floor, so far doesnt look like any damage,it wasnt spinning to fast. im gonna rebalance, i didnt locktite my prop screw, and im thinking now i should have.
im gonna use some red on it, let it sit for a few hours at least before i try again.
first i gotta clean the oil out of the threads.
are these little buggers allways so hard to start at first? i oiled it down like it said.
the inital run only lastest 2 minutes because my prop unscrewed and came off, landed on the floor right infront of me, that was werid.
the prop it self fell 4 feet or so to the concret floor, so far doesnt look like any damage,it wasnt spinning to fast. im gonna rebalance, i didnt locktite my prop screw, and im thinking now i should have.
im gonna use some red on it, let it sit for a few hours at least before i try again.
first i gotta clean the oil out of the threads.
are these little buggers allways so hard to start at first? i oiled it down like it said.
03-20-2003, 01:06 AM
#2
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Novel Break-in
Greetings Lorduss,
Yes, all of the Norvel 1/2 A engines are hard to start initially. The reason is the tite fit of the piston at TDC. This tite fit is part of the "Revlite" technology develped by Norvel. This technology is also the reason for the engine running cool.
The best way to start these great little engines is with a 1/2A Starter which is available from Sig. It will take about an hours running time to get to the point where the engine really starts to break in.
By the way, you may or may not have heard about not using a rubber fueling bulb to fuel these engines. However, it is true and correct. The nitro in the fuel deteriorates the rubber and ultimiately coats the glow plug filament which results in short plug life. This only occurs with the 1/2 A engines.
Now you may be thinking to yourself what a bunch of bull is this. However, think about it for a bit. You have stated the head is relatively cool right after running. This cool running doesn't burn off the residue on the filament like the bigger hotter running Norvel engines and other 1/2 A engines.
If you don't believe this, you will find out sooner or later.
retiredwillie
Yes, all of the Norvel 1/2 A engines are hard to start initially. The reason is the tite fit of the piston at TDC. This tite fit is part of the "Revlite" technology develped by Norvel. This technology is also the reason for the engine running cool.
The best way to start these great little engines is with a 1/2A Starter which is available from Sig. It will take about an hours running time to get to the point where the engine really starts to break in.
By the way, you may or may not have heard about not using a rubber fueling bulb to fuel these engines. However, it is true and correct. The nitro in the fuel deteriorates the rubber and ultimiately coats the glow plug filament which results in short plug life. This only occurs with the 1/2 A engines.
Now you may be thinking to yourself what a bunch of bull is this. However, think about it for a bit. You have stated the head is relatively cool right after running. This cool running doesn't burn off the residue on the filament like the bigger hotter running Norvel engines and other 1/2 A engines.
If you don't believe this, you will find out sooner or later.
retiredwillie
03-20-2003, 02:10 AM
#3
Thread Starter
norvel breakin
i use a pump to fule the tank so im not worryed. ment for model airplane use. i dont use the blub.
what kinda of temps does my engine need to see during breakin ? so far im barley getting to 100. ive ran it for about 8 min so far. so far ive had to keep the glow igniter on it, so i lean it out to where i dont need to at this point ?
how long should it stay on the stand, running time or tanks, before i put it in the plane ?
what kinda of temps does my engine need to see during breakin ? so far im barley getting to 100. ive ran it for about 8 min so far. so far ive had to keep the glow igniter on it, so i lean it out to where i dont need to at this point ?
how long should it stay on the stand, running time or tanks, before i put it in the plane ?
03-20-2003, 04:30 AM
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Norvel Break-in
Lean it out to where it will run without the glow driver being left on. Don't get it too lean though - peak it out for a few seconds and then richen the mixture to let it cool off. Repeat this process for several cycles. If you still have problems getting to stay running, remove one or two shims. You didn't mention how much nitro your fuel contains (if you did I missed it!). Use at least 15%.
Once you get the engine to run reliably on the stand, you can put it in the plane and fly it, but run it on the rich side to begin with. The R/C version will take a few tanks of fuel until it begins to idle reliably a a low speed. You didn't say what size tank you using, but a 1 oz tank is typical for .049 and .061. You should be able to get the engine to run very well after 4 or 5 tanks, but the engine will still be a long way from being broken in.
Once you get the engine to run reliably on the stand, you can put it in the plane and fly it, but run it on the rich side to begin with. The R/C version will take a few tanks of fuel until it begins to idle reliably a a low speed. You didn't say what size tank you using, but a 1 oz tank is typical for .049 and .061. You should be able to get the engine to run very well after 4 or 5 tanks, but the engine will still be a long way from being broken in.
03-20-2003, 05:47 AM
#5
Thread Starter
norvel breakin
right now im running 30 in it.
and i am running a 1oz tank.
the only other problem im having is keeping the prop on, it keeps coming lose, it well be running, then stop, and i try to turn it over and the prop spins when the shaft meets compression, i dont want to crank it to hard, do you guys use locktite in your setups at all ?
and i am running a 1oz tank.
the only other problem im having is keeping the prop on, it keeps coming lose, it well be running, then stop, and i try to turn it over and the prop spins when the shaft meets compression, i dont want to crank it to hard, do you guys use locktite in your setups at all ?
03-20-2003, 04:20 PM
#6
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norvel breakin
Ahhhhhh yes,
Welcome to the OH SH*T club! lol My norvel's had a propensity to do that too- however once it is broken in (which takes a Long, long time) it get's better-
safety glasses mabey? going from 10-8K to a dead stop that little prop is realy zinging! lol
L.R.
Welcome to the OH SH*T club! lol My norvel's had a propensity to do that too- however once it is broken in (which takes a Long, long time) it get's better-
safety glasses mabey? going from 10-8K to a dead stop that little prop is realy zinging! lol
L.R.
