layback2

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I have a bunch of cox engines all sorts and one that needs a crank a 70s model Golden bee is there any place except the bay to find one thanks alot

build light

I have one you can have. P.M. your adress and I will get it out to you.


Robert

layback2

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PM sent thank you robert

glowtime

Wondering if any of you experianced cox guys have a good method of removing cox cylinders from there crank case. I remember destorting cylinders with the factory wrench on older engines where the tool had to go through ports to remove the cylinder, and maring cylinders even when using a cloth and plier. The smaller engines like the 010 and 020 are especially vulnerable to these methods of removal. This is more of an issue in recent years as cylinder assemblys are not as affordable ! Any advise on removal is appreciated . Thanks

layback2

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I have done it a few times ether by soaking in fuel for a few hours or heating the cylinder with a blow dryer or small hand held torch oil real good and try turning slowly it has work for me like i said no pliers

BMatthews

If it's the open exhaust style I've never had any trouble from using the Cox wrench on the ports. But if it's stupid tight then I'd suggest heating the crankcase from a small propane torch flame. It won't take much but it should be too hot to hold so that you need to hold it using leather work gloves. Use a low flame setting so it's about 3 or 4 times larger than a candle flame. It should be hot enough that a spit wetted finger tip sizzles real loud when tapped onto it.

Andrew

Remove the glow plug.

Use a Dremel to cut opposing flats in the top fin of the cylinder. When you cut the flats, be careful to keep them parallel and at standard width, i.e., so you can use a ground down tappet wrench if necessary. You can also use a piece of steel flat stock with a notch ground in, like the notches in the standard COX wrench. The flat stock must be thin enough to fit between the plug and the second fin on the cylinder.

Replace the glowplug and lightly tighten. The plug will help support the top of the cylinder and keep it from distorting.

Heat the crankcase with a heatgun (monokote) or you can use a torch, but be careful not to distort the case. Apply the heat to the bottom of the case and try not to add direct heat to the cylinder. You want to soften any sealant and expand the case, not the cylinder. After heating the case, I prefer to hold it with a gloved hand and use my handmade wrench in the other. It keeps me from applying too much pressure.

That will usually break it loose unless the gorilla was working the line that day.

Never stick anything thru the ports and avoid using the COX wrench on the ports.

jeffie8696

Glad I saw this post, I have been having a devil of a time. Even after soaking . Gotta try some heat next.

Wayne C

small strap wrench

jessiej

What works for me (usually) : Drill a hole slightly smaller than the cylinder in a 1" board. Saw with the grain through the board. Use the resulting pieces in a vise to clamp the cylinder while applying the advise from the prior posts.

BTW the gorilla referenced in a previous post seems to have been busy on a number of the sure starts.

jess

gcb

The original Cox engines (Space Bug, Thermal Hopper, Space Bug Jr., etc.) successfully used the wrench through the cylinder. If you were careful, it usually worked fine. As engines evolved, the cylinder slot size changed. New cylinders could not use the same wrench...it would not fit the slot. Conversely, if a NEW wrench was used on an old cylinder, it was too loose a fit and you could easily burr the cylinder. If you put the wrench in the slot and there is a lot of slop...DON'T use it.

As designs progressed further and Cox tries wire mesh or multiple slots in the cylinder, the flats on top of the cylinder appeared.

Here are some various Cox wrenches:

George

Yuu

I agree with Andrew above. Make a cheap wrench. This idea was also brought forth by Dickiebird, and I think I remember he wrote he used a 5/8" wrench, and made the wrench thickness about 0.100". That's a little less than 1/8" stock. Make sure you file the flat spots on the top fin parallel to each other... "sneek in on it" so the wrench fits. Be sure to put the glow plug back on to keep the cylinder round when you try to loosen the cylinder from the case. I put the case in a vise padded by paper towel.