Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
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Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Hello New to these forums here in this section. Dont know much about the 1/2 A or 1/4A planes but thought it would be a fun project. The seller i purchased this plane from Sent me a message that said this.
"Flying it with a Control Line system would take a throttled 2 cycle .25 to .40 engine, R/C would use at least a .40 two cycle or a .heavy .50 four cycle and a large prop. This plane will likely need nose weight to balance properly. "
Now i have the kit and it says on the box .020 to .049 powered engine can be flown with cotrol line or remote control using 1/4 A equipment.
Looks more like a static type of model. But I think it would be neat if it could be built to fly with RC equipment.
1973 Comet Industries Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane wingspan is 27". Almost as old as me. lol
So is it possable to make this into a flyable plane or would it just be best to build it and hang it from the ceiling.?
Were do you Find 1/4A Equipment?
I'm use to dealing with much larger rc models. So i dont know much about the smaller planes.
"Flying it with a Control Line system would take a throttled 2 cycle .25 to .40 engine, R/C would use at least a .40 two cycle or a .heavy .50 four cycle and a large prop. This plane will likely need nose weight to balance properly. "
Now i have the kit and it says on the box .020 to .049 powered engine can be flown with cotrol line or remote control using 1/4 A equipment.
Looks more like a static type of model. But I think it would be neat if it could be built to fly with RC equipment.
1973 Comet Industries Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane wingspan is 27". Almost as old as me. lol
So is it possable to make this into a flyable plane or would it just be best to build it and hang it from the ceiling.?
Were do you Find 1/4A Equipment?
I'm use to dealing with much larger rc models. So i dont know much about the smaller planes.
#2
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
The main question is about getting the CG correct without using ballast. Even with the battery in the cowl with a 1/2A engine, the nose is pretty short for the CG to come out right. The wing areas don't just simply add up to figure out wingloading with a bipe or tripe, either. If you load a 27 inch span plane down with a .15 engine and .15 sized gear, flying it might be like balancing a balloon on a stick. I built a scale WWI Fokker bipe powered by a .061 in this size range, but ended up extending the nose 1 1/2 inches....or so....and it still was a chore to stack all the gear far enough forward to fly without using lead. The plane ended up being a decent flyer.
#3
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
With todays micro systems you can make these models from yester-year fly R/C. Think light from start to finish.
The engines your seller talks of are way out there...
The Comet people were right about engine size for C/L or Free flight. R/C would use the same as free flight.
Now you need to pick up an (.020) Pee Wee or TD. Throttled would be a touch.
The G_Mark.33, which has a throttle, would be nice but they are getting X-EE....
HS50 servos. Berg 4 Rx. 220 Mah battery..
It can be done.
The engines your seller talks of are way out there...
The Comet people were right about engine size for C/L or Free flight. R/C would use the same as free flight.
Now you need to pick up an (.020) Pee Wee or TD. Throttled would be a touch.
The G_Mark.33, which has a throttle, would be nice but they are getting X-EE....
HS50 servos. Berg 4 Rx. 220 Mah battery..
It can be done.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
You COULD use an 049 and the nose weight may come in handy but I would use it with a 7x4 prop to cut down the power otherwise it would fly more like a P51 Mustang than a WW1 model.
If you could get a few photos of the plans so we could see what the structure looks like that would help.
Really though, at this size it would be wiser to use electric. I would also suggest modifications to lighten the tail and the rear fuselage area so you cut down or eliminate the need for noseweight.
If you could get a few photos of the plans so we could see what the structure looks like that would help.
Really though, at this size it would be wiser to use electric. I would also suggest modifications to lighten the tail and the rear fuselage area so you cut down or eliminate the need for noseweight.
#6
RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Is this one of those things with the cardboard tube running down the middle?
If so, I would consider that the vacu-formed plastic cowling, machine guns, pilot, ply firewall and the decals were probably worth what you paid for the kit, and I would completely scratch build the rest of it.
If you're up for that, it could be a nice project.
And here I go agreeing with Bruce again--use an over-propped .049. I'd use an 8x3.
Jim
If so, I would consider that the vacu-formed plastic cowling, machine guns, pilot, ply firewall and the decals were probably worth what you paid for the kit, and I would completely scratch build the rest of it.
If you're up for that, it could be a nice project.
And here I go agreeing with Bruce again--use an over-propped .049. I'd use an 8x3.
Jim
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
I will take picture of the plans For the plane would be nice if my scanner was big enough to scan the Plans. Hopefully my picture taking skills will be up to par enouhh to give everyone a better Look at the construction plans.
All the information is great i will be pondering over alot of it for awhile[X(]
I'm sorry the G.Mark.33 would have to be an engine and i guess X-EE would refer to them being expensive and hard to find i take it.
combatpigg Great infomation and very inspiring i was thinking it wouldnt be practicle to make it into a flyable rc plane.[sm=thumbup.gif]
BMatthews
Definetly dont want it to fly like a P-51 want a nice slow realistic flying WWI Model. The .049 is the smallest engine i have ever messed with back in the 70's i had two control line planes they were my introduction into RC when i was a kid. So i know a little about them and how they work. 7X4 prop Sounds good considering there is a big red 9 1/2 inch one in the box for rubber band flight. think i'll use it on one of them Guillows Stick planes you wind up.[sm=idea.gif]
.020 Sounds like a smaller engine and intresting never seen one in real life or the Gmark.33 i would imagine all these engines are like the .049 and have the fuel tank mounted to the rear of the engine.
HS50 servos. Berg 4 Rx. 220 Mah battery shouldnt be a problem. i'll have to start Searching ebay for these engines you have mentioned and the other equipment sounds like it would be easy enough.
I appriciate all the input very much.
All the information is great i will be pondering over alot of it for awhile[X(]
Now you need to pick up an (.020) Pee Wee or TD. Throttled would be a touch.
The G_Mark.33, which has a throttle, would be nice but they are getting X-EE....
The G_Mark.33, which has a throttle, would be nice but they are getting X-EE....
combatpigg Great infomation and very inspiring i was thinking it wouldnt be practicle to make it into a flyable rc plane.[sm=thumbup.gif]
BMatthews
You COULD use an 049 and the nose weight may come in handy but I would use it with a 7x4 prop to cut down the power otherwise it would fly more like a P51 Mustang than a WW1 model.
.020 Sounds like a smaller engine and intresting never seen one in real life or the Gmark.33 i would imagine all these engines are like the .049 and have the fuel tank mounted to the rear of the engine.
HS50 servos. Berg 4 Rx. 220 Mah battery shouldnt be a problem. i'll have to start Searching ebay for these engines you have mentioned and the other equipment sounds like it would be easy enough.
I appriciate all the input very much.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
ORIGINAL: buzzard bait
Is this one of those things with the cardboard tube running down the middle?
If so, I would consider that the vacu-formed plastic cowling, machine guns, pilot, ply firewall and the decals were probably worth what you paid for the kit, and I would completely scratch build the rest of it.
If you're up for that, it could be a nice project.
And here I go agreeing with Bruce again--use an over-propped .049. I'd use an 8x3.
Jim
Is this one of those things with the cardboard tube running down the middle?
If so, I would consider that the vacu-formed plastic cowling, machine guns, pilot, ply firewall and the decals were probably worth what you paid for the kit, and I would completely scratch build the rest of it.
If you're up for that, it could be a nice project.
And here I go agreeing with Bruce again--use an over-propped .049. I'd use an 8x3.
Jim
I do have all the wood to scratch build it might think about that, or just build 2. With the plans i should be able to build as many as i want.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
This is one of the kits I fondly remember from my youth. I miss the Comet brand. I would be very interested in a copy of those plans if you ever decided to make any copies (like for example at your local Staples office supply using the large paper copier)
These things fly great as rubber free flight, and as a park flyer type small electric, but I assure you it will fly like dog squat as a control line.
Nice purchase! Keep us updated as to your progress...
These things fly great as rubber free flight, and as a park flyer type small electric, but I assure you it will fly like dog squat as a control line.
Nice purchase! Keep us updated as to your progress...
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Wow... so those kits came with a built in blast tube?!?!?! For a rubber model that would be a huge advantage. A fuselage construction jig and rubber motor blast tube all in one. I'm agog at the pure brainiac'ness of the Comet designers...
For RC the tube would just get in the way. But if you just tack glued the formers to it very lightly with some sort of solvent based glue like sigment then it would be easy to soften the joints and slide the tube out once all the stringers are in place and the works is self supporting.
The wing spars will likely be the one thing that needs some serious attention. Rubber models don't generate big G loads like an RC model can.
Oddly enough I was playing with a set of plans for a Triplane. But on mine I took the Wylam drawings of the full sized and just blew them up to a 30 inch span The goal was going to be to make a stick for stick and rib for rib copy. Some changes to make it a more successful model were going to be slightly larger ailerons and sheet ribs instead of the original's built up from strip and gusset ribs ...... that's it. Other than that it would be 100% scale inside and out.
For RC the tube would just get in the way. But if you just tack glued the formers to it very lightly with some sort of solvent based glue like sigment then it would be easy to soften the joints and slide the tube out once all the stringers are in place and the works is self supporting.
The wing spars will likely be the one thing that needs some serious attention. Rubber models don't generate big G loads like an RC model can.
Oddly enough I was playing with a set of plans for a Triplane. But on mine I took the Wylam drawings of the full sized and just blew them up to a 30 inch span The goal was going to be to make a stick for stick and rib for rib copy. Some changes to make it a more successful model were going to be slightly larger ailerons and sheet ribs instead of the original's built up from strip and gusset ribs ...... that's it. Other than that it would be 100% scale inside and out.
#12
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Wow did you get a good deal! I would gladly pay twelve bucks for that kit.
The DR-1 Comet model is one that does not come up often. It is much larger than the Guillows kit that comes up frequently and larger still than the Sterling version that many seem to prefer.
Are the balsa parts printwood or diecut? I have not a lot of experience with Comet models but I think all of those I had and still have are printwood.
I think it will make a fine model so long as you make your best efforts to keep everything behind the CG as light as possible. Cannot say about the flying characteristics of this one. I think you will wind up putting some ballast in the cowl area no matter how well you build this plane but to have the best possible flying, you need to keep the ballast as small as possible.
Since the Queen Bee has been a current topic in another thread, I was thinking it might actually be a good match for this plane although a Tee Dee with the required ballast would probably be a better option for the power difference.
I stand with Bruce on using the blast tube for a temporary alignment tool and removing it before covering. You could work around it but you would definitely benifit by loosing the extra weight and the addition of more room internally.
I sure want to see this project come to completion.
Robert
The DR-1 Comet model is one that does not come up often. It is much larger than the Guillows kit that comes up frequently and larger still than the Sterling version that many seem to prefer.
Are the balsa parts printwood or diecut? I have not a lot of experience with Comet models but I think all of those I had and still have are printwood.
I think it will make a fine model so long as you make your best efforts to keep everything behind the CG as light as possible. Cannot say about the flying characteristics of this one. I think you will wind up putting some ballast in the cowl area no matter how well you build this plane but to have the best possible flying, you need to keep the ballast as small as possible.
Since the Queen Bee has been a current topic in another thread, I was thinking it might actually be a good match for this plane although a Tee Dee with the required ballast would probably be a better option for the power difference.
I stand with Bruce on using the blast tube for a temporary alignment tool and removing it before covering. You could work around it but you would definitely benifit by loosing the extra weight and the addition of more room internally.
I sure want to see this project come to completion.
Robert
#13
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
If I was building that kit for R/C it would probably wind up with my .020 Pee Wee with throttle ring and rudder only control. The Pee Wee crank is pretty robust for its size and could turn another inch or inch and a half of prop without breaking. Something like the old thin hubbed wooden Rev Up 6x3. If the plans don't show dihedral for the top plane I'd put in at least 4º on each panel, maybe more. I'd probably ditch the formers and stringers fuse from kit and build a simple box fuselage with sheeting in front of the cockpit and open sticks back to the tail post (just like Fokker did with steel tubes). That way you'd lighten the tail, have room to position your Rx, batt. and servo(s), and get your fingers in there, too.
Heck, cut a new set of ribs for the wings and build the main planes and tail planes from scratch as well. The Fokker cowl can be built up from thin sheet and a couple of formers. Then you can build the kit for display and fly the crap out of the scratch built!
Heck, cut a new set of ribs for the wings and build the main planes and tail planes from scratch as well. The Fokker cowl can be built up from thin sheet and a couple of formers. Then you can build the kit for display and fly the crap out of the scratch built!
ORIGINAL: BMatthews
You COULD use an 049 and the nose weight may come in handy but I would use it with a 7x4 prop to cut down the power otherwise it would fly more like a P51 Mustang than a WW1 model.
If you could get a few photos of the plans so we could see what the structure looks like that would help.
Really though, at this size it would be wiser to use electric. I would also suggest modifications to lighten the tail and the rear fuselage area so you cut down or eliminate the need for noseweight.
You COULD use an 049 and the nose weight may come in handy but I would use it with a 7x4 prop to cut down the power otherwise it would fly more like a P51 Mustang than a WW1 model.
If you could get a few photos of the plans so we could see what the structure looks like that would help.
Really though, at this size it would be wiser to use electric. I would also suggest modifications to lighten the tail and the rear fuselage area so you cut down or eliminate the need for noseweight.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Well i took some pictures since apperently this is a very Popular Kit back in the day Ashame the company isn't around anymore i searched for them and couldnt find anything.[&o]
I think the idea of going to a Kinkos is great, have to plan a trip for that. Nearest one is some 30 miles or so i live in a town like Southpark there are not hobbie stores or anything like a Staples. Just a little red neck town.lol
But Since the plans are in such good shape i don't want to mess them up. so i'm going to go and get full size copies of them have to call see how much it cost.
I took some pics they arent the best.[:-]
I got the kit cheap cause it was an opened kit and some of the parts are missing but can be easily made with the plans.
I think the idea of going to a Kinkos is great, have to plan a trip for that. Nearest one is some 30 miles or so i live in a town like Southpark there are not hobbie stores or anything like a Staples. Just a little red neck town.lol
But Since the plans are in such good shape i don't want to mess them up. so i'm going to go and get full size copies of them have to call see how much it cost.
I took some pics they arent the best.[:-]
I got the kit cheap cause it was an opened kit and some of the parts are missing but can be easily made with the plans.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Yep, the old Comet kits were part of life early on, will always remember building them.
That DR-1 is about perfect for 1/2a, I would go with two channels alrn/elevator, not a rudder. With a scale wings setup that would work well.
"Take care of her, it may be the last one you are likely to get" ...
That DR-1 is about perfect for 1/2a, I would go with two channels alrn/elevator, not a rudder. With a scale wings setup that would work well.
"Take care of her, it may be the last one you are likely to get" ...
#16
RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
That was a good find, indeed. Good luck with the build. Here's my Guillow's DR-1 that I built last year(rubber powered, static display). Like someone else said, it's smaller than the Comet. I've never seen another one of these in completed form. I agree that a .020 Pee Wee would be a neat engine for the Comet kit.
#17
RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
A couple more pics. I've always been fascinated with the Fokker DR-1 and the men who flew them. I've heard that the wingtip skids were made from axe handles. I chose balsa instead.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
ORIGINAL: linkadrip
I think the idea of going to a Kinkos is great, have to plan a trip for that. Nearest one is some 30 miles or so i live in a town like Southpark there are not hobbie stores or anything like a Staples. Just a little red neck town.lol
But Since the plans are in such good shape i don't want to mess them up. so i'm going to go and get full size copies of them have to call see how much it cost.
I think the idea of going to a Kinkos is great, have to plan a trip for that. Nearest one is some 30 miles or so i live in a town like Southpark there are not hobbie stores or anything like a Staples. Just a little red neck town.lol
But Since the plans are in such good shape i don't want to mess them up. so i'm going to go and get full size copies of them have to call see how much it cost.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
ORIGINAL: BMatthews
Wow... so those kits came with a built in blast tube?!?!?! For a rubber model that would be a huge advantage. A fuselage construction jig and rubber motor blast tube all in one. I'm agog at the pure brainiac'ness of the Comet designers...
Wow... so those kits came with a built in blast tube?!?!?! For a rubber model that would be a huge advantage. A fuselage construction jig and rubber motor blast tube all in one. I'm agog at the pure brainiac'ness of the Comet designers...
Hundreds of planes later, I still look back with fondness on the Comets I built and make mental comparisons to what is offered today. I think $12 for a DR1, missing parts or no, is a deal at twice the price.
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Nice finish job Tee Bee - I have one as well - still not covered - w/ a Gmark .033 and micro everything. I guess I need to cover it and give it a go.
It looks like the Comet kits had real balsa in them where as the Guillows kits used something else - maybe philippine mohogany ( spelling? )? Anyway I love the DR -1 as well.
I would love some plans as well.
I do have a VK Dr-1 w/ a OS 48 4 - stroke that is fun to fly.
Remby
Without a rudder that plane will not turn - believe me - based on my larger VK it needs a rudder!
Dale
It looks like the Comet kits had real balsa in them where as the Guillows kits used something else - maybe philippine mohogany ( spelling? )? Anyway I love the DR -1 as well.
I would love some plans as well.
I do have a VK Dr-1 w/ a OS 48 4 - stroke that is fun to fly.
Remby
Without a rudder that plane will not turn - believe me - based on my larger VK it needs a rudder!
Dale
#21
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Quote by lildiesel:
"If I was building that kit for R/C it would probably wind up with my .020 Pee Wee with throttle ring and rudder only control. The Pee Wee crank is pretty robust for its size and could turn another inch or inch and a half of prop without breaking."
Yes the Pee Wee will easily turn a TopFlite nylon 6x3 prop without a problem but the RPMs are not nearly what they should be and the thrust suffers greatly.
I might be wrong (sure wouldn't be the first time!) but I just don't see the Pee Wee as being enough engine for a tripe this size. A Tee Dee .020 could be a better choice for the smaller diplacement option.
Robert
"If I was building that kit for R/C it would probably wind up with my .020 Pee Wee with throttle ring and rudder only control. The Pee Wee crank is pretty robust for its size and could turn another inch or inch and a half of prop without breaking."
Yes the Pee Wee will easily turn a TopFlite nylon 6x3 prop without a problem but the RPMs are not nearly what they should be and the thrust suffers greatly.
I might be wrong (sure wouldn't be the first time!) but I just don't see the Pee Wee as being enough engine for a tripe this size. A Tee Dee .020 could be a better choice for the smaller diplacement option.
Robert
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
I remember the larger Comet kits, in particular the FW-190, had not only a torque tube but the wing ribs were in an X pattern, very strong and warp free. I see from the photo of the DR1 plans that this is also the case on this kit. There were probably other technical greatness associated with these fine kits, but I can't remember them all because the last one I built was probably around 1985 or so. All of them were excellent flyers, unlike the Guillows that require a LOT of fiddling to fly properly.
So whatever happened to Comet anyway? I would buy them again in a second if they were still around.
So whatever happened to Comet anyway? I would buy them again in a second if they were still around.
#23
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RE: Vintage Comet Fokker Dr-1 Tri Plane
Actually, though they aren't around any more, you can still buy many of their hits from pennvalley:
http://www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/rubber/comet.htm
Unfortunately, the larger kits like the DR-1 are no longer available from pennvalley. One exception is the 30" span Clipper jr.
Robert
http://www.pennvalleyhobbycenter.com/rubber/comet.htm
Unfortunately, the larger kits like the DR-1 are no longer available from pennvalley. One exception is the 30" span Clipper jr.
Robert