CA hinges
#2
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RE: CA hinges
They are just about all I've ever used since they came out. Once you set the hinge line gap, 1 drop of thin CA per side is all it takes. You can cut them in half for 1/2A projects. Lately I bought an inferior type that has the fuzz seperate from the inner plastic. The good kind has the fuzz homogenous with the inner plastic.
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RE: CA hinges
I started with CA hinges and then the heavens opened up and I discovered the Monokote method. Not that I have ever had problems with CA, its just a seamless hinge really improves the look IMO. And technically no gap is more efficient.
#8
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RE: CA hinges
Thanks all for the info.
dieFluggeister.. What is the monocoat method? I've heard it mentioned before but never seen it nor do I know how to do it. Terry
#9
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RE: CA hinges
I'm at work so I dont have the diagram that's on my home computer. But I'll try to explain. I give full credit to these guys here on RCU who showed me how to do it.
Basically it is covering the entire wing and the aileron with one singlepiece of 'kote on the top, and another on the bottom. I line the uncovered wing up with the aileron hinge line on a table's edge, tack the film in place on the wing, and then tack the covering to the aileron as it is fully deflected (hanging off the edge of the table). Leave no gap. Then with another pass of the iron, fully adhere the film and then trim the edges. Repeat the process with the other side of the wing. When you deflect the aileron now there will be a slight gap. That's ok as it gives a little bit for the next film to grab on to. Really no tricks to it other than you must always deflect the aileron in the opposite direction when tacking and shrinking, and have it adhered well at the hinge line. It sounds awkward but its not as bad as you think. The result is a very flexible joint with no gap.
Can someone post a diagram for now?
Basically it is covering the entire wing and the aileron with one singlepiece of 'kote on the top, and another on the bottom. I line the uncovered wing up with the aileron hinge line on a table's edge, tack the film in place on the wing, and then tack the covering to the aileron as it is fully deflected (hanging off the edge of the table). Leave no gap. Then with another pass of the iron, fully adhere the film and then trim the edges. Repeat the process with the other side of the wing. When you deflect the aileron now there will be a slight gap. That's ok as it gives a little bit for the next film to grab on to. Really no tricks to it other than you must always deflect the aileron in the opposite direction when tacking and shrinking, and have it adhered well at the hinge line. It sounds awkward but its not as bad as you think. The result is a very flexible joint with no gap.
Can someone post a diagram for now?
#10
RE: CA hinges
Here's a rough description. Side 1-3 represents the stab; side 2-4 is the elevator. I tend to bevel so that the top edges meet rather than beveling so the hinge meets in the middle of the surface.
Lay the stab/elevator flat (sides 1 and 2 are up) so that the edges match up and run your monokote across the hinge line from surface 1 across to surface 2. After sticking down, you can turn the stab/elev over so that sides 3 and 4 are up and lay the stab on the edge of a table -- let the elevator hang straight down. Stick your monokote to side 3 following around bevel. You then may want to lay the elevator on the table letting the stab hang down and finish sticking the monokote to side 4.
Another approach that will also work is after sticking 1 and 2 together, fold the elevator over onto the stab (sides 1 and 2 are touching) then cover 3 and 4 being sure to stick along the beveled edges. Where the seam is exposed, the top and bottom pieces of monokote will stick together.
When done, there will be solid film running from 1 across the hinge line to 2. On the bottom, the monokote will run from 3 up into the bevel and back down, then to 4.
Lay the stab/elevator flat (sides 1 and 2 are up) so that the edges match up and run your monokote across the hinge line from surface 1 across to surface 2. After sticking down, you can turn the stab/elev over so that sides 3 and 4 are up and lay the stab on the edge of a table -- let the elevator hang straight down. Stick your monokote to side 3 following around bevel. You then may want to lay the elevator on the table letting the stab hang down and finish sticking the monokote to side 4.
Another approach that will also work is after sticking 1 and 2 together, fold the elevator over onto the stab (sides 1 and 2 are touching) then cover 3 and 4 being sure to stick along the beveled edges. Where the seam is exposed, the top and bottom pieces of monokote will stick together.
When done, there will be solid film running from 1 across the hinge line to 2. On the bottom, the monokote will run from 3 up into the bevel and back down, then to 4.