cyclops2

How much of a plane can it fly ina 5 mph breeze? Any of the GWS Cubs ?

I am so old, I can not remember. [X(]

Rich

Tee Bee

I believe it could fly one of these with no problems(Skydrill).

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

With a 1 oz tank, a 6 foot span Goldberg Gentle Lady glider will go way up there.

cyclops2

So the 3 scratch built blue foamies, Piper Cubs 48" --266 sq in -- 12 oz. no motor or battery look like goodies for new people on buddy boxs ? They are great on electric but weigh 20 oz. & all I do is charge batteries on the car. [:'(]

Nitro would be soooo much more fun. I have a Norvel .049 ?? Little muffler job. That OK ?

I would buy a couple of SS's if they would do the job.

Thanks, Rich

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

The Sure Start will do the Job on your Blue Foamies.. But don't forget that there is no Throttle.

cyclops2

Now you have me interested.

Who has all the other parts to keep the SS's running.
I can not remember if turning the mixture screw 1 or 2 turns over-riches the mixture to a slow speed. Anybody know? I will just use a servo to run the needle in and out.
Works for me.

Rich

tangerine-jack

That my work for you, but not for the rest of the world. the mixture screw only controls the mixture and the RPM up to a certain point. Attaching a servo to it will only be a disaster.

The thrill of 1/2A comes in a large part to the very fact that they don't have throttles, so you have to build right, tight and light. Kill a chicken, dance anti clockwise around the plane 6 times chanting "oh spirit of Cox have mercy on your unworthy servant", then light the motor off and throw.[sm=bananahead.gif]

BMatthews

You're getting up into the same territory as the 1/2A Texaco old timer models with that size and weight. The SS will certianly fly them and will even do decently well in 5 mph breezes. With a dive for speed they will even manage some loops, Immelmans and rudder rolls. But speed will bleed off quickly so you won't be chaining together a lot of stunts.

In 5 to 7 mph winds I'd also tend to keep them upwind as much as practical since once the engine cuts there won't be much penetration ability. However on more balmy days there's no reason you can't go thermal soaring once the engine cuts. That size and weight is very much thermal worthy.

Since the SS's don't come with fuel tanks they are a proper cadidate for a Fuji film fuel tank. And I'd recomend "doping" the blue foam with Flecto brand polyurethane varnish for the fuel proofing and oil sealer outer stuff. A mist coat of some sort of color to get away from the blue would not be out of the question either. Just don't get too carried away with the finish as that stuff is heavy. Some color, as long as it doesn't make the blue look like mud, then one overall coat of clear PU overall then a second around the engine and back to the TE of the wing and full length along the bottom and you should be golden. Along the bottom? For sure. The oil dribbles along there all the time.


Good luck and be sure to report back. This is a rather interesting idea.

Oh, if you need spars on the wings I'd suggest using clean newsprint and the Flecto WBPU to "papermache" on some newspring spars. Multiple layers of paper bonded to the foam actually makes for a rather stiff and strong wing. The spars should be in the form of long spanwise diamond shapes that overlap. 3 layers each top and bottom should do the trick. The first being a diamond that is 1.5 x 14 inches. The second overlap would be 1.75 x 18 inches and the third 2x24 inches. Then color spray and then the final sealing coat of WBPU.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

One thing regarding the fuel supply that I read and liked the idea of was a rigid pick-up line. Flying inverted for a few moments didn't affect the engine running much, but flying inverted for longer will kill your engine since it gets fuel starved. Gives you a little control over the run time.

somegeek

cyclops2

Each post is knocking 20 years off of my 70.

Am I right in recalling that a perforated pickup tube in a balloon tank could be sucked out, collapsed--fuel pumped in -- slight pressure in the tank relaxed to drive all the air out--pinched tight-- slipped back over the engine fuel nipple and run in any position --IF-- the tank was right in back of the engine ?? No pressurizing of the balloon before putting on the nipple.

cyclops2

I bought 2 of the last 25,000.

There was a site that had a shop with loads of Cox and GWS stuff. He posted on the thread. Can not find it again.

Help.

Rich

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I do not think that a perforated pickup tube is a good idea.
I can't say that I've ever tried it though.
I can think of too many ways for fuel flow to be interrupted.

cyclops2

Hi combattpigg

Do you know of a good place for props and plugs for the SS ?


Rich

BMatthews

Yes it'll work just fine. LOTS of perforations is the key.

CP the perforated tube in this case is there to act like some wadding to avoid the balloon collapsing at least until the last few drops is out of the balloon.

cyclops2

Bruce.

What can I use for a balloon with the High Nitro loads that will not gum up the reeds ?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

cyclops, Tower Hobbies sells [last time I checked] Master Airscrew 6x3 props. If you get a chance to go to a model plane swap meet, you might run across the old indestructable white nylon 6x2 props.

Even with all the air evacuated from a balloon tank, when you go vertical the perforations will hinder the engines' ability to draw fuel. Worse case has the engine not quite dieing but self-frying from a lean mixture.

Yuu

Spars in the wings is a good idea, like in post #8. Perhaps tyvek or house wrap would work too. Wood or carbon rods work too. But remember, the electric motors start instantly and buzzz....the SS engine needs to be 'flipped' and that puts additional cross strain on the fuse behind the engine, and when your fat finger hooks the nose and you 'flip', the whole nose will break off. Put some reinforcing in that area.

cyclops2

The GWS foam warbids have very flexiable wings & tails. So I ran full length pieces or Dacron braided fishing line in the panel line grooves. Used Tite Bond II glue. 5 days later the wing deflection was 1/4 of original amount.
It is foolproof. ......DO NOT CUT the line to get a nice fit in the center of the wing. Cut a very shallow slit and press the line into it.

Rich

Yuu

That balloon tank is at www.crowriverrc.com/My Homepage Files/Page 2 scroll down.

digital_trucker

You'd be surprised how much of a breeze a 1/2A plane can take. Technically, the airplane doesn't know it's windy (has to do with airspeed). Where the wind causes problems is if the plane can't fly into the wind faster than the wind is blowing. Gusty winds that change direction are the big killers. Of course, when it comes time to 'land' is when the effects of wind are the most noticeable. When the winds are higher you definitely want to keep the plane closer in, otherwise you'll be getting some exercise chasing it down. I've flown my Q-Tee in winds that have made a few .40 pilots not want to fly. Done right you can translate a higher wind into more aerobatics (think of it as free horsepower).

cyclops2

Yuu.
Thanks for the bladder fuel tank site. It is perfect for my use in nitro.

Rich

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

My $0.02 on the balloon tank is this: All you need is a stopper! No perf-pickup, no pick-up at all. Yes, I've made adapters and tested the idea completely. Think of the ol' freezer pops you had as a kid. You know, the long, skinny ones. Remember sucking them dry? (just leave that one alone CP[sm=47_47.gif]) Just make a stopper big enough to hold the neck open so there are no folds. Put a bit of fuel in your syringe and attach. Pull the air out, then push the fuel in. Remember to stop before the syringe runs dry!

If you can manage 14-16oz AUW and around 180sq in of wing area, it will be a bit of a hot-rod with a good surestart and a 5x3, 6x3 will be fine, but a bit slower. With the additional wing area, it will be a bit more sensitive to wind. With dihedral it will worsen.

digital_trucker

I flew a 210 sq. in. lead sled that weighed in at a solid 24 oz. (flying weight) on a product engine and it did quite well, no reason to think an SS would do any worse.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Sounds like you flew a Dominator 200 with a product engine.[sm=lol.gif] My comparison was made using the DNU specs. What you describe there DT, is three times the weight and only double the wing area of a SWR. I'd say thats pretty good proof of what a nicely airfoiled wing will do for you. Would it loop, etc?

digital_trucker

That was a home-brew, flat-bottom wing. 36" span 6" chord. Aileron/elevator control. It'd loop, spin, snap roll, hold inverted....the whole bit. Outside loops were a bit problematic though. The wing spars were 1/4x1/8 spruce sticks, and it used cracked ribs. The fuse and tail were corrugated cardboard. It looked more-or-less like a Quickie 200...just your basic box with an engine, tail, and hershey bar wing. Radio failure did it in, this was back in the '80s and I was using a Tower micro radio that had seen it's fair share of knocking about. It really WAS something with the radio too...when you're flying along nice and smooth and all of a sudden it goes to full-down you know you have a problem. It would respond properly, then glitch to full-down....what a hair-raising last flight. It nosed in full-bore and turned the wing to toothpicks, but the fuse and tail only bent in the saddle area. I straightened it with popsicle sticks and built a new wing for it, and flew it for the rest of the season.

Long story short; all this obsession with weight isn't really necessary for your average sport flyer. Heck, I even used to fly a Black Widow powered Piece-O-Cake inverted!