Msaint

My Feedback: (5)

I have a couple 1/2a SAM type old timers one on the bench Im framing at the moment (a Buzzard Bombshell) and another old timer on the way (A 54" Shive Quaker).

I want to cover the old timers with litespan to get that old silkspan type look as well as the weight savings. I was wondering if anyone has a URL with tips and tricks as to covering with litespan as I have never used it.

I also have a few other kits in box waiting to hit the bench for this years flying season these planes would look best in a film type covering. I normaly used Ultrakote on my larger planes.
I was wondering if Ultracote would be acceptable or if there is something out there better and lighter for my 1/2a covering jobs.


Thanks
M_Saint

beenie

My Feedback: (9)

I have begun using Ultracote lite on some of my parkfliers. It is easy to use and is pretty light. The only thing is that it is transparent, which may or may not be ok for you.

boberos

I have used litespan a number of times with good success.
Just follow the instructions. It works ok.

A couple of things to keep in mind.

1) It is very strong with the grain but correspondingly weak & easy to tear across the grain. Most of my rips have been due to hangar rash. Handle carefully.

2) As the instructions state, it has a very small shrink rate. In the order of 4 percent, so put it on tight & don't rely on a lot of heat shrinkage.

3) Suitable adhesives are: balsaloc, balsarite (Coverite), stix-it (Sig), weldbond glue. All are heat sensitive.

Good luck,
Bob G

cabanestrut2002

it doesnt have such a good 'stretch and curve rate' as a plastic film does so you may need to use more than one piece in some areas.
i always try to have the 'grain' of the litespan running in the most suitable direction for the bit i'm covering, for instance if i was covering a wing panel i would have the grain running lengthways for better shrinkage and strength.
it is nice stuff to use and lasts ages

BMatthews

From the last couple of posts it sounds a lot like the old Micafilm that I've used before.

If this is the case it's fine for "normal" flat or simple curved areas. For compound areas around wingtips try using some extra iron heat to heat stretch it and gain the extra material you need. With Balsarite you'll have to hold it for a second or two until the Balsarite cools enough to prevent slipping.

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I've used both Airspan and Litespan. Both are a bit fragile and don't lend a lot of strength to the airframe like doped tissue does. Easier than tissue for me tho'. Airspan requires dope or some other stuff to make it fuel-proof. I use a water-based clear finish - Cabots Crystal Clear , which works okay but doesn't give the strength of dope. Litepsan doesn't need this. I believe it's also diesel proof.

cabanestrut2002

yes, its diesel and glow fuel proof

wild fred

My Feedback: (3)

i'm a micafilm man, myself. have been flying the hovering seniorita for several months, it is covered in red and yellow micafilm, applied with balsarite. goes on about like coverite does. no additional finish, holding up great and it is the TOUGHEST stuff! here's a couple pix of planes in it

wild fred

My Feedback: (3)

and the ear hair special...

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

One trick that works for me on Litespan is to use the iron to "drag" the covering toward the edge as your sticking it down. The big thing though, as mentioned, is to get it all on tight and wrinkle free. Wrinkles WILL come back. My experience is that it's tougher than dope and tissue.

Also, even though Litespan has a finish, I always use the same material for trim. I like to seal the entire surface and lock in the trim by spraying over everything with Crown, clear, non-yellowing, gloss urethane. This stuff is as fuel proof as epoxy paint. It can be sprayed on thick, doesn't run easily as long as you fog on a few light coats prior to one thick gloss coat. Dries in less than an hour and when dry, is on so thin, you swear it's not there. Also gives a nice gloss that the raw surface just doesn't have.

Also, don't do a Buzzard Bombshell in plastic. That would be obscene. Use the Litespan. That'll bring back the nostalgia for sure.

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Boy, you guys must be using a different brand of litespan than I have been using. It either works or don't for me.

Biggest problem so far has been in that after a few months it begins pealing up and loosening at the edges. I have tried stick glue and Balsaloc. The stick works only moderately better.

I have had mounds of trouble in getting the silver/aluminum to stay stuck, but the colors such as yellow, white or cream stick good. The metalic just come up a bit sooner.

Most of my useage for it has been on gliders and electric, and thus does not require fuel proofing.


Wm.

mefly2

My Feedback: (6)

Anybody ever use Solight...aka Nelson Litefilm? I have used it quite a bit on smaller planes and it works great...adhesive backed, shrinks easily, quite strong, and good colors.

Bob

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

After they told me it was fuel proof, I ordered a bunch of Nelson Litefilm. A simple test I did was to drip a few drops of raw fuel on the colour side. The fuel promptly dissolved the adhesive/colour. So I sent it all back except for a roll for my HLG. It may be exhaust OIL proof but it's not FUEL (raw) proof. And we all know how much raw fuel gets sprayed around.

Re Litespan and edges. I've never had a problem even with glow engines doing their nasties. The trick is to lay on a HEAVY application of stikum at the raw edge that shows after trimming. Then, simply stik her down with the iron. On the other hand, I haven't used any of my silver yet.