Japanman

Hi Guys. I know these things are a bit rare now, but I have a friend here who is taken by these engines, after seeing my one in my MiG.
If anyone has one that they could part with, I can tell you it will be well used and looked after.


Actually, if anyone has one that is a bit tired, thats fine as well. I have a new replacement piston/cylinder set that can go in, or I could make a new piston for it after re-lapping the cylinder.

Send me a P.M with what you want for it.

Stefan

DeviousDave

PM Sent...

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

JM, I'll take a case of Japanese whiskey................

just kidding [:'(]

Japanman

Thanks to the guys who have sent me P.Ms.
Anyone have a servicable but tired engine they want to sell my friend? I have a new piston and liner set, and worst case I could re-bush it too.
This would seem to be the best option, as I recognise these engines new are probably worth money to collectors that someone who is going to fly the engine is not going to pay-
For $140 I would recommend my friend get a Profi or a Fora.

J.M

DeviousDave

A Profi is likely his best option as they are cheaper than the MkII's have been going for on Fleabay lately. Faster motor too![8D]

Larry Driskill

Are you thinking VA MKII or VA MKII R/C?

Japanman

It`s for a pylon style plane, so the throttle is not important.

Stefan

DeviousDave

JMan: Is there any reason this friend of yours wouldn't consider a Cyclon? Spares might be easier to get, and a diesel head is available...

Japanman

He is aware of the cyclon, but budget is a factor here. Also he has a really nice glass fiber plane shell he designed and made for a TD which the engine is intended for. The VA is not only a nice engine, but it will fit his plane.

I went to his house on saturday and he has two new in bag TD051 engines that could be traded for an engine too.

J.M

Mr Cox

How about the MkI engines?
They're a bit odd with the split crankcase and adjustable timing, but is the performance good?

DeviousDave

The MkI engines were a little slower, but of the two are my favorite. In fact, the MkI is my favorite 1/2A period-very light, powerful and friendly engine. They are a little shorter than a T.D., so they may not fit a fuse intended for Cox power. The MkII is a little longer and heavier.

Mr Cox

I have one of these (MkI) but haven't fired it up, got it when I panicked thinking that there wouldn't be any decent 1/2a engines to find anymore.
I've read the manual and there seems to be quite a lot to fiddle with, do you any advice on things like prop size, fuel and piston setting...?

Larry Driskill

Driskill's abridged addendum to Dan Rutherford's setup tips for the VA: (Version 6/96 )

1/2a flying is great, in no other engine class do you stand to get so much flying time for so few bucks. No other class of model is as likely to bounce rather than break when the ground smites the aircraft. However, both planes and engines are more subject to the vulgarities of nature and less forgiving of lax practices or sloppy technique. Clean fuel, hot batteries, fresh glow plugs, and attention to detail are appreciated and rewarded in 1/2a flying. This is true to a much greater degree than with the big iron engine sizes.
Wild piston timing (less than negative .004" piston to glow head set clearance as measured in Dan's tips) invites difficult needle settings and generally finicky behavior.
Follow Dan's advice and use washers under the motor bolts. True, flat motor mounts are also a nice touch.
As with many modern engines, most of these little gems seem ready to go for the gold after only one or two runs. However, do both the new engine and the new owner a favor by putting half a dozen ground runs on an engine before launching off into the clear blue skies.
Adequate head clearance is magic when consistency is the issue. Tight clearances will make more power in most bench test situations. If you are into setting bench test records, go for the pinch. Otherwise, start with .010" clearance above the piston at TDC and add a Nelson plug head conversion.
In cold weather, or when the Nelson plug head conversion isn't working, switch to a Cox 1702 head. It may be dependent on the phase of the moon or some other obscure factor, or maybe all that extra steel on top of the combustion chamber in the form of the Nelson plug is hard to keep warm in cold weather, but sometimes the Cox plug works when the Nelson does not. Whatever circumstance, don't be too slow to give up a few potential RPM. If you are experiencing needle setting problems, add head clearance and/or switch plugs. No matter which plug you are using, check carefully for compression leaks around the threads where it screws into the case. A drop of oil on the threads will bubble if there is a leak.
Nearly everyone of these engines I've had put out a black goo of oil and apparent signs of aluminum wearing when first fired up. This ends after a couple of runs. If the black plague shows up again at a later date, something is amiss. Stop running the engine and investigate. The most likely cause is a piston that has backed off on the wrist pin carrier. Gluing the carrier/piston assembly together with Loctite 271 will solve this issue.
Electric starters are intended for automobiles and high dollar model engines with ball bearings, beefy con rods and large combustion chambers. Avoid using them with small engines when possible.
Too many 1/2a props of the nylon/plastic cast variety have crooked, out of true hubs. If the VA prop bolt is wobbling, true up or discard that prop.
My strongest running engines are on their second or third piston. When your VA has 10,000 highway miles on the clock and begins to show a poor piston seal, it is time for a piston transplant.
These small engines are turning 25,000 to 30,000 RPM. I'm running them lots of minutes and a each minute represents more cycles of the moving parts than a .36 sees. To get as many minutes/hours as possible out of each engine make sure you're running good fuel with quality oil. Compared to a .36, these little fellows use so little fuel that there is no reason to use the low priced spread.



Proven setup:
Prop - a white Grish 5X3 clipped to 4&1/4" or a black Cox 5X3 clipped to 4".
Bladder - 1/8" ID, 1/32" wall, latex rubber
Plug - Cox 1702 or Galbreath Nelson plug head conversion with .010" clearance above the piston at top dead center. Make sure there are no compression leaks around the plug or head.
Fuel - 30 to 50 % Nitro, 20% oil (castor), remainder methanol
Needle - modified as per Dan's suggestions (remove collet and substitute fuel tubing)

Larry Driskill

And a little more historical stuff.

Wild piston timing (less than negative .004" piston to glow head set clearance as measured in Dan's tips) invites poor needle settings and generally finicky behavior. As is the case with most events, consistent performance wins out over finicky behavior nearly every contest.

Mr Cox

Thanks, so lots of nitro and revs then!

DeviousDave

Little hint: If you throw an RC carb on a VA, you will have to loctite the piston to the carrier. When throttling to an idle, the engine doesn't generate enough heat to lock the piston to the carrier and the piston unscrews itself and stops the motor solid. I learned this adapting the VA to the LMH100 helicopter early on. Took a while to figure out too, and it ain't no fun to pull the motor out of the heli to tear it apart and scratch your head 8 or 9 times in a morning.[:@]

Larry Driskill

Yep, a real good hint . . .

Even on the CL Combat engines that run/ran wide open all the time the piston had to be loctited. Otherwise they would do things like back off and ruin your chances in the final match at the 1993 Nats.

Use the red loctite.

Japanman

...so it might happen at a bad time?
... reminds me of flying a 2 channel model with a cox tanked engine on front that was a bit past it`s prime, and the engine started to surge...and nearly die over and over in rather an unpredictable pattern.
Meanwhile the plane was only about 6 feet off the deck, and barely flying at all. occasionally it was possible to get enough airspeed to turn without stalling, but generally elevator was the only control. unfortunately there where shrubs, fences and banks all nearby that I had to clear as the wind blew the plane in.
This while a friend and i where just about falling down laughing!

J.M