centurikid81

Hi everyone,

I'm fairly new to the R/C world, and very new to 1/2a modeling. Recently, I got my hands on an old Cox babe bee engine. The first issue I ran into was a loose prop driver (I posted about this), which I was able to replace very cheaply from that big auction site. I then decided to try and make this engine like new. I soaked, I scrubbed. And it sparkled . I replaced the crankcase gasket, reed valve, fuel pick up tube, and glow head. Compression was awesome. Seemed all was well, so I built a small test stand and was going to fire it up. I found the original instruction sheet, followed all the directions from there and the tips I found on this forum....and the engine would not go. Finally, I got it to start (backwards!!!) for about 12 seconds. It died, and now won't go at all.

On closer inspection, the one part I didn't replace (the needle valve) is damaged. I hit ebay, and the only one I can find is 9 bucks, more than I paid for the engine and parts. I don't need anything new; just something that works. Can anyone point me to a source so I can get get this engine running?

lildiesel

$9.00 and probably a highway robbery mailing charge. Yikes.

It might be simpler to spend $3.95 on the plastic backplate/reed/needle valve assembly. I've e-mailed you a source for that part.

gcb

How is it damaged? Needle valves on Babe Bees are noted for leaking and not holding a setting. Many use a piece of fuel tubing either with, or instead of, the spring. If you use it with the spring, put the tubing on the bottom next to the backplate so it can both seal and absorb vibration.

George

Edit: Before worrying about the needle, with the needle closed (or no fuel in the tank) it should run off an exhaust prime. If it always starts backwards, flip it backwards or perhaps add an extra head gasket. When adjusting the needle to start, try three turns. If the spraybar is clogged with dried castor oil, it may run richer after a few seconds. It may take several starts to clear the spraybar.

centurikid81

Thanks for the link, I used that source for the prop driver and was very satisfied. I am trying to keep the original tank option if possible.

As for the damage to the needle; it looks as though it was bent, and someone in the past tried to straighten it, and it broke off. The end is jagged and bent and not a nice point like the example a friend showed me.

I'll keep the tubing trick in mind If I'm ever able to find an engine that works (I also have a tee dee .049 that is really gummed up and I have had no luck trying to soak it loose)

I'm trying really hard to get something 1/2a in the air; so far the small engine gods have not been smiling on me.