Rick Lindsey

Hi all, I'm brand new to the hobby (Went out to the flying field on Saturday, one of the local club members was kind enough to let me fly his trainer around in circles on the buddy box and I'm hooked!)

Are smaller models suitable to learn to fly on? I like the idea of smaller planes, whether glow or electric, but everything I've read says that bigger is better when it comes to learning to fly. On the other hand, I've also read that a light wing-loading is key, and I'm assuming small glow planes could easily have similar wing-loadings to park fliers (significantly less than a .40 sized glow trainer).

To top it all off, I'm thinking eventually I might want a Designs that Fly "Biplane!" (my, what a gorgeous looking plane) and was wondering if I would be better off learning on a traditional trainer, or if a small, lightweight plane on an .049 or the like would work as a reasonable trainer.

thanks for any advice!

gusman

I'm kinda new too but i learned on a 70" sig kadet so i can't say that 1/2a is better to learn on. But if you have a club with a big field i'd go with the big ones- they are easier to see and are less sensitive to control since they're bigger. but thats just my couple cents as they say- and 1/2 a you usally have to buy micro stuff which is more expensive usually
gus

DICKEYBIRD

Gawd only knows how many fellers learned to fly on the old Cox Cessna Centurion (Reed .049 powered foam ARF, 2 channels, Mode 1 transmitter no less) .40 trainers are probably easiest, though.

Whatever you decide to learn with, cultivate a relationship with a good, solid, amiable instructor and buy him lotsa beers (or whatever!) He's your most valuable asset.

JT Hammer

I agree with Dickeybird. Just don't try to learn to fly with some underpowered 'electric' ARF (almost ready to fly) bird. I've even observed at least a couple of guys trying to fly a Radio Shack electric with pitiful results....My apologies to anyone who has succeeded with a R.S. model! Lot of luck!!......Pappy

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

DB's right, go hang out at the field and see if one of the guys has a trainer already set up you could beg/borrow/buy/rent/lease or something to learn on, there are small planes, I just finished an ACE whizard from quantum models....... unfortunatley it has rained every freakin day since I finished it and havent been able to fly it yet......welcome to the hobby.....Rog

Bipe Flyer

I think a Designs that Fly "Biplane!" would make a fine trainer with a Norvel .061 or .074. It has low wing loading and handles very well from what I've heard. Ailerons could be added without too much trouble.

BMatthews

Using 1/2A designs to learn is a fine option. There's no one set way to learn to fly models.

For your first model I'd tend to stay away from the Biplane just because if it does have a rough landing it's going to be that much harder to fix. Also bipes are visually "smaller" in the air and the extra wing adds a degree of difficulty in following the attitude of the model. For these reasons I'd hold off on the bipe until your second or third model. Even with an instructor the visual confusion will slow your learning down I suspect.

If you want to stay with a 1/2A model I'd choose something a little bit larger to start with. A lightly built trainer of 40 to 44 inch span would be excellent. The old Craft-Air Butterfly would be excellent as long as you avoided windy days at first.

For ARFS there was a foam thing around here a while back that looked pretty good but I can't remember the name of it. It was a 40 or so inch span EPS high wing cabin jobbie that looked like a great trainer.

Bipe Flyer

I'll play Devil's advocate here Bruce.

Biplanes are structurally stronger than monoplanes and can often take a hard landing with no damage where a monoplane would require repair. Basically, if you do much damage to a biplane it wasn't a hard landing, it was a crash.

There is a very simple way of making a biplane's attitude easy to track; use a different colour on each wing or different colours on the top and bottom of the wings.


Rick:
If you get an instructor, and I recommend that you do, go with what he suggests. If your instructor feels uncomfortable with a plane he's unfamiliar with it will be difficult for him to teach you.

I can't even begin to count the amount of hours I've spend trying to teach someone on a plane that I didn't consider appropriate for training. That's why we now have a club trainer. A new member can learn to fly and then get the plane he wants later.

Remby

My Feedback: (3)

The 1/2a size is great to learn with , you just need the right plane. You have less funds to invest, and as such will not be as worried about really flying it. Sure, some of the things ( small servos, etc) are a bit more, however they only are purchased once and will last for years with care. Even standard servos will work fine, just a bit more weight. Any stable 1/2a will get you flying with less cost, and 20 years from now you may still be flying 1/2a !

Rick Lindsey

Thanks for all the great advice!!! Luckily, if i join the local club then I can get 6 "free" 1-hour training sessions on club equipment. Thereafter I need my own equipment, but I can schedule sessions with anyone willing to train me whenever we're both available. (unfortunately between club dues and AMA membership I'm still looking at $160 up front even before I buy equipment)

I'm still unsure of what I want, though I suspect the longer I wait the more appealing an ARF solution will be *grin*. (if I got a kit now I'd have several months to build it, but if I wait until after I'm halfway through my training sessions...) The biplane is soooooo pretty though! (of course, I'm sure mine wouldn't be quite so good looking, after my ham-fisted assembly and newbie covering job)

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

well, not to argue with scrapp pappy, but lots of folk have gotten started with electrics,,, and once you get a decent radio setup the planes are fairly cheap..personally I'd recommend the GWS line with a stick or a tigermoth now there is a slow flying biplane, you can get the radio, flight pack (rx, servos) a couple of battery paks, and a plane with the motor for ~$200 plus you can fly at the local schoolyard (well, I do) and avoid the club and the AMA fees until you want to go that route, if you have a local hobby shop (lhs) see if there are some park flyers that fly at a regular place....they would be of some help too... but you do need some training...whichever way you go.....Rog

Scully

Hi,

Altough this is outside this particular forum, I think I would reply here.

I learned to fly using an EPP slope/Handlaunch glider (S1-26 from DAW - they are on the WEB Dave's Aircraft Models). This is the easiest way to learn IMHO.

1)You can't break it

2)You are not afraid of breaking it

3)You do not need instructor - just build it - toss it fot half an hour in the park and go on to a slope - you will be fine! You can skip the half an hour in the park bit too - as long as you try a couple of gentle glides first to trim it before your first flight.

4)You can learn to handle it in one day if wind is right as you will have 1.5 hrs stick time on your first day and will feel absolutely at home.

5)Again if wind is right, you will learn to do loops on your first day, fly inverted (not too well) on your first/second. Built with ailerons (I would recommend that!) you will learn the rolls on your second day too.

Only disadvantage is that you will need to buy second Rx, servos and battery for your 1/2A biplane model as you will hate to take them out of your S1-26 and you won't break it - see above (how do I know?).

Note: I am not DAW associate - just a big fun of the model and EPP approach.

Second: a Zagi EPP/LE slope will be almost as good as S1-26 to learn (just a bit more difficult to learn) and also fear-free experience. Need a bit more wind and lift, but a real blust in high winds - rolls. loops, inverted. Cheaper option as well as standard servos will work and kit is something like 35 pounds here/probably 35$ in USA.

Third: there are a couple of EPP 1/2 A (or Norvel 0.074) powered trainers (I think from JK Aerothech) which are supposed to be very good and probably as undestructable. I would do that is I did not have slopes. I'd go for Norvel 0.074, not 0.061/0.049 , if it can handel it.

Just my 2 cents.

My 2 cents.

LoneRanger

My Feedback: (1)

I was also going to suggest the JKAerotech as it is 90% bullet proof and is said to fly realy well.

I have had 3 JKA combat kits all of them were a blast and JKA is a GREAT company to work with.

the kit costs you 30 bucks, and will work with standard servo's however I think hs-81's or the like will fit the bill a bit better-

I actualy would like to get one and put my .074 in it for a screamin plane!


L.R.

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

over here lots of people, especially kids, learn to fly with whats been known for years as the "banana". the kit is completely precut, including hinge slots, and teaches good building practices and is very easy to fly. when the beginner moves on there is an aileron wing kit availiable and a more powerful engine than the cox .049 can also be fitted. it's not the same as a "full-house" .40 sized trainer but it's much cheaper and teaches the all important orientation skills needed to be a good pilot. i say go 1/2A!

dave

wild fred

My Feedback: (3)

hey; the banana kinda resembles the lanier indicator! the jk t-52 trainer is great because of the no way to damage concept; and a great flyer.

zagnut; I like the devo pic and the quote from the good, the bad, and the ugly! pretty funny!

WINANS

Though not everyones cup of tea, the Banana is an awesome kit. It is VERY complete, very well thought out in terms of general construction, needs of the novice, etc. It is a nice kit with which to begin building, excellent quality.

Scott

tiggerinmk

The Designs that fly site:

The online manual states: "Be aware, this is not a plane for beginners. Although the construction is simple and the aircraft flies on rudder-elevator-throttle, this is no trainer"

The online manual...

Nice looking plane though....

Rick Lindsey

Doh! Guess the Biplane! will have to be a second or third (or fourth?) plane... I can still drool on it though!

goldguy

Rick:

I have been flying R/C for many, many, many years and started on my own with 1/2A sized models and was not too successful. Learned to fly on the bigger stuff and then went back to 1/2A once I had the basics down. So, I would cash in on those free lessons.

You will find that many modelers will tell you that 1/2A models are not the way to go, they are hard to fly and all kinds of negative stuff about small models. But, you will find that they themselves probably have never flown the small stuff.

Those on this form probably all have been into big models at one time and maybe still are, but fly small because of the fun they have doing it. Also, I have found that modelers who fly 1/2A, usually become very proficient pilots as compared to those who only fly big models.

The amount of fun you have is directly related how much money you don't spend, so FLY SMALL and have a BALL!

BobHH

My Feedback: (18)

OK Guys, my 2 cents worth. A 1/2A trainer set up correctly makes a very good trainer, low cost, easy to transport, and will run forever on a gallon of fuel. In my kit literature I strongly suggest people to include their name and contact information because the older designs were so stable they could and would fly away if you lost radio contact. A trick I do with my single channel pulser Minnie Mambo is to hand launch her with the transmitter on the ground. On a calm day and a little right trim she will fly a circle up and down with not touching the stick, just a little assistance at landing. The Jr falcon is that stable too! Many of the older 1/2A designs were very stable and taught many people to fly!!

Bob Harris
Early RC Models

Bipe Flyer

I love the way the Junior Falcon flies. One click of rudder trim and you can go have a coffe while the plane flies itself. It's also the best plane I've ever flown inverted without ailerons.

goldguy

Check out www.rcmmagazine.com's plans page for many great 1/2A trainers.

I know some who have been very successful with the RCM Trainer 5, plan #735. Absolutely one of the best and simple to build.

Other Trainers...................RCM 1/2A Basic Trainer, plan #748
Q-Tee, plan # 625
Cricket, plan#1069

Advanced 1/2A Trainers.....1/2A SST, plan #654
Joy Stick, plan #594

Fly SMALL, Have A BALL

ryanrink

I agree with all the positive coments about training with a 1/2a. I learned on an Ace Grasshopper with an .061 and standard servos and reciever. It was a stable flier and pretty crash proof, and the cost to fear ratio is unbeatable. Later, I went on to a .40 trainer for a little while a then a profile fun-fly then back to where my heart is, 1/2a's.

E-Challenged

Opinions, everybody has one or more. I think that you are better off learning on a larger highwing tricycle gear model perhaps .40-size because these are common. If you join a club, somebody has a .40 size trainer with buddy box hookup to use in teaching you to fly. Or they can help you build a popular trainer, get it flight trimmed, and then get you flying on a buddy box. Thousands have thaught themselves to fly often with a succession of small cheap 1/2 models. It's much quicker, cheaper and less painful all around if you join a club, get instruction and become a safe competant flyer that way. When you get good, you can try some 1/2A or small electric designs which are a lot harder to fly than a .40 size trainer.

Been there done that!!!

LoneRanger

My Feedback: (1)

Almost forgot the Sig (LiL) Rascal would make for a great 1/2a plane trainer I mean- it was'nt all that easy to build (was'nt a herr kit) but it sure did fly good-

L.R.