jetpack

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I never know where to post Cox engine questions so here I am.

Is there any place other than MECOA that has both front and rear bearings?

Toad

Boca Bearing

Andrew

[link=http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/]RC Bearings[/link]

jetpack

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Been there. They dont carry the sizes. That's why I was wondering if anyone else had any luck.

My front one seems okay, it's just the rear one that won't flush out yet, so I was just looking around in case.

I've used up too much time trying to clean out the cage on this one, there's rocks in it that make it just grab hard that I can't get out, and even if I did the bearing would be a loud one.

Doc.316

Have you tried the local bearing supply? Around here our bearing supply can get ANY bearing ever made...
Once I was looking for bearings for a HP twin and they pull out a box with WWII markings on it...and now the twin has bearings off of a B29.

jetpack

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Nope I haven't went with anything local yet. Trusting a model supplier first, just so the quality already has a good start I guess - but there are plenty of bearing houses around living close to a lot of heavy industry.

Here's what I've been looking for if anyone stumbles on it I guess...


Bearings
Rear
11 x 22 x 5
.433 x .866 x .197
14.60
Front
7 x 14 x 3.5
.275 x .551 x .138
12.80

The original conquest rear bearing is listed seperate at 25.00 and out of stock.

I have another question as long as I have this torn down but you'll have to wait for me to gather some pics.

DeviousDave

I'm gonna venture out a bit and say that Ron Young can square you away on a set of bearings for the engine.

jetpack

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I haven't contacted Ron yet but aware he's around and can be called on.

I wanted to share what I found with my first purchase of a bench run Cox Conquest. At least I am pretty sure it is a Cox version.

The engine was purchased as an R/C version but converted over with all external C/L parts and bench run, cleaned and oiled and put away so they say.

When I got it, the port looked clean and so did the piston so all looked good on run time, but the backplate was rubbed pretty good. So far maybe not so bad, but the wrist pin seems locked but I havent taken the safety clips out yet till I get more so it's hard to tell but there's a definite swoop in it from wear or bending by sliding the rod back and forth across it so that seems weak. The lower end of the rod looks fine, still round with no burnish and fits the crank pin okay I guess.

At this point I'm thinking it was just a sloppy rod fit causing all the marks but then after cleaning and during inspection I found a digger in the crankpin. There is no raised surface around it, and it almost looks like it had been there all along before grinding. There is no marks inside the case.

Now I thought this motor ate a rod very early in its break-in, but wanted to ask about the crank.

The squiggle is right at the point of where the rod opens for oil. Could this be intentional to help with oil, it's right near the bottom of the stroke...

After looking at the quality of this engine, even if new, it would have kind of disappointed me in a way I'm used to finding Cox quality. The bore seems very roughly cut. Way past what I would call an even swirl finish, it's just a snaggy bore here and there all the way down like it wasn't even honed. Definetly looking for more castor for this one.

So far I'm thinking just an extra set of bearings if not both new, con rod, wrist pin and clips.

The shim set has two paper and two copper gaskets, both thin and thick sizes with the paper ones being the thinnest set. The engine was packed with the thinner copper gasket under the jug. I suppose it would be wise to check the deck height after refurbish.

DeviousDave

My dad also scarred the backplate using an electric starter on his conquest. If that engine has 40 minutes on it, I'd be shocked.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Well, with everything clean I've checked the parts fit of everything and not knowing the tolerances of anything on this motor you're probably guessing closer than I can with this engine. I still have no idea how much compression it has yet, but pushing the piston up and measuring from the top of the sleeve down, and comparing it to the depth the head is cut to, I'm still short about .015". I don't know what it was before it came apart though, but it's encouraging that it is showing a pinch area still.