Jaspur_x

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Andy W,
It was actually the monster brew 20% nitro that I spiked with castor to throw lube up to 25% since some of the lube was synthetic.I had mixed it up a couple months ago , I only mixed up 8 oz. of it.
Thats why I have`nt done any testing yet. Seems like a waste to not use it up before I break into the sig all castor , and for test purposes I want to use something available to all , and uniform in coonsistency , not a home brewed mix.

It did run like a champ though , I ran out 5 tanks all totaled
.
I was trying to fly my ace littlest stick ,( the old frankensteined one). I`m going to switch overto the farcebug ( or the ladybug if I get it builtbefore we get more decent flying weather)for mynext flights.
I got tired of traveling just so I can fly , I prefer to fly inmy own backyard most of the time.

Maybe witha bit more control throw/control surface and a more maneuver friendly wing I would have had less dificulty. Maybe I should just shoot for that instead of switching planes.
It`s too windy today or I would just swapwings, use longer control arms on the servos and try again.

AndyW

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Thanks Jas, so the nitro content was decent but not all that high. You got a good one, that's great.

Jaspur_x

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AndyW,
Monster brew starts our 20% nitro 16% lube (synthetic blend) and I added 1oz castor to an 8oz bottle.
Sure that dilutes the nitro , but the lube ( and the clean-up) is worth it to me.

I was tempted to spike my norvel nvx 35% nitro ( 18%oil), but I will just go with the sig all castor. If it is good enoughforyou , it`s good enough for me.

Are you sure you do not wantto give my engine your own try out? I trust you....................

Jaspur_x

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Wow , I just watched my son get outbid for an 03r/c that is posibly new ,  " still in its original plastic case , doesn`t think it has ever been ran but no guarantees" condition.

He was desperate to have one just like dear old dad , and so he bid $100  with 20 seconds to go, and was outbid in the last seconds.
It was only $41 when he bid , but I told him to bid his max in his first bid.

Poor kid , all that because he wants a carbed model.

I was going to let him run the throttle sleeved model I have , but kids will be kids.................................

DeviousDave

Hmm.... dillemmas dillemmas..... Lemme think 'bout this a bit.

AndyW

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Hi Jas,

Well, my interest is somewhat academic, actually. I have the TD .020 which I got to throttle OK. The VA .020 I'm still not happy with. The Fora that Japanman cobbled together is very good and the G-Mark, as you found out is quite good too. I have a G-Mark .03 that I also need to find a throttle for. The original was used (and highly modified) for the TD .020,,, it's on there for good.

The problem on my end is that I have several dozen projects in line already and am being hampered by family issues for the last few years. Otherwise, my YouTube video count might be 200 by now. [X(]

I'm just glad to hear that you've got a good one to apply to some neat project.

BTW, you mention a winter of helis. That amazing little MSR has kept me on this side of sane this past year. It's given me much air time learning stuff the painless way that I had trouble with for years. Nose in hover especially and right hand circuits. Now, I'm dusting off my LiteMachines machine and am thinking of upgrading it to the .074. I've got the DX6i TX that I'll use to program some of the MSR's mixing into. Then there's the Blade CP Pro that I had no idea as to what I was getting in to. Right there, lots of distractions from noisy power. Just to vindicate myself, I have an ARK 400 bare bones that I got a start on to install the LM .06 engine. The tricky part was rigging up a clutch with the correct gear pitch and tooth count. That's also been done and now,,, well,,, time,,,,

Jaspur_x

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Andy W ,

My oh my if you only lived close by.

I am as academic as they come , in a student capaciity of course. I have been tinkering for years with the little engines as well.

I am rather suprised how well the 03 throttles , but due to the fuel/lube , I ran her a little rich on purpose. But a couple of clicks on the needle andit was very responsive and crisp. Perhaps the low hours , or environmental conditions ,or I just got a really sweet erngine , as you haveno doubt experienced can happen.

I benched the tinkering with teedee`s ( 010 and 020 ) and norvels for now , but I`m still proud of my teedee 049 carb job , but I still have to modify the cox muffler to fit with that carb on there.

I just fell for the 03 a couple years ago ,( now I have 3 , 1=R/c , 2= u/c) and really want to see where it can go performance wise. I have the littlest stick`s of course , my farcebug , and micro stick "to finish", micro bipe "to build", wicked wing "to build" , ( ladybug to build )and the list will grow.

With your skills I would think that you could use a teedee020 nva and copy the 03 carb for on yours? It would eat up gobbs of time though. I am considering it myself , but I`m a bit shy on equipment and skills. That might be a next winter task.

At least we have the glowhead/plug question under control for now. I do want to copy and tinker with it a bit though.


On the heli note;
I am quite in over my head with the cp pro (with gyro) but crash it really well. I can successfully fly the cp , but thats about it , nothing to brag about. The msr is pure genious , I marvel at the mechanics of it. That little gem has kept my sanity in check during these nasty winter months for certain. ( the cat was already a nut job , then I got the msr.......haha my revenge equipment) And it is pretty damage resistant as well.
I picked up a second LMH ( this one is the 074 versionf rom my pal flyingrod; thanks again my friend) to complement my old 061 lmh110.

DeviousDave;
I hear your wheels turning as mine are grinding.

AndyW

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Jaspur,

I haven't run my .03 for quite a few years but as I recall, it did throttle better than the .06. That one benefited from the addition of an adjustable airbleed. The .03 did quite well without it and the feature didn't improve on it that much. Some engines like the Norvel .074 and the OS Max .10 don't need the idle adjusted, some kind of internal magic is in play that provides the perfect setting from full bore to idle, automatically. And as well, you can get one that does better than the others. It's been said that our engines are mechanically simple but dynamically complex.

Many larger engines in the .40 class will only idle reliably when the mixture is set rich. But then they load up with fuel after a short time and transition suffers. If you set the idle mix to get good transition, the idle won't hold for long. This illustrates that the transfer ports don't operate very efficiently at low RPMs and there's always some fuel left behind. That fuel pools at the bottom of the case. Those engines were ported for high power/RPM and at full throttle, fuel transfer was good. But at lower RPMs, not so good. This is why the Big Mig series idles better than the AME series. The former has five, smaller ports, the latter has three larger ports and is the more powerful engine.

On the other hand, you in fact need a small amount of excess fuel in the case because when you advance the throttle, you get an inrush of air and you can get a brief, overlean setting that causes hesitation. That's why the carb in your older car had an accelerator pump. As you stepped on the gas pedal, this device would give your engine an extra shot of fuel. The quicker you stomped on the pedal, the more fuel was injected.

With an engine that has no means to adjust the idle, you can improve on it by reducing the compression ratio. Doing that requires you to lean out the main needle and that in turn leans out the idle mixture and you're good to go. But change the ambient temps or nitro content or oil percentage or even brand of fuel and that happy balance can change. Not to mention glow plugs, brand, heat range etc.

And so it goes, dynamically complex. That's what makes them so intriguing.

Schu

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Jasper,
There is or was a .03 under the engine section on RCU for 60.00 plus shipping that is NIB.
I offered 50.00, but he is firm at 60.00.
Dale

Jaspur_x

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Andy W,
I can`t even remember how my old K&B 40 ran , I only flew that plane once and then gave it to my father , back in `90. That plane confirmed my love for 1/2A and smaller planes.

The dynamic complexities are def. the kickers , but they keep our wheels turning don`t they?

Schu ,

I offered him 60 , but it was promptly listed as sold.

AndyW

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As I recall, the K&B .40 that a clubmate had perfect throttling. You could crack that thing open and it would just bang, like that, accelerate to full power. Much like the raap, raap that a dirt bike will make. It had a Perry carb and it also had a curious characteristic. One time out of two, it would fire off without the glow plug lit. I've had that under rare circumstance, on the bench on 1/2As but this one did it quite regularly. Many times, Gerry would just put the starter to it after a generous prime without the glow igniter. If it didn't go, THEN he'd light it up. Quite amazing to watch.

Jaspur_x

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I can`t recall , but maybe that is why I can`t recall having any dificulties with the K&B 40 engine either.
I wish I could get the 03 at about 25,000 with that sort of throttle response.


My favorite atv runs like that once it is warmed up, it took some time to get tuned the way I like it , but instant throttle response. I can go out on the pavement and just crack the throttle and do doughnuts all day.
When I was breaking in the motor after a rebuild, my girlfriend at the time was headed out in her car. She stopped at the end of the driveway and I jumped at the chance to make her sweat. Ihit third gear and started to stab the throttle , but only up to 1/4 throttle for the break in. So picture this , I`m doing full drift doughnuts around her car , just relentlessly stabbing the throttle but only up to 1/4 throttle , just ring ring ring ring and tires just howling away.
Imagine if your daily driver car would run that good , to just burn tires off at 1/4 throttle.

Jaspur_x

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I decided since I have a spair G-mark 03 U/C that I already made a throttle sleeve for that I`d go ahead and break it in , she`s running the second run right now with the stock glowhead on. Only one more run and its good to start testing on.
I`m going to run the sig all castor fuel exclusively.

Then I can start testing and comparing the r/c and u/c , and the heads and performance diferences.

I forgot how loud they can get without a muffler , I may want to switch my design to a muffler/throttle design like the lite machines company did for the norvel 061/074`s

Jaspur_x

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The stock G-mark tankmount will meltdown during break-in if you don`t use the muffler , so use a better idea than just regular ( cox )style throttle sleeve.

Jaspur_x

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FFkiwi , have you come up with anything on the spi situation yet? This has me curious to test out , while I`m testing and tinkering anyway.
I have been thinking on it some , since I now have a spare, trying to figure out how to make some spacers.
I was hoping somebody would save me the trouble of thinking on it , but if I must.............................................. ..