Mr67Stang

Rog just sent me a blink that I can use for the upcomming reedie race. I have this Cox engine but, I'm not sure which it is. Rog said it might be a Black Widow but could not be sure so, I thought I would post a picture.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Looks like a regular Baby Bee to me.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Yep, babebee, sorry I didnt think about that, babe bee has like a 3-4cc tank,,the GB or BW would have an 8cc tank...Rog

build light

I hate to be the one to tell you but you can easily mod the tank to allow use of a larger external tank. Still while the Baby Bee will fly the Blink, it won't provide exciting performance because it only has one port and is entry level performance.

Robert

Will Sgarlat

See the split exhaust ports? The extra metal restricts the exhaust a little. I think that the engine is meant to be used in free flight "Texaco" events, where the engine runs a little slower and for a longer time. A question is whether it's an 049 or a .051?

ChopperMike

I didn't notice that before. The dual exhaust slits cylinders have dual transfer ports as well.

I'm not aware of .051 cylinders with dual exhaust slits and it doesn't matter much anyway since the difference in performance is negligible.


Mike

Jaspur_x

My Feedback: (1)

That would be .049 baby bee, a good little runner. Cox put them on the R/C ezbee for example.
The .051`s never had dual exhaust slots , they were designed for performance engines only.

Jared

Mr67Stang

I apreciate all the info guys. Thank you.

Rog mentioned something when we thought it might be a BW about having to remove the backing and reroute an internal fuel line so it will run upright in a R/C aplication. Will that still hold true with this model?

I am painfully unfamiliar with these little engines as I mostly adapted my small planes to fly with OS .10's If the little BB is not competitive in racing, so be it... I will just have to use my superior flying skill to beat those weenies

Remember, rub'n 's race'n [>:]

Mr Cox

Yes you can reroute the fuel line inside the tank to have the fuel pickup in the lowest part, rather than in the 90° position that is used in CL. If the engine has already seen fuel the fuel line can be quite hard and might need replacement for the rerouting to work (xenalook has these).

What you have is the most powerful one out of the BabeBee series (as far as I know), should run just fine. Compared to an OS .10 you'll have a major reduction in weight (engine mount and tank is already there!) and you'll need a few smaller props...

ChopperMike

It is a Babe Bee but it's not all original. The metal backplate/tank and the dual exhaust slit cylinder are from different eras.




Mike

Mr Cox

Not that it's very important but I have one just like that. Single fill tube in the backplate and one went whole, dual slits and dual ports in the cylinder, so nothing strange to me... [sm=rolleyes.gif]

build light

Um, no, I missed that> Doh!!!
Sorry folks!
Thanks for helpng me stay straight.

Robert

windy city

Give it a quick clean up and looking over, mount it on a test stand and fire that puppy up!

Than you can tell us what you have. LOL
Bet it will move a Blink around just fine[X(]

gcb

My vote goes for the Standard Babe Bee. If I remember correctly, the slit exhaust was used to keep grass, sticks, etc. out of the cylinder. Just before the slits, Cox would weld a mesh screen over the exhaust for that purpose.

The spring starter on the Texaco Jr. was the friction-free type, and the tank was anodized red. It also used the Texaco glow head that has extra cooling fins.

I would suggest you do not make mods to it, If you need more power, sell it to a collector and buy a more powerful engine.

Of course, your engine, your choice. Enjoy it.

George

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

I'm thinking...if it has a 2 port cyl. (later version w/ slits ) then the performance should be similar to the earlier "Super Bee", shouldn't it?

I made a few of those myself years back...just messin' around swapping parts. The 2 port cyl. Baby Bee / Super Bee is about as powerful as a Golden Bee...just w/ a smaller tank, and the std. venting set-up.

ChopperMike

Both the dual slit type exhaust and the mesh type were to prevent burns. I don't quite understand that, I never got burned off my Cox engines as a kid, but that's how they evolved.


Mike

Mr67Stang

In true redneck fashion... "Well awright then."

Help me out here guys. Why am I geting about 1 minute run time on this engine? To rich still? I'm not used to spinning 20K. Youtube video Linked.

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1Po1n8R7aU]VIDEO[/link]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1Po1n8R7aU[/youtube]

Mr67Stang

Oh, and my needle was about 2 turns out there at the end.

Mr Cox

Well it is not spinning at 20k and it shouldn't either, what prop do have on in the video?

Sounds a bit rich to me, even after leaning it a little, might spin at about 14-15000rpm (?)
Can't remember the run time on the small tank but I'm guessing you should get about 2 minutes, it also depends on the fuel you're using. Higher nitro last shorter...

Mr67Stang

Actual rpms bounced between 14500 and 20000 on my tach readings but I don't take to much stock in that. The prop is a 5x3 Thimble Drome and the fuel is 15% with castor added to bring oil up to ~20%+

Mr Cox

15% Nitro ought to be enough but it is on the low end, oil should be only castor at about 20%.
20k doesn't sound right, and it wasn't revving at that from what I could hear in the video. If it ever does hit 20k you will notice it...

Might just needs some more run time. Did you check the fuel line inside the tank?
If it is at 90° or has fallen off you will only use half the tank. Another thing to check is the tiny black gasket in the center that should seal towards the backplate. If there is a problem here it will not a neadle setting through out the tank. If the engine has been run before you might also have to clean the read. The brass ones tend to corrode against the mating surface and simply needs some polishing to seal again.

When it dies you can check the amount of fuel left by turning the engine upside down and suck the fuel out with a syringe, or if you use a small enough syringe for filling you'll notice in the next tank fill.

Happy tinkering!

Mr67Stang

Allrighty then. I now have the needle at 1.75 turns out and it seems to like it. I moved it out to where I was getting good light on the back side of the prop and got a tach reading of 15900-16300 RPM. I am getting 1:15-1:30 min runs out of it and the pick up tube is directed to the bottom off the tank... I need a bigger tank. It starts up right away though

Yuu

Put a 6x3 or a 6x4 prop on her and slow down the rpm. EACH rpm uses fuel... the faster the engine turns, the faster you use up that small amount of fuel in the tank. You want 'thrust' to fly, and slower rpm for duration. And make sure the fuel pick-up tube is at the bottom center of the tank, not half way up the side for CL flying [you only use half the fuel if the pick-up is half way up] Heck, try a 7x3 wood prop too. Joe Wagner always used a 7x3 on his Bees for CL flying. I had a 66" glider that used a 5.5x4 prop for the best rpm [read that 'pull'] and a 5.5x4.5 too, which both/each that pulled that big glider around long enough for me to learn how to fly RC. Something wrong with your tach... or it's the sun reflections. My Bees won't go past 12,000 with any prop on 15% fuel. ALL four of my Golden Bees have single intake port and dual exhaust ports, no slots; same as the BebeBee but with the bigger Golden 8cc fuel tank. The dual two-slots exhaust came later. Another thing... make a skinny nose 2x2 for your test stand. The prop-wash air backs up at your plywood sheel and gives false readings, as the air isn't 'flowing' same as when the plane is flying. Just my 2 cents.

Mr67Stang

I just tried a 6x4 Zinger wood prop and a 7x3 APC and both props gave 9900 RPM and about 1:40 runs.

zippome

She sounded healthy to me, of course it's been awhile since I've heard one fired up. Sure  is good to hear it again.This whole winter thing stinks! I miss the smell of castor oil in the moning!