DeferredDefect

I have a freeflight model ("Titch") with a new Cox 049 Surestart as the power source,
It is mounted upright with a piece of fuel tubing to to the tank, made from clear plastic tubing, with the line entering the bottom, and a vent hole at the top.
The tank is mounted as high up the fuselage as it will go.

The engine will not draw fuel, I am not seeing any coming out of the ports. nor will it fire at all. Fuel in the line does not move either.

Why is this, and what are some suggested needle valve settings for starting out?
I would post pictures but the internet is too slow.

Thank you,
Graeme

ProBroJoe

Graeme, it sure sounds like there's something plugging the spraybar, either that, or you're just not opening the needle far enough - 3 & 1/2 to 4 turns out from gently closed is a good starting point.

Are you performing a port-prime (squirting a few drops or fuel onto the piston with a closed exhaust port)? Is your glow battery lighting the plug to a bright orange color? What are you doing for fuel? SureStarts will start on as low as 0-5% nitro, but they won't run worth a darn. Consider 15% Nitro and 20% oil (mostly castor) a minimum.

If your engine won't run briefly on a port prime, or still fails to draw fuel, then pop the back plate off and check that the reed is free to move and/or not stuck open /closed with debris. If this is a new engine, it would also be a good idea to rinse the crankcase out well as many people have discovered machining swarf still inside.

Let us know how you make out,

-Joe

hllywdb

Hi Graeme,

Make sure the center line of the tank is even with the center (prop shaft) of the engine.
Unscrew the needle 3 1/2 to 4 turns out and make sure you can blow though the fuel line from the tank end.
If you are filling the tank with a fuel bulb, after you have the line connected back, use the bulb to blow back through the vent line into the tank and you should see the fuel taveling back up to the motor. If not, you have a blocked spray tube.
As PBJ said, prime the engine through the port (under the piston) and it should at least kick. If not, you have a bad plug or bad battery or plug wire.
If it starts but fails to keep running, follow PBJ's advice on the reed check.

lildiesel

Besides checking and resolving the possible fuel draw and tank placement issues, the engine really needs to be port primed with a small squeeze bulb or, better yet, a syringe with a fine needle filed flat at the tip for safety. On a Sure Start this will be a fine mist through the open exhaust port. Make sure the filament in the glowhead is orange/yellow hot when the plug clip is on. Two NEW alkaline D cells wired in parallel will take care of that. Don't even bother opening the needle valve until you can get the the engine to start briefly on a prime. Then open the needle 4 turns and try again. If the engine starts and runs you can needle down for higher RPM and smoother running and pull the plug clip off.

Mr Cox

I don't quite understand the question, the sure starts have a "choke tube" if you block the intake while turning the engine over it should draw fuel in the line. If not then there is a blockage at the needle and/or the reedvalve is contaminated, both of these can happen very easily with all castor fuel.

Tom Nied

Exactly, and it demonstrates whether or not the engine is getting fuel.

Cox International

My Feedback: (10)

Here is a link to basic operating instructions:

http://reviews.ebay.ca/Cox-049-Engin...00000005479141

Also, make sure that you have the proper fuel. Here is a link to a fuel guide:

http://reviews.ebay.ca/Cox-1-2A-Fuel...00000009926488

Cheers
Bernie

Inferno7600

all my engines do this