The original had a brass or bronze
reed valve. If you are going to run
the engine replace it with the new
mylar one. Otherwise keep it. It
is a sure sign of a vintage engine.
The same goes for the spring inside
the fuel tube.
The prop screw is a 5-40. Don't try
to put the wrong screw in there. You
probably need to go to a machine shop
to get a 5-40 screw. It probably originally
had a stud and a cup shaped nut/spinner
mount and rubber spinner. Good luck
finding them.
If the shaft is froze, you might need to
drive it out. Put a screw in the front and
turn it all the way in. Leave some space.
between the screw head and the drive plate.
Remove the tank, cylinder and piston,
and rest the crankcase on a board.
Tap the screw head to drive the crank
out of the drive plate. Screw torque
will re-seat it later.
As I recall the babe bee didn't have
flats on the cylinder fins for the special
wrench. The wrench stuck across the
exhaust ports. It kind of worked ok,
but risked damaging the cylinder.
You might need to heat the crankcase
to remove the cylinder.
The brassy color on the tank back may
be plating. Using abrasive may remove
it. Look in the venturi hole from the
tank side (where the o-ring goes) to see
if it is aluminum under the brass.
The carb hole may have a screen over
it. It is probably quite delicate now. Be
gentle with it. I don't think it can be replaced.
Jenny