Skyhawk940. Your "thought" about applying glass cloth to the foam cores has been done in many variations. The most common procedure is to place cloth between the balsa skins, and the foam cores. This is done to strengthen the wing. Next would be to just glass the foam, which might require significant sanding. What was done before vacuum bagging got popular, was to apply glass and resin to the foam, and then apply a very smooth shiny Mylar film over the glass and smooth it out. Once the resin had cured, the Mylar was peeled off. The problem with this, and other glass skinned wings is that they are heavy. Today if I was determined to make a glass skinned wing I would vacuum bag it. The last two airplanes I built were EF1 racers that had 2oz.glass cloth between the foam, and balsa skins. They were vacuumed bagged without the shucks.
RWard Sorry but I don't understand your response to my inquiry of how you keep from distorting a thin airfoil when skinning a wing with contact cement, without the shucks. Specifically I don't understand your comment about shaping Formica with heat. Are you suggesting that Formica is a desirable wing skin material? And I do have experience with bonding laments (like Formica) to counter tops.
Countilaw. I didn't say that the procedure would warp (twist) the wing. I said I was concerned that it would distort the airfoil.
I'm not familiar with the Stafford P51 wing, but I know that the Stafford Formula 1 Minnow had an under cambered airfoil at the tip. A lot of those Minnows were built with 3M77 with the skins applied with the wing cores in the shucks. If the Stafford P51 has an under cambered airfoil, I would continue to recommend vacuum bagging over contact cement, particularly if there aren't
any shucks.