RCU Forums - View Single Post - Thunder tiger mirage - anyone have one? I need motor/mounts/clutch dimensions.
Old 08-11-2018, 12:28 PM
  #17  
Iceberg86300
 
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Originally Posted by tcharger
Associated mgt
Thunder tiger mta4
Wow those things are identical! Do you remember when they became sister brands? I used to race RC10's competitively when they were still using aluminum tub chassis. During that time Associated came out with the game changing RC10 GT, which basically started the 1/10th nitro trophy truck class. Shortly thereafter racing just became too expensive for me/my family, so I picked up the Mirage. At the time it was a competitive option since the track I ran at had a class with an engine rule which eliminated the need to spend a fortune on something like Nova's just to think about being competitive. I raced the Mirage here & there but I got it b/c it was a tank.

Damn air filter came off and it pulled 2 grains of sand in which destroyed the piston/sleeve & sized the motor. Otherwise I'd still be running it.

A drill works fine, as long as it's modern and preferably lipo powered. An old 12 volt job won't spin fast enough. I make my shafts out of long L-shaped 6mm ball end hex keys($1.50 on ebay vs. $10 for a replacement starting shaft) and I just cut the ends off.
This sounds perfect. Exactly what I was planning to do. I'm a mechatronics engineer so I was also thinking of making a starting box/shaft drive combo out of a lipo, spare heli motor, esc, and some creative electronics & a spare heli main gear. That would give me 0-3k RPM out of the 0-30k RPM from the motor & ton of torque. But that's another project so I'll use the drill in the meantime.

So it looks like we're at a shaft/pull motor w/mirage mounts (or something that would work), whatever head you want to put on it(I really don't care so whichever one you want the least is fine), clutch & 14t bell, whatever you want to include for a manifold & pipe, & hopefully a gas tank (4" center to center with the holes on a slight angle towards the front center of the car when the tank is squared up in the car is the most important dimension & I can measure the offset of the holes to nail the dimensions down if needed, with the height of the holes not being a big deal as I can just make new standoffs), a wing, and finally, a body if you'd like to trade for my unpainted copy, for ~$90 plus what you want for the fuek tank/wing.

And take your time digging around, just keep chatting I really enjoy talking about this stuff. I've been running my old Traxxas nitro 4tec around but handling sucks & I've been trying to get the "pro" ball diffs adjusted to help it out but i just plowed it into a curb at ~40+ MPH. Bent the chassis slightly but destroyed the differential carrier which is NLA from Traxxas. I might just sell it after rebuilding it with the parts floating around the net. It's un-raceable even with all the hop-ups, the 2-speed sucks & just getting it to run in a straight line under power & braking has become too much of a hassle. Or maybe I'll turn it into a race project when I have access to a machine shop.

What are the diffs like on the "newer" nitro cars? The Mirage has a straight planetary setup but everything I see now is running cross pins and bevel gears. Are there any ramps on the case/pins for torque vectoring or are they just a different design that are still tuned completely with different weight oil/grease? I see fiorini torsen type diffs that need rebuilding constantly for $200 a pop & that just seems completely insane!