Hopping back over to the wing for a bit, while the F2 former is accessible I took the opportunity to drill the holes for the wing dowels. I used an extra long drill bit intended for running wiring in walls. It is a 1/4 inch bit available in the big box home improvement stores. The wing is located in the saddle using care to make sure it is square to the fuselage and in the desired position. The holes are then drilled using F2 as a guide. For best results do your best to keep the dowels parallel to each other.
Sometimes I get on a roll with building and forget to take photos. I missed out on joining the wing halves. With this short kit the W1 root ribs are a thicker and provide material for sanding to fine tune the fit of the wing halves. The wings should be joined so that the upper surface is flat across the top of the spars. The root to tip taper will provide the small amount of dihedral shown on the plans. If the root ribs are glued square to the upper spar then little, if any, adjustment will be needed. Although I did not use a wing jig in construction the holes provided in the ribs are handy. If the wing is straight you will be able to look through the jig holes down the length of the wing from root to tip. The other convenience of the jig holes is that you can insert a bit of dowel in the holes as alignment pins when you glue the wing halves together. In the photo below you can also see the addition of a bit of carbon fiber. This is just a bit of Dave Brown carbon fiber tape that I used to tie the wing halves together. It's not in the plans but extra strength for very little extra weight. The back halves of the wing dowels are anchored in plywood plates glued to the back of the spars. I used epoxy with a fillet of thick CA. The plans mention "false ribs" that apparently fit on the top and bottom of the wing dowels but the false ribs themselves are not shown on the plans. Assuming that the purpose of these ribs was to strengthen the wing dowels I just added some 3/16 inch stock to the top and bottom of each dowel. This is due to an omission in the RCM plans. After I got done with this part of the wing I went back and looked at several of the sets of Kaos plans available on the internet. The RCM Super Kaos 40 plans show the false ribs but the 60 size plans do not. All that said, I think with the 3/16 inch stock added to the top and bottom of the dowels they will be sufficiently rigid. My plates anchoring the rear of the wing dowels are a little larger than shown on the plans but I wanted to tie them to the root ribs.
