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  1. #1
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    PA Addiction X??

    Any one flying the Addiction X? Just checking on setups.

    Steve
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  2. #2

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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Just finished assembling an X. This is my first PA model and I'm quite impressed with the engineering, the quality, and the flight characteristics. Set mine up with the rudder servoup front and triple rates up to 45 for ailerons and elevator, (throw to limits on rudder).
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  3. #3
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    RE: PA Addiction X??


    ORIGINAL: jknox

    Just finished assembling an X.Β* This is my first PA model and I'm quite impressed with the engineering, the quality, and the flight characteristics.Β* Set mine up with the rudder servoΒ*up front and triple rates up to 45 for ailerons and elevator, (throw to limits on rudder).
    What is your flight time on the 2200ma battery?
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
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  4. #4

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    RE: PA Addiction X??



    I'm usinga countdown timer set for 10 minutes and landing with 3.6 - 3.7 / cell. That's with fairly conservative flying (some hovering), and using an APC 13 x 6.5E propeller (as PA states the VOXT40-X is on backorder). I bought two of the PA V2 Lipos @ $48 and 3 ofEPBuddy's Glacier Lipos @ $20 and I get about the same flight time from either. I also think the Glaciers come down cooler than the V2s do, however, the V2 are a bit lighter. I was able to achieve recommended CG with battery set alittle foward (about 1"), on the battery tray and found PAs recommended CG on the money.


  5. #5
    Steve's Avatar
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    RE: PA Addiction X??


    ORIGINAL: jknox



    I'm usingΒ*a countdown timer set for 10 minutes and landing with 3.6 - 3.7 / cell.Β* That's with fairly conservative flying (some hovering), and using an APC 13 x 6.5E propeller (as PA states the VOXΒ*T40-X is on backorder).Β* I bought two of the PA V2 Lipos @ $48 and 3 ofΒ*EPΒ*Buddy's Glacier Lipos @ $20 and I get about the same flight time from either.Β* I also think the Glaciers come down cooler than the V2s do, however, the V2 are a bit lighter.Β* I was able to achieve recommended CG with battery set aΒ*little foward (about 1''), on the battery tray and found PAs recommended CG on the money.

    I bought an extra Vox T40 from Heliproz when I placed my order yesterday. I think they still have a few if you need one. I've got a couple of Turnigy 3S 30C's I'm planning on using along with the PA battery that will come with the Pro version. I"ve heard that the plane is a little fragile and I'll need to be carful how I pick it up. Have you had any issues?
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    No issues regarding the strength of the airframe. The plane is extremely light and not a lot of material in the lower stringers, but because it is so light there isn't a lot of pressure on those stringers from a cradle or a hand and there's a lot of carbon strips and rods throughout the airframe. There is a recommendation to remove the canopy gripping at specific points due to light construction. Is this your first model from PA?

  7. #7
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Yep, this is my first one. My buddy has one of the katana's that he has been flying for a couple of years and he lets me fly it on ocasion. We have to use a school or side road to fly over here, and it lands great anywhere. It should show up tomorrow. I'm planning on logging the build. Hope every thing is good when it arrives.
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    You have three choices of rudder setup. Direct linkage with servo rear, pull-pull with servo centered in fuselage, or pull-pull with servo up front under motor. I needed mine up front for weight distribution and I think it's nearly impossible to setup the pull-pull in the center anyway because the fuselage is too narrow to work in. I'm curious what servos you're going with. This was my first model to seal hinge gaps, but it was quite easy and the instructions state not to even think about skipping sealing the gaps.

    You've seen the flight videos - It's so light, It'll slow down to where you think it's going to drop out of the sky because it can't maintain lift, but it doesn't, and not a hint of wing rock. Hope yours comes in good shape. Mine had a big tear through both boxes, but the model survived OK. In fact the covering was perfect - haven't yet touched it with an iron, and all the panels, ailerons, rudder, elevator arrived perfectly straight. Best condition I've ever received an ARF. Good Luck on your build - Hope to see it posted.

  9. #9
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    RE: PA Addiction X??


    ORIGINAL: jknox

    You have three choices of rudder setup.Β* Direct linkage with servo rear, pull-pull with servo centered in fuselage, or pull-pull with servo up front under motor. Β*I needed mine up front for weight distribution and I think it's nearly impossible to setup the pull-pull in the center anyway because the fuselage is too narrow to work in. Β*I'm curious what servos you're going with.Β* This was my first model to seal hinge gaps, but it was quite easy and the instructions state not to even think about skipping sealing the gaps.
    Thats interesting on the rudder servo. I'll have to realy take a look at that. The Pro kit comes with the Hitec 82MG's. I hope they will do the job. I can always swap them out for the 5085's in the future. I'll post some photos soon. Thanks for the help. I'm planning on deflecting the surfaces before I glue the hinges in so I get the right gap. Then sealing the gap with covering.
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
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  10. #10
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    My Addiction showed up Wednesday and I've been working on it. I've got lots of photos I have to re-size so it may take a while. Here are a couple. Every thing showed up in great shape. I started by opening up all the holes in the fuselage that needed to be opened.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  11. #11
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Here are a few photos of the soldering that needs to be done. I use a large soldering gun for the deans connectors and a small variable iron for the servo wires. Make sure you use good flux past and tint the wires before soldering. Always make sure the solder flows good on both parts.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  12. #12
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next I opened up the stab area to get it glued in. The instructions show getting the wings done first, but I like to get the stab glued in without any hinging done. Just makes it easier to check level and square. I had to do some sanding to get the stab level with the wings, and its not the easiest thing to do on an arf. It was off quite a bit.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  13. #13
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Stab glued in with epoxy, square and level with the wings.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
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  14. #14
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Hinging was a bit of a strugle. Not all the slots lined up and they were too tight. I used my hobby knife to open these up a little and get them aligned. This is such a light frame, you realy need to be carefull how much presure you put on the frame. Go slowly.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
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  15. #15
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next I decided to install the rudder. First gluing in the controle horn with epoxy. Rough up the center section with sandpaper before gluing in. Also make sure to glue it in square to the surface. Again, hinging was not as easy as expected. There are two smaller hinges with the ardware pack. These go on the rudder. Make sure not to use the larger ones where the smaller ones go. I aslo glued in the tailwheel at this time. Make sure you check you tailwheel before gluing it in. Mine was twisted just a bit so I had to straiten it before installing it into the rudder.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  16. #16
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next I glued on the motor box and test fit the Thrust 40 Motor. There is a clip on the prop side of the motor at the base of the shaft that is larger than the hole in the motor mount. I used my dremmel tool with a teardrop grinding tool to enlarge the motor side of the motor mount until there was no binding on the motor. Make sure you don't overlook this.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  17. #17
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next I went ahead and got started on the wings. Again, hinging was a little more work. The pro kit came with the Hitec 82MG's. I needed to enlarge one of the servo bays just a tad. I also had to take just a little balsa top sheeting off where the rubber grommet for the servo sits on the carbon plate. Re-sealed around the servo bay. I pre-drilled the servo mounting holes with the Dubro center hole drilling tool that the instructions mention. After drilling and mounting the servo, take it back off and use some thin CA to set the threads in the carbon and re-install.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  18. #18
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    The next step was to build the aileron controle rods. This is where I ran into some trouble. I used a small wire to gage the depth of the plastick ball link end and the metal clevis. After measuring and cutting the carbon rod to length, I glued one end into the metal clevis and started to glue the other end into the plastic ball link. The hole in the threaded end of the ball link is too small for the carbon rod. I could only get it in about half way. The instructions also say to use a dremmel tool to make a few notches in each end of the rod so the glue sticks better. After forcing the plastic ball link end more onto the carbon rod, I broke it right off,#@##*#**#@*. A trip to the hobby store got me a .08 inch carbon rod. The stock rod is .07 inch. I got very lucky and was able to drill the carbon rod out of the ball link and reuse it. It was a little oversize, but the .08 rod fit good. I used a 1/16 inch bit on the ball link and to get the glue out of the metal clevis end. This time I only notched the carbon rods about 1/4 inch down on both ends. Then glued the rods into the plastic ball links first, set the controle surfaces up for neutral with tape, measured the proper length of the carbon rods, cut them and glued them into the metal clevis ends and all was good. The Carbon horns were also a bit of a stuggle, "next post".
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  19. #19
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    I installed all the carbon fiber controle horns before I glued in the hinges. I roughed up the bottoms of the horns with sand paper and glued them in with epoxy. The slots that these horns go in were too small and too narrow. Trying to get the horns in was quite a task. I used a hobby knife to enlarge the slots, but it was not easy. I think there is some carbon fiber in there some where that is a pain to open up. The aileron horns would only go in half way, then hit some thing solid. It took a while to get it done without over sizing the holes. A needle file was used to open up the hole for the clevis screw. The instructions also recomend this method. I also soaked the metal clevis's in a bowl of alcohol to remove any oils before gluing them to the carbon rods.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  20. #20

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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Nice log Steve. I too had to sand the horizontal stab opening quite a bit to achieve level with wings. I wonder if all are off in the same direction. The hinges were a pain on mine too - Mostly becausethe openings were where the green covering overlapped and I couldn'tsee through the two layers. The CF linkages are a bit difficult because there's no room for error -only adjustmentis servo subtrim. Mine turned out fine, but a lot of time went into them. But it was all worth it because I currently have the most unique model at my field. Everyone comments on how slow and stable it flies. I've got about 25-30 flights on mine now and I'm getting comfortable with it. I'm a rank 3D amateur and I'm hovering as long as I care to, waterfalls, harriers, knife edge - all dead easy. Also extremely stable and controllable flying low and slow on max throws (unlike my big fuel planes).

    Are you putting the rudder servo up front? You'll likely be tail heavy if you don't - or use a spinner (I'm just running a prop adapter) I think you'll be quite happy with the Hitec 82s - Mine have plenty of power and speed for 3D throws. Keep the posts coming - I'm ready to hear how you like the flight characteristics.

    Oh, and I had the same issue with the circlip on the motor. They say not to enlarge to opening for the shaft. What the **** do they expect you to do? Motor can't turn unless you do.

  21. #21
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Thanks jknox,
    I did put the servo up front on the motor box. I can't see how any adjustmet could be made with it in the fuselage. I'll also post some photos of that. I've got a bunch more to resize and post. I'm aslo just using the prop addaptor, no spinner yet. And I'll deffinatley be posting some flight data.
    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  22. #22
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    The next step for me was to get the elevator servo ready to install. The Pro kit came with some extra servo wire. I thought it should be an extention, but this will work. The instructions say you will need a 22.5 inch extention, so I cut 22.5 inches of wire and soldered it inbetween the servo and plug. I cut the servo plug wire about halfway down the wire, stripped and tined all the ends, got the heat shrink on the wires and soldered every thing together. I used the same method for installing the elevator servo. Drilled the holes with the servo in place using the Dubro tool. Removed the servo and CA'ed the holes. Re-installed the servo. I also used the same method on the servo controle rod. Gluing the plastic ball link first, then measuring and cutting to length. I ran the servo wire down the bottom first and that won't work due to the rudder pull pull. The elevator servo wire needs to run down the center of the fuselage. I zip tied it in a couple of places.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  23. #23
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next I got the rudder servo installed in the motor box. Same method as before. Installing the pull-pull cables can be a little tricky. This is how I did it. First, get the carbon rudder servo arm installed on the servo, along with the pull-pull hardware. I only ran about 1/4 inch of the long metal eye posts into the clamps and slightly tightened them. The eyelets have to be opened up slightly so you can slide the pull-pull cable onto them. There is a crimped end of the pull-pull cable and a non crimped end. I cut the slots in the back of the fuselage for the cable exits and installed the eyelets onto the rudder horn. Again, these need to be opened slightly so you can slide the pull-pull cable on. I also used a needle file to slightly enlarge the holes in the rudder horn. Next I dropped the crimped end of the cables in from the rear, or exit slots first, and hooked the crimped ends up to the servo eyelets. Making sure the rudder is taped in the neutral position, and the servo is also in the neutral position, I hooked the non-crimped cable ends to the rudder eyelets. Pulling the extra cable through the crimp I tightened up one side and crimped it. Then the other side. Its a lot easier to tighten and crimp back at the rudder. Once I got the cables installed and crimped, I loosened the servo eyelets and made sure there was just a little tension on the cables before fully tightening them in the clamps. Worked great this way. make sure to follow the instructions on the clamps that need to be installed onto the carbon rudder servo arm.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  24. #24
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    A ProBro told me not to use velcro on the battery tray. You will break the tray trying to remove the battery. He said to just use sand paper, and the velcro on the battery itself will hold the battery in place with a velcro strap. This is the method I used. I have some Great Planes sanding bars that use the Great Planes self adheasive sand paper rolls. I cut a stip off the roll and stuck it to the battery tray. And I can say it works very well.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94

  25. #25
    Steve's Avatar
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    RE: PA Addiction X??

    Next step for me was to get the wings on the plane. My wing tube was 1/8 inch too long. Make sure you don't try and force the wings on with the tube too long or you will damage the wings. I just ran a piece of tape around the tube 1/8 inch down and sanded it to the tape. Nice and square. The wing attatchment method does not work for me. I've got to be able to remove my wings for storage and the two plastic wing screws are way too difficult to install and remove. So I made some new bolts with a spring retainer. Picked up some 4/25mm screws and cut the heads off. Next I used my dremmel tool to grind a nice flat center on the screws, then dremmeled a notch into the end for the spring. I wrapped the threaded end with teflon tape to make them fit nice and tight and installed them in the wings . I did not epoxy these in, as I've done before. I don't think there is any need to. Install the wings and used a spring with the right amount of tension to keep them in place. Works great and I've used this method before.
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    AKA,, \"The Spleen\"
    If you want to see my Super Power,,, pull my finger.
    CubBrotherhood #94


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