Attaching the spars to a 3DX
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Attaching the spars to a 3DX
When building a 3DX, does one attach the 4mm thick spars to the fuselage by simply sticking them on or should one use a router to cut a groove for them to sit in. What glue works best hot-glue or epoxy? If on cuts a groove, how deep should it be in 6mm depron?
Should one round the leading edges of the Depron?
Should one round the leading edges of the Depron?
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
I used a peice of triangle stock and a razor blade mounted at an angle to
cut a 45 degree angle, then flipped it around and cut another 45 degree angle to
make a v shaped notched in the wing and fuse. Then take the end of the CF tube
and slowly pull it through the v. This will make a nice channel for the rod. Then expoxy it in.
cut a 45 degree angle, then flipped it around and cut another 45 degree angle to
make a v shaped notched in the wing and fuse. Then take the end of the CF tube
and slowly pull it through the v. This will make a nice channel for the rod. Then expoxy it in.
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
That's the best way for the servos. Make sure the cutots are super snug and then just put a few beads of epoxy on the opposite side of the flange and they stay in fine. With the battery you should secure it to the side of the fuse before the wing with industrial velcro. Mike
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Not sure.
Probably start with the GWS 300C and the 1280 prop, as described on the site.
I will probably go gor LiPos. I am looking at the 2100 3 cells though. I have a Zagi and want to run them in the Zagi also.
I will probably need two or maybe three to get the CG right on the Zagi
Will the 2100 be too heavy for the 3DX?
Is the Himax brushless? What gearbox are you using?
Does your 3DX pull out from a hover easily?
Are you running seperate servos for each aeleron?
Probably start with the GWS 300C and the 1280 prop, as described on the site.
I will probably go gor LiPos. I am looking at the 2100 3 cells though. I have a Zagi and want to run them in the Zagi also.
I will probably need two or maybe three to get the CG right on the Zagi
Will the 2100 be too heavy for the 3DX?
Is the Himax brushless? What gearbox are you using?
Does your 3DX pull out from a hover easily?
Are you running seperate servos for each aeleron?
#9
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
The 2100 3S weighs around 4.5 oz. It's a little haevy. The Himax are indeed brushless the D GWS gear is 6.61 to 1. It's really hard to get the 3DX's light. I built a new one yhis weekend using only 6MM Depron and the airframe weighs around 4.5 oz. I use 9 gram servos on the rudder and elevator and 1 Hitec 81 on the ailerons.
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Mups,
You did a nice job on your 3DX. What did you use for the color scheme?
I am building one now and sounds like we have the same powertrain except I went with the Kokam 3s 1500 pack. Sounds like you have no issues with the 2015-5400 vs the 2015-4100 that seems to be all but impossible to get right now. Glad to hear that.
You did a nice job on your 3DX. What did you use for the color scheme?
I am building one now and sounds like we have the same powertrain except I went with the Kokam 3s 1500 pack. Sounds like you have no issues with the 2015-5400 vs the 2015-4100 that seems to be all but impossible to get right now. Glad to hear that.
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
I finished it with 2 things mostly the Permapaque paint markers and some of the acrylic water based paints like Delta Ceramcoat. The markers add less weight. Both are available at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or Blicks. As far as the motor combo I didn't have a clue when I bought it a coulpe of months ago what to use but someonesuggested the 5400. It works very well. I also run it on a 2100 3S but that pack is a little on the heavy side. Mike
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Mups,
Thanks for all the help. Your 3DX looks great. If I could get my hands on 4mm carbon tubes I could move forward.
I am weighing everything and keeping tabs on the bill every step of the way.
I hope to post some pics as I assemble.
I might settle for the 1500s. If I put 3 in parallel in my Zagi will be plenty of flight time.
What is your ready to fly weight with the 1500?
How much thrust do yourecon you are producing?
What is your flight time?
Which 1500 Lipos are you using?
Thanks again
Craig
Thanks for all the help. Your 3DX looks great. If I could get my hands on 4mm carbon tubes I could move forward.
I am weighing everything and keeping tabs on the bill every step of the way.
I hope to post some pics as I assemble.
I might settle for the 1500s. If I put 3 in parallel in my Zagi will be plenty of flight time.
What is your ready to fly weight with the 1500?
How much thrust do yourecon you are producing?
What is your flight time?
Which 1500 Lipos are you using?
Thanks again
Craig
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Mups,
How many sheets of the 13"x39" depron did you use to build one 3DX? Is the depron lighter than the Dow Bluecor fanfold foam? I would like to try the depron, but it is so much more expensive than the Bluecor. You can build 25 planes out of a bundle of Bluecor which costs $31.00.
Zagibond,
For the 4mm carbon tubes go to the Hang em High website linked on the foamyfactory.com site. I got mine from there. They ship fast and the price was right.
Travis
How many sheets of the 13"x39" depron did you use to build one 3DX? Is the depron lighter than the Dow Bluecor fanfold foam? I would like to try the depron, but it is so much more expensive than the Bluecor. You can build 25 planes out of a bundle of Bluecor which costs $31.00.
Zagibond,
For the 4mm carbon tubes go to the Hang em High website linked on the foamyfactory.com site. I got mine from there. They ship fast and the price was right.
Travis
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Craig I don't really know the power specs but they are available at Maxxprod.com or look at this thread for some more insite.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t&pagenumber=2
I do know that my setup is very powerful because I flew it on my 1st 3DX. I'm running a E Tec 1200 mil 3S pack with an APC 12X6 prop.
Travis, you need 2 sheets of depron 6MM. I've never used the bluecor because it's too nasty for my tastes so I don't know about the weigt. My plane built and painted/finished comes out to 4.5oz. I've still not built it as light as some others do because this one still weighs 14 oz allsetup to fly. The only thing I can see that could be a little lighter is the receiver. Also the 1st 2 3DX's I built used 1/2" dow pink insulation. That worked pretty well and is really cheap.
Mike
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t&pagenumber=2
I do know that my setup is very powerful because I flew it on my 1st 3DX. I'm running a E Tec 1200 mil 3S pack with an APC 12X6 prop.
Travis, you need 2 sheets of depron 6MM. I've never used the bluecor because it's too nasty for my tastes so I don't know about the weigt. My plane built and painted/finished comes out to 4.5oz. I've still not built it as light as some others do because this one still weighs 14 oz allsetup to fly. The only thing I can see that could be a little lighter is the receiver. Also the 1st 2 3DX's I built used 1/2" dow pink insulation. That worked pretty well and is really cheap.
Mike
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Thanks Mups.
I really want to try without the brushless but will go to Lipo. I will need a speed control with a programable LVC. I will probably need to replace all of my ESCs or keep tabs on flight time.
Travis,
I looked for fanfold but it is not available in Denver at HD or Lowes.
I got my Depron from DepronUSA.com. Unfortunately it took almost twoo weeks to get to me.
A wing fits nicely onto a 13" x 39" sheet.
From the same size sheet you can get two fuselages or a fuselage and two horizontal tail sections.
Depending on how many planes you want to build, one can get two tails out of a 13" x 19" piece.
Good luck printing the plans to scale. I eventually got them to scale but not without chopping off some text.
I followed the directions on the pdf and tried various printers, settings and drivers.
I really want to try without the brushless but will go to Lipo. I will need a speed control with a programable LVC. I will probably need to replace all of my ESCs or keep tabs on flight time.
Travis,
I looked for fanfold but it is not available in Denver at HD or Lowes.
I got my Depron from DepronUSA.com. Unfortunately it took almost twoo weeks to get to me.
A wing fits nicely onto a 13" x 39" sheet.
From the same size sheet you can get two fuselages or a fuselage and two horizontal tail sections.
Depending on how many planes you want to build, one can get two tails out of a 13" x 19" piece.
Good luck printing the plans to scale. I eventually got them to scale but not without chopping off some text.
I followed the directions on the pdf and tried various printers, settings and drivers.
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
I noticed on the plans for the 3DX it lists to use 1/8" carbon tubes but on the foamy factory site it says to use 4mm . I used the 1/8" tubes in my wing and it seems very flexable . I was wondering which you all have used and will the 1/8" tubes be a problem in flight ?
Thanks , Barry
Thanks , Barry
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
The Carbon Tubes are temporarily on back order from Hang em High.
Really inexpensive though.
Anyone got any other ideas?
Really inexpensive though.
Anyone got any other ideas?
#21
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
I have the same problem with flexing on the wings and if you don't secure them they cause problems in flight if you fly in a heavy wind. I've devised a light weight wing strut that seems to work pretty well. I use low strech heay duty muskie line that goes into a hole I drilled at the tips of the CF tube and thru the tops and bottom of the fuse. It keeps the wing stable and adds almost no weight. Mike
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Thanks Mike,
I was wondering how the fuselage and wing were actually connected. It seemed like just glueing the Depron would not cut it. Since the two spars are not in contact, it would be only the Depron to Depron joint providing all the rigidity. Do you glue the line to the fuselage where it passes through?
I was wondering how the fuselage and wing were actually connected. It seemed like just glueing the Depron would not cut it. Since the two spars are not in contact, it would be only the Depron to Depron joint providing all the rigidity. Do you glue the line to the fuselage where it passes through?
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
Mike,
To lighten the plane up a bit, would cutting triangles out of the Depron pieces, leaving a truss like structure, and covering with film, be worth the effort? I would gues that one could save about an ounce and a half. Might look pretty cool also!
I would assume that a Zagi type covering would work best since I doubt that Depron would work too well with a heat activated product.
To lighten the plane up a bit, would cutting triangles out of the Depron pieces, leaving a truss like structure, and covering with film, be worth the effort? I would gues that one could save about an ounce and a half. Might look pretty cool also!
I would assume that a Zagi type covering would work best since I doubt that Depron would work too well with a heat activated product.
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
When I pass thru the fuse I put a small square of 1/64" plywood on it, drill thru it and I don't attach the line to the fuse. Just keep equal and relativly tight on both sides and it will stabilize things. It's real importantant that the line is attached to the CF tube on the tips though. Otherwise it breaks thru the weak Depron. Mike
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RE: Attaching the spars to a 3DX
I have heard of another wing strenghtening technique on flat leading edge wings like the EDGE. You can add another carbon spar to the very leading edge between the top and botom surface. It may be worth trying it just back from the front of a swept LE. I am building a Foamy Flip 3d and am going to do this. Also the 90 degree Depron additions to the fuse sides are suposed to help a lot in torsion and side flex.