Dave in VA

I run the JETI Advance 18-3P with my Axi 2212-26 and 3s1p TP1320 pack on my MM Miniflash. The Jeti is externally mounted on the underside of the fuselage and is never warm, even after extended runs at WOT (neither is the Axi, probably since it's radial mounted and getting lots of air). From what I gather, the additional 8 turns in the 2212-34 means you will draw even less amps than the 2212-26, so it would seem you can also safely run the 2212-34 with the 18amp Jeti and 1200-1500 3s1p. You could also get away with just a 8 or 12 amp ESC, as the -34 motor is only rated for a max of 10 amps.

I have an astro whattmeter sitting on my bench, but still havent made the time to actually run the numbers with my setup because I'm too lazy and am quite certain I'm well within the recommended parameters.

Check out the manufacturer's site [link=http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?id=en&nc=produkty_vypis&url_ps=axi_2212_34&id_odkazy=m_ac]Model Motors[/link] for the full specs.

mAvRiCk-inactive

Hey Billy Hell, I tohught youy were the one that designed this plane? Either way the plane is mad cool and I may pickj one up soon if i can ake some money but I'm in the processof buying a 42%er =-o. Looks llike a killer plane

Dan

flying skunks

My Feedback: (7)

I put a Himax2015-4100 in mine ,it will hover wiht no problems at all for 35-45 min at a time.
Donnie

Mike Glass

Zagibond,
Go with the 800s or the 1320s 3 cell packs.

mavrick,
I am the designer as well as the manufacturer.

Flying skunks,
I have a Himax screaming at me for a H.R. What Box are you useing and what cells?
35-45 mins sound good!

Mike Glass
www.horseflyhobbies.com

zagibond

Almost finished. I didn't have the heart to pull servos and motor, ESC, RX from my Edge so I bought new servos and RX. I am still not sure which motor to get. Probably the 2208/34.

I ended up using a lot of Epoxy. The foam safe CA leaves a lot to be desired.

It really looks like a plane not just a profile.
I like it.

Can't wait to fly. Anyone know how durable it is. It seems very solid and uses lots of CF.

Skibo777

It holds up pretty good. I had an issue with one of the pins on the esc. I had just taken off, about 15 ft high, climbing out vertically, lost all power. No throttle, no radio, A/C tailslides back down, just as the nose drops to a level attitude (about 7 ft off the ground) the right wing contacts the vertical support on a mailbox. Of course it couldn't have landed on the soft grass below the mailbox, it had to hit something that was unforgiving. 15 min. to repair the wing and correct the pin issue, and it flies no different and the repair is almost unidentifiable.

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

Could someone tell me how the servos mount in the H.R.? I have HS-55s, but lo and behold, I broke off the mounting tabs to install them on my Shock Flyer. Do I need new servos? If so, does anyone know if I can buy replacement cases for them? Thanks.

Skibo777

The servos mount the same way as the fuselage servos do on the shocky. There are cutouts for each servo(one per side), that are reinforced internally allowing screw mounting. I had the same situation, I used a small amount of epoxy to hold them in place instead of the mounting tabs and screws on the servos.

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

Has anyone else had durability issues with the H.R.? It flies like a foamie, but you can't treat it like a foamie, if you know what I mean. Every time it's hit the ground, the fuse has snapped in half. I rebuilt the area under the canopy with 1/16" ply, but on my latest doink, the entire tail section is cracked in front of the stab. It's going to weigh a pound before too long!!

zagibond

That was my concern when I started building mine.Unfortunately I have only had a maiden flight because my prop flew off. Need a differnt prop adapter!!!

I like the design and the quality of the parts seem excellent but I don't see it being as resiliant to 3D accidents like the flat fuselage blades. Perhaps they were just easier to fix. I know that my fuselage relied heavily on the cf rod on the 3DX. Most big wrecks pretty much meant using the rod as a straight refence to glue the rest of the fuselage onto.

The hell Raiser is a lot more intricate than that.

Mine weighed in at a wopping 15 ounces right off the bat.

My biggest issue so far is the my 1500 Kokams are a very tight squeeze in the fuselage.

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

So far, in about 8 flights, I've broken the fuse in half at the back of the canopy, in front of the h. stab, at the front of the canopy, and at the front of the wing. My long learning process has taught me these things:

1. Do not try to land in grass! Pavement is a must.

2. 3 cells only!

3. You have to land it like a warbird. Keep at half throttle and fly it to the ground. No harrier landings here! And no, CG is not a factor here. I've moved it all over the place.

4. Keep lots of 5 minute epoxy and strapping tape on hand.

5. Stick with a Shocky or such if you really want to fly hard and low.

These are just my opinions, and they could be a result of the level of my building or flying abilities, but for someone with the same level, this plane is not for you.

derekandjennys

OK, no 2 cell packs. How about the 340 3 cell 20 C packs by Kokam? I am thinking either the 860 or 340. I really don't see the need to carry extra battery weight unless it is needed. I was thinking the 340 was capable of over 6 amps but the 2208/34 may pull 8.8. Would that mean the 340 won't quite do it?

I have one on order and am ordering Phoenix 10, 2208/34, 10x3.8 prop?, Celectra charger and am looking for the ultimate setup. Best performance possible. What do you guys think?

Derek

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

A 3 cell 340 gives me about 5-6 minutes of 3D, if I'm lucky. I am spinning a 10" prop, though. Might get longer flights with a 9".

Texas 3D

My Feedback: (16)

I am using [link=http://falconbatteries.com/Predator8803S1P.html]this 880mah pack[/link] from Falcon Batteries, and it is a truly 10C. Awesome quality too. Check them out.

derekandjennys

that 880 would probably be the same as the Thunder Power 860 which is also 10C. I can order that locally. I guess I should compare prices first.
So you don't see any difference in power between the 800s at 10c and the 340s at 20C?

Derek

Photronix

This is a great kit! I bought mine before Huricane Charley hit us in Florida and built it during and the day after the Huricane (had to use flashlights for part of the build). The instructions are straightforward and Mike does a nice job of covering all of the steps. One note...watch the video on the www.horseflyhobbies.com website for folding the fuse. I watched the video and took my time but still got a split. I backed each fuse piece with the 3/4" tape then folded them. This worked really well.

My first couple of flights were excellent. I got a little too confident today and tried an outside snap roll. Snap is right...the engine tore off of the front of the plane and was dangling by the wires. Thankfully, I was able to land it. About 15 minutes later and some 5 min epoxy and I was ready to fly again. Watch these demanding manuevers. I may have goosed the gas a bit too much though.

Tip on building...Use some epoxy on the fire wall and use some additional wood.

Here is my setup:
AXI 2212/34
APC 11x3.8
Pheonix-25
Apogee Li-Po 1050mAh 3-cell
GWS 6 channel with one aileron servo.

I mounted the landing gear eventhough the guys at the shop said don't bother. I just love to land on wheels.

If you don't know about the Pheonix ESC check them out. The ability to fine tune the controller is great. Has anyone tried the more efficient advance setting? The AXI 2212/34 has plenty of power so I will try it out.

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

Good luck with the firewall. I've tried Gorilla Glue but it just keeps coming off. The last straw was when it popped off on a greased landing on pavement. I'm ready to throw the damn thing in the garbage and get another Shocky.

zagibond

I can now answer my own questions about the durability. It is quite brittle.

I sanpped the wings pulling out of a dive, the landing broke the fuselage and the motor mount.
Lots of epoxy and additional carbon spars later, nnow creeping past 15 oz AUW it flies again.

I just can't get my CG back enough with a 2212/34 and 1500 Kokam 3 cell. It is right up against the bulk head.

I think the plane needs a bigger elevator also.

Looks good and flies OK but is heavy and breaks too easily.

May go back to a simple foamyfactory or try a shocky.

derekandjennys

Keep in mind that was not the recommended motor and a 1500 pack is in my opinion, too much for this type of plane. I have ordered the recommended motor and will try the 340 pack to see if it is enough. The Thunder Power 860 would probably be the best but I am going for extreme.

I really think, and I'm just going by what I have seen thus far, that these may need to be flown like giant scale. No full power dives, built light and fragile but should fly great.

Derek

Skibo777

I have the most over-powered(& heaviest) HellRaiser hands down. Here are the specs:

Axi 2212/26
JR reciever w/4 HS-55s
JETI Advance 30
APC 11x4.7
and the big one
TP 3S1P 2100

TR's forever with no problem.

zagibond

I agree that mine is a brute but that was the power setup I had on my Extra.
I see that Tim at foamyfactory is now working on a box section fuselage biplane. All depron, no wood.
I tried an EPP design once but it flexed too much.

I will try to weight the tail (hate to add weight) to see if I can get the CG right for hovering.

MasterAce

Hey Mike,

Ordered my Hell Raiser from you at Horse Fly Hobbies last week. How long does it usually take to get? I know it has only been a week, but I can't Wait!!

Skibo777

Can you reposition your battery further back? I came up with a different location for mine to get the c.g. further back, under the canopy. I can get it to the point where it is way to far back. All it takes is a knife and some velcro.

zagibond

Skibo,

Talk to me. I flew again this morning. It is too far forward. It keeps wanting to tip. I have it up against the bulhead. Wouldn't it be too far back if it were behind the bulkhead? I would hate to cut the bulkhead.

How are you doing it?

Skibo777

You dont have to cut the bulkhead. what I did is cut an opening in the lower wing that allows access to the fuselage. Place a strip of velcro on the inside of the fuselage walls for the battery. Run your power wire through the bulkhead. Does that make any sense? Ill get some pics of mine if it doesnt.