Liv2Fly

rsrogers(Steve),

Thank you for posting the pics earlier. I have a couple of questions..First I see that you are using the Hitec 55's.. any problem getting the recommended throws..Instructions suggests using the Hitec 56's, otherwise states that you must use Dubro 848 Micro Control Horns to achieve the 45+ degree throws. I have some of the extra long Servo City 55's servo arms that I am using on my Mini Funtana and am getting plenty of throw. Secondly, I have attached some pics of a white square piece of foam that has a slot cut in it...Is it used to align the fuselage pieces when glueing them or is it a piece that is part of the construction process.. I do not see any mention of the piece in the Building Instructions.

THANX,
Jeff

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I suggest the HS 56 servos for the fact that they are Ball Bearing and Karbonite gears. Very strong, smooth, and dependable for a long time. The HS 55's are great for lite work, but if you want something stronger, the 56's are the ticket. For the small increase in cost, the 56's are a giant leap.

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

Hello Jeff

With the 55 servos I used all the stock hardware with the kit & get plenty of throw with the longest arm that came with the servos. The draw back is I have the control rod in the furtherest hole from center on the servo & on the control horn closest one to the surface which equals very poor mechanical advantage but so far I havent had any problems. I do fly this thing pretty slow but if I ever get it up to speed I might get flutter if thats possible on these things. I do recommend beveling the surfaces quiet a bit or no matter the linkage set up the throws wont be there. I had to re-do a few of mine because I didnt get them good enough the first go around.

The 56's would probably be a better choice but when I was purchasing all my equipment & this was my first electric it was a little hard to swallow $350 worth of stuff for a $50 piece of foam so I got what I thought was pretty good stuff without trying to go to cheap or overkill (plus they were the only ones the LHS had in stock!! )

I saw no mention of that piece in my inst. as well but it just might work for a "squaring" tool. I dont even think I took that piece out of the box.
Give it a try & if that is what its for fill us in so we'll know

Good luck & keep us posted on how you like it.

Steve

Ian.W

how much heavyer are the 56s over the 55s?

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

The 55's are 8 grams the 56's are 10.7

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

I flew mine again today & I have to admit I never deramed I would like electric as much as I do now!!

I have 2 1320 mah 3 cell packs & I got around 45 min of total flying time.

The only thing I noticed that I would like to do a little work on is doing manuvers such has elevators or other wing stressing stuff the wing flexes quit a bit. This may be a trait of foamies but I dont like the looks of it to well & may have been contributed by me spliting the trailing edge carbon spar like I did. One thing I might try is getting a piece of carbon "round rod" & going from wing tip to wing tip.

What do you guys think? Is the flex normal for foamies or sshould I try the carbon rod??

Remember I'm new to these thing so be easy on me!!

Ian.W

they usually flex a bit. its pretty normal. remember, more CF=more weight!

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

Since I'm new to this stuff I got to doing a little compairing on the HS-55 & HS-56 servos & I'm not convinced that the 56's would be any better. The only thing they have over the 55's are there just a bit faster, the carbonite gears & they have one bearing. Though this might be enough to sway some to get them the 55's are stronger, 2g's lighter & roughly $9 cheaper so I think I'll stick with the 55's!!!

I guess which one you chose would have to be a personal thing ?????

Liv2Fly

rsrogers(steve),

I have not decided if the 56's are worth the extra money either..and I do not personally like the extra mounting tabs on the 56's ..did you tape all of the control surfaces before you glued the wing and fuselage pieces together..the instructions say that you should but in the pictures the are not attached..I asked the question to Billy Hell from Hobby Lobby over in the RC Groups discussion but it was not addressed..I also am trying to make sure that I get better than a 45 degree bevel on the control surfaces..Oh and I was able to glue the curved trailing edge carbon fiber flat rod to the surface by using some beefey rubber bands to hold it down while the UHU Glue dries.

THANX,
Jeff

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

Looks and sounds as though yours is coming along quiet well Jeff. I did hinge all my surfaces before putting it all through the fuse.

What I did when getting my hinges right was to delflect the surfaces on the beveled side to 90 deg. then apply the hinge tape. It took an extra set of hands (3 kids - got plenty & sometimes to many if you know what I mean!!) but by doing this even if the bevels are not perfect it still allows for great throws.

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I generally remove the Mounting tabs from most servos for Electric anyway. I more often tha not use Double Sided Foam tape to mount them. About the only exception has been the Mini Funtana, which is setup and sized for the standard mounting.

I use the 3M type, and have had the wood break out and the tape still holding firm.

malcolmm

I have both 55 and 56's that I can use with my Judge. I am curious as to why the 56's would give move throw. I definitely need 45+ degrees. Does the 56 have more travel, the servo arms looked to be the same size to me.

Thanks
Malcolm

Liv2Fly

Malcolm,

I think that the Hitec 56 servo arms are actually a little longer than the 55's, however I got some of the aftermarket longer arms from RobotZone (Servo City) that will give you plenty of additional throw..The advantage of the 56's is that they are a little faster than the 55's. I still have not decided between the two.

Here is the link for the arms.

http://www.robotzone.com/customer/home.php?cat=84

THANX,
Jeff

CHM

My Feedback: (28)

Hi Guys!

I have been keeping an eye on this thread and I appreciate all the comments. I started my Judge on Saturday and I'm ready to hinge the control surfaces. I have two different types of 3M packing tape that I'm using. One version is 1 1/2" wide and its a bit thinner than the 2" stuff that I have. I used the thin stuff to wrap the leading and trailing edges of the wing. It seems to stick pretty good. I wiped the foam with alcohol first. I'll try the thicker stuff for the hinges. I cut it down to 1 1/2" on my Top Flite striping tool. I have heard that it helps to run over the tape with a low heat iron to help it stick, so I will try that.

I was able to put the trailing edge carbon on in one piece. I used UHU Creativ' glue for styrofoam (available at Michael's Crafts). I think it is the US equivalent to UHU POR. I applied it to both the carbon and the foam, then let it dry for about 12 minutes. It only took a few pieces of low tack masking tape to keep it in place.

I have over $400 worth of electronics on the way, (I still feel sick about this!) so I'm getting excited!!!

Are you guys using the spinner? Seems like a good way to lose some weight! Have any of you actually weighed yours?

Chuck

malcolmm

I'm at the point where I have to glue the firewall. The instructions say to add 2 degrees of right thrust. This seems like it would be a bit of a pain to do. I think that it would be much easier just to add a couple of small washers under the engine mount. Any ideas?

I'm not planning on using the spinner, I don't care that much what the plane looks like.

So far I really like this kit, much quicker to put together than my Raptor. I managed to keep the trailing edge carbon fibre spar in one piece, the idea of using rubber bands is a good one. I still had the spar pull away from the foam a bit, I am using 3M 77 glue, which may not be the best. I solved this with a couple of pieces of extra multitask tape at right angles to the spar. I definitely wouldn't recommend cutting the rear spar.

Someone asked about whether you should install the ailerons before inserting the wing into the fuse. I installed the ailerons first, didn't seem to matter. The tough part here is inserting the wing where is is double thickness, you just have to use a fair bit of force and watch the rear of the fuse so that it doesn't split.

Malcolm

kmurphy1028

I am using a Himax motor mounted in a GWS gearbox with a GWS spinner. I was able to fly it again this weekend and its really a nice flying plane. Its sturdy as well. It was windy and stalled on landing and fell about 3-4 feet with no damage. I decided to try taking off from the grass which it did, the only problem was that it jumped in the air so fast and vertical that it startled me and I cut the power. Again it fell from about 5 feet and only knocked the CF rod for the landing gear from on side of the wing.

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

Made me sick to but now that I've flown it a few times I kinda like it. The best part is just as much fun with a whole lot mess!!

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

If the plans for a plane call for 2 deg of right thrust, that means you'll probably crash on first launch if it's not there. I use a Robart meter for my Down and Right thrust alignment.

It can make a difference.

Just putting washere under the motor may not give what is needed to counteract the thrust of a powerful motor on a very light plane, and that is a dister waiting to happen.

Air3D540

Hello. I just got a Judge 540 a couple of weeks ago and then went ahead and got the recommended Axi and ESC at the Weak Signals Toledo show last weekend (which was amazing). I was just wondering how you are supposed to positon the two triangle re-enforcements behind the motor mount. Also, Altacom, where would be the best place to purchase a Robart meter for alignment of the right thrust. I always have trouble at this point in a building process so I need something to help me out a little.
Thanks a lot!!

Nitro10

I have had a Judge for about two months now and I have yet to find a foamy that is as capable and durable as the Judge. I have put this poor plane through hell and it keeps coming back....with a little glue I am using a Himax 850kv outrunner that works great, I just ordered one of new larger Himaxx outrunners that just came out, its said to produce 200+ watts which should make things interesting

I glued my supports to the vert. fuse. I glued them with the flat end towards the motor mount.

billyreedy

My Feedback: (4)

By leaving the center section out of the carbon spar on the trailing edge you totally defeated the purpose of it being there in the forst place. It is there to give the wing full length rigidity to handle stiff walls and rough landings. I wouldnt fly that plane very hard like that. If you build EXACTLY to the instructions with the recommended setup the plane is Perfect. Hobby Lobby did their homework and mine flies flawlessly with the way they say to build.

Billy Reedy II
AMA# L799

billyreedy

My Feedback: (4)

Ryguy
If you use a quality charger and a quality pack and do as instructed as far as charging and discharging them LiPo batteries are nothing more than a 100% better power source for flight. I run Lithiums in my IMAC 35% plane and on all my electrics. You will not get the performance or the flight time anywhere near equal to a LiPo pack from anything else.

Billy Reedy II
AMA# L799

altacom

My Feedback: (3)

I totally agree with both the posts above.

I have found that if a designer has a piece that he says is needed, it probably is.

And as to Li-poly's, I began using them over a year ago, and the only problems I've had were my own stupidity, usually charging them wrong. If you get a good quality charger, (I use the Astro-flight charger), follow all directions to the letter, the li-poly battery is the way to go. If you can't, or don't follow directions exactly, then they will be a problem.

My rules for Li-Poly's are:

1. ALWAYS be there when they are Charging. I never leave the area when charging Li-Polys.
2. Use a good Quality charger that keeps you posted on the status of the charge.
3. Charge at a rate slightly lower that their actually rating. For example Charge a 3000 MAH battery pack at about 2.5 to 2.8 Amps.
4. Be sure that the MAH of the pack is greater than the current you are using for your motor. If a motor draws 27 Amps at full throttle go for a pack that can provide 3000 MAH or higher. I like the Hi Capacity batteries because they can provide a much higher C value, giving longer flight times, and much cooler operation.
5. ALWAYS be there when charging your batteries. (yes this is here twice) Check the charge status on a regular basis. Are they getting warm? Is the charger still indicating the correct charge current? If they get warm during charge, there is a problem, too high a charge rate or a defective cell.
6. No matter how slight the damage may be to a Li-Poly cell, if there is damage, THROW IT AWAY!! It's hard to throw away a $60 plus pack, But the slightest damage to one of the cells can cause them to burst into flame. They may work for awhile, but eventually you will have a problem, and it could be serious.

Just my opinion, but it works for me. I figure that one Li-Poly pack, cared for properly will give me more flights than 10 times their cost were I purchasing glow fuel to fly.

rsrogers

My Feedback: (10)

Contrary to your OPINIONS I have been flying mine since March at least 2 or 3 days a week and have been really ringing it out and have had no problems yet due to the center section of the spar not being there. Walls, tight square loops, waterfalls, you name it & I've put it through it without any problems.

As a matter of fact I think I'll go ring it out a little more during lunch today!!

spence73

2 Degrees of right thrust? I don't understand that. I will be getting my Judge next week and found this thread very helpful. But I don't undrestand the 2 degrees of right thrust thing.
Please explain.

Rich