patzane

Well I finish my plane tonight. It was very easy build. Looking to fly it 2morrow if I can get a break from work. The only thing I did different was made a tray under the fuse all way up to gear for my battery to go. I did not like having the battery on side on the plane as in the book. Also by doing this I can play with the CG to my liking depending on what battery I want to use (1320 or 1500).

Also before I did the tray I played around with way battery is place in book. I found it to be nose heavy. Have anyone else experience
this.

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

Glad to here most of you are happey with the Cap.

With the battery on the bottom it might make the hovering/torque rolling a bit of hard work. Plane really needs the higher vertical CG for it to work good. Other than that it is fine.

Enjoy the Cap's guys.

hobbydude214

My Feedback: (13)

Yep just like i thought, i think i will be moving to the 65's, they will definately be the best choice other than that its quite dreamy!!

perkinsm

Looks awsome !!!!!! Keep us posted on how it flys.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Didn't I tell you that the first time?

Now take two of those 55's and put them into the Stingray where they belong.

patzane

My Cap had it 1st flight today. I was able to get in 5 flights. Here is my take on the plane. As you can see for early post I place my battery at the bottom of the fuse.

1. Hover was easy. First I had I little rocking, but with little more I expo that was solved.
2. Knife edge. It wants to couple. I need to do little mixing.
3. Harries was little rocky, but it was little windy here in AZ today. In calm day it should be perfect.
4. Rolling circle was not pretty, but should be better once I add in little mixing.
5. With the throws on the elv as recommended you should be am to do waterfall all day.
6. Snap was ok, almost on the dime. I did a few snap going into a Harries and that was fun.
7. Flat spin looks excellent.
8. Blenders was ok.

I was little disappointed with the roll rate with the big surface, but I can live with it.

Due to the light wing load this baby likes to float. If there is any wind, just string it up and fly it like a kite.

Take off and landing was uneventful, just leave a little power on touchdown and flare out right before wheels hits ground and landing it will be perfect.

Front gear little soft and weak so try not to land to land are you will break a prop.

My power plant is E-Flite 450. I tried the 11x3.8 and 11x.4.7. I like the 11x4.7 much better.

Well that all I can take us right now. Like to hear from other regarding their take on the cap.

Dirtnaper

My Feedback: (11)

I think the ailerons are big enough to overpwer the servos. Im using HS56's and have noticed this under a lot of load.

You can do waterfalls from a 5-6ft hover with no problem on hi-rate.

patzane

agree to that as for waterfall out of hover

Dirtnaper

My Feedback: (11)

patzane

Let us know how your mixing turns out. I havent even messed with it. The rolling harriers are fine along with the harrier itself. Ive been flying mostly on dead calm afternoons so I can attest that it will do it. They look kinda sloppy though however the odds are its just me. The winds are howling here in Dallas so Im having withdrawel symptoms from this plane. The reason for my thinking on the ailerons is that I have a better roll rate going slow than I do fast. Thats just a whole heck of a lot of surface to be displacing. I wish they had some tougher gear that would take harrier landings.

Where are you guys running the CG?

tengler

Hi Mr. Redman or anybody else who wants to comment:

I have a 6.6.1 Cobri geared 2025-4200 Himax motor that is gathering dust in my hanger and am thinking it would power the Cap 232 BP very well. Is this overkill or will it be OK for this plane? I am itching to buy something in this catagory and this plane looks like fun. BTW, you guys do an awsome job on your design, product choice and quality. Electric is beginning to rule. If only Lipo prices were more affordable! Am also waiting to hear some more flight reports from guys in this forum who just got their Cap 232 BP, what say you guys?

patzane

I do agree the roll rate is much faster going slow. As for the CG I had what the book recommend and the plane is nose heavy. That with a 1320 pack.

patzane

Well put in some mixing today to help with coupling, but the wind was so crazy here today I was not able to do anything with the plane but put it into the wind and let it sit in a spot. However I did try a 12x6 on the 450 and it hover dead on spot in the wind. Hope the wind be little better 2morrow so I can see it the mixing made a difference.

Jerry C

My Feedback: (6)

Where are you guys mounting the battery? I dont think using just vecro will hold. I have allways used a tie strap plus the vecro. Are you removing the covering behind the velcro?
Jerry

patzane

Jerry C, I place my tray under the fuse to mount my battery. So far it has worked great for me. Was not able to fly today as with have 12+ MPH wind here in AZ. I did move my ESC back under the wing to even out the CG. Was little nose heavy at first.

harrymcwilliams

I mounted my pack just above the leading edge of the wing to balance. I did remove the covering before adding the velcro. Not a good idea to stick velcro to covering to hold the battery. The covering will pull loose.

hobbydude214

My Feedback: (13)

I like mine very light, does rollers well. This plane is predictable and does a decent knife.

keyman

My Feedback: (22)

Can I use the pro 10 esc with the park 400?? or do I really need the 20?

Thanks
Mark

perkinsm

I'm just using velcro to hold 1320 Mah 11.1 V Packs on my Billy Hell R/C Cap 35ES. I have found that there is a big diff in quality of velcro that you can purchase. I'm using some that I got at Wal-Mart in the sewing "stuff" department. Comes adhesive backed and hold great.

tester423

hey guys. I have one of theese -- my first park flyer tuype unit. I have not yet flow it though. Weather sucks. I am wondering if the control rod flex that this thing has to elev and rudder is normal. I set it up to the recommended throws in the book. But the little rods flex quite a bit.

Also -- when it says 42% expo I asume they mean positive not negitive right?

Another thing -- I don't like sticking the battery to the covering either -- Would it be really bad to dremell out a slot in the fuse so I could velcro strap the battery to it?

perkinsm

Tester - Regarding the Expo, I have a Futuba 9C and the expo is always a negitive factor. I'm not sure on the JR's radio's etc. They may be a positive factor but I'll let someone with more experience with them respond.

hobbydude214

My Feedback: (13)

its positive with jr. and you could cut out a spot but ive had it on there with velcro onto the ultracote and no problems.

patzane

Jr is positive for expo, negative for more sensitive factor

tester423

My radio is futaba -- pos expo is going to make it more sensitive. The servos move faster. I'll guess i'll just try it and see if like it.

Oh what about the control rods flexing -- are the all doing that?

hobbydude214

My Feedback: (13)

the servos wont move faster they will just be more twitchy. if you have futaba you want (-) expo the control rods shouldnt flex, something is binding did you work in the hinges after gluing?

tester423

Yeah all the hinges are cleaned up -- Why the instructions told you glue the rod in after attaching the clevis to the control horn I'll never know. When the servo moves to the push direction it bows a little but but only on the elrvator and rudder. I am new to this micro stuff, I don't know how long a 3d arm should be, I just used the supplied arms. It seemes like if I increase the length of the servo arm I would have more flex. I guess if do find a longer arm I could set the EPA so it does not have to travel as far??

Anyway I am going to go change my expo to neg.