Luke 3D returns

[X(][:-]

Capiche

Replied ! You might be lucky !

Sprink

Entertaining at the field today, watching Luke making his mind up on that engine.

I think the clincher was seeing my new 140FZ2 running the normal apc 17x8 at about 9000.

He asked me how much mine was, then wanted to know how much more the 160 was, then wanted to know if anything more could be gotten from his 140L,

Then he said "Sod it, I'll get the 160"

Other than that, Lukes flying still coming on strong. Cant wait to see what he can do with a decent engine [8D]

After a bit of tuning, had a flight with mine with the 140, could definately notice the difference. Uplines took nothing like the effort they did before. The 120 is a nice engine, but the 140 shows the extra power

Billy Bunter

Hey Luke,

Your gona love it!!! Very definately the right decision.

Bill

Capiche

he was lucky ! got the last one.... no more til next shipment now !

Rhilluk

whens that then

Capiche

not sure... couple a weeks maybe but that shipment might all be spoken for already.... if interested you should get on the list asap..

Rhilluk

Can I ask why you guys think the YS 140 - 160 engines are the best for this plane, how would the os 1.40rx do or the mintor 1.70 in plane like the C140

Angus Balfour

Probably very well. Somenzini used an OS 140FI in his Excellence freestyle a couple of years back. Went exceptionally well. No reason why it would'nt be as good in the Capiche.

Angus

Sprink

No reason why they should not work, but you would have to make a pipe tunnel. Possible, Luke did it, but with the YS, there are more options available. Biggest advantage is having flexible manifolds.

Luke 3D returns

The Mintor engines look like their pipes are much bigger though - i expect you might have trouble making a pipe tunnel for anything bigger than the slim hatori pipes.



Question for the 160DZ users..... what tank, prop do i need for this? Any other advice?

Billy Bunter

Luke,

For this model and your style of flying I would go with:

* APC 18x8W for running in, then use a 19x8W.

* 30% Fuel - you need to use a special mix that has the right oil content for the injector

* 18-20oz Tettra main tank

* 4oz header tank (stops bubbles getting to the injector which will cause it to crap out)

With this engine and set up you C140 will torque roll like a Ballerina on speed!

Regards,

Bill

Angus Balfour

Luke,

We use 30% Coolpower. Have also used 30% nitro and 20% Klotz oil (regular techniplate) and it ran just aswell but the Coolpower is more corrosion resisitant.

Ive had 4 tanks through it and it's using about 20oz for a 10min flight (F3A flying). I would definitly recommend a header tank. I use a 2oz heli header. On the first start it was hard to get it running, I think cos the regulator/pump didnt have any fuel in it so it was'nt primed. Just take off the fuel line that goes into the pump and spin the engine over until fuel comes out. Once you've done this put that line back on and take off the line that goes into the injector and spin the engine over until fuel comes through. Once you've done this prime the engine as normal and start as normal.

You may also find that you cannot tighten the prop up suffieciently to stop the spinner spinning on the prop driver. To solve this i make up a disc out of wet and dry paper. Basically stick two bits of 280 wet and dry together and then place it between the driver and the spinner. I also do this between the spinner and the prop.

Hope this helps,

Angus

Angus Balfour

Foofy + whoever else is interested,

Here are the pics of my home made nose ring support. It made out of 1/8" lite ply, 1/16" birch and 1/4" carbon fibre end grain balsa.

Angus

Sprink

Interesting addition Angus, looks like it works though. Why the fuel tubing on the needle valve extension?

Luke 3D returns

Thanks very much for the tips. I have a Precedent smart 18x8 wooden prop. Would i be able to use this for running in?

Would i be able to use my existing YS20/20 to run the thing in and then switch to coolpower 30% later or should i use coolpower from the outset?

Are you still running the engine rich angus? Do you anticipate the fuel consumption to go down once its fully run in?

C140 Brothers

Why do you need a nose ring?

P.S Should i go with a YS 160 [&:]

Adam

Angus Balfour

Ok,

Fuel tubing is to stop the needle extension ratting against the cowl.

I need to support the nose as with the mount ive got (regular Hyde) the front of the engine would move far too much if i didnt plus you would wear out the two discs in the mount. Mounts such as Gator or Hyde ARI dont need this.

I have not used a wooden prop on a Dingo but its the right size so as long as the hub doesnt compress at all when you tighten it up im sure it would be fine. Not sure about the Model Technics 20/20. Again, ive not used it but a friend of mine has and the engine seemed happier on the Coolpower. Most pilots use 20% oil absolute minimum. Coolpower has got about 22% oil or so and lots more nitro and the engine definitly sounds better and goes better. CPLR's Cosmo fuel has about 23% oil i think. If you can i would recommend you use Coolpower or some other fuel with more oil from the start. Could always add more oil and nitro to your model technics but i dont know what oil is in it. It's probably advisable to use a thin, low viscosity oil and i would'nt touch castor with a barge pole.

The engine is still rich so the fuel consumption will decrease a wee bit. Also going to put on a bigger prop once ive put a gallon through it. Will probably go from 16X12 to a 16X13 or 17X12 (18X8 to run in, 18X10 or 19X8 thereafter for 3D). Basically you want a 18-22 oz main tank (use the foam clunk by the way, stops air getting to the header tank) and a 2oz header and you should get a 10min flight.

Also, you will need to clip your fuel line when filling to stop the engine flooding. Some pilots use surgical clips for this. I just bring a small length of the feed line out of the fuz (see pic) and then clip it with a bulldog clip when filling and immediately after you land.

Angus

ps yes, go for a 160! Best engine they've ever made

Ian.W

YS 20/20 fuel is klotz with no castor

Rhilluk

WHat a master piece, must have got your inspiration from the 4th bridge Angus

Cheers for that though

Capiche

I would be wary of using a wood prop on this 4 stroke Luke.

Its interesting the views on the header tank.... was speaking to the folks at ZN the other day and they dont feel the need. So far as I know CPLR doesnt use one either, but dont quote me on that havent spoken to him for a while... he's due a call maybe I should ask !?

Angus... interesting mod for the nose ring... been considering how to do something along those lines myself..

Fuel tubing on needle.... I'd say to limit chaffin on the cowl and to reduce vibration overall when you grab it - I do the same often, although this time I elected for a bit of bowden cable with a collet on the end so its not rigid.

*3der*

hi. heres a few more pics of the bare airframe done apart from a few bits here and there. hope you like!
*3Der*

Rhilluk

looking good, keep it up. At this rate you'll fly before me smaragd does,[:'(].

Angus Balfour

Ive heard that CPLR sometimes does'nt use a header aswell. I dont have a header in my Capiche and it stopped once after a wall. Was near the end of the tank so i gave it the benefit of the doubt - been ok since. The Synergy does have a header and the engine has never stopped. You could try it without a header but i would say the header would guaruntee no engine stops.

Aye the nose ring support is a sublime piece of engineering eh

Angus

Billy Bunter

Luke,

No way I would use a wooden prop. I have a stack of the APC variety here and you are welcome to borrow a few.

Cool power is not such a good idea - most of the pattern boys use it because the fuel blend (mainly the low, thin oil content) generates a tad more power. However, this results in the motors slowly but surely 'eating' themselves - it will take a while but sooner or later your piston and liner will be wasted on this fuel.

The 160 has so much power I would use a friendly fuel with the optimum oil content and loose that extra 100 or so rpm the coolpower gives. In a 10.5lb Capiche you wont notice the difference and as a bonus you will never have to send your motor off to the YS Doctor for open heart surgery.

I had a few flame outs before I adopted the use of a header tank with a DZ motor, but never a problem after after that. I know that some of the other top pilots (maybe CPLR too from the other comments I have read above) use a bubble free clunk, which is another way around the problem. I believe that OS produce a pucker one and this is perhaps something worth looking at - I remember Troy Newman talking about it in one of his threads on this site.

The other benefit of the header is getting a bit more fuel in the model - these motors drink fuel pretty fast.

Bill.