3D Rates?
#1
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3D Rates?
I know this is probably not the fourm to ask this question but I thought I would try anyway.
I thought I would try my hand at 3D flying and I've got an airframe capable of 3D. My problem is that I can't figure out how to program my radio. I've done several searches and I've not gotten any help. What little I have found is beyond my understanding.
I have a Futaba 14SG and the manual might as well be written in chinese. I want to program my 3 position switches to low rate, high rate and 3d rate. I've never set up a flight condition and I have no idea how to even get started.
Any guidance as I dip my toe into the 3D pond would be greatly appreciated.
I thought I would try my hand at 3D flying and I've got an airframe capable of 3D. My problem is that I can't figure out how to program my radio. I've done several searches and I've not gotten any help. What little I have found is beyond my understanding.
I have a Futaba 14SG and the manual might as well be written in chinese. I want to program my 3 position switches to low rate, high rate and 3d rate. I've never set up a flight condition and I have no idea how to even get started.
Any guidance as I dip my toe into the 3D pond would be greatly appreciated.
#5
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I was thinking the same thing, it makes more sence. It did however teach me something new about my radio, how to set up flight conditions, so some good came from my first try.
#6
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bummer
don't blame CA hinges either, prolly had those on over 30 planes, less than 12 pounds and never broke even on hard crashes. it does happen though.
Always give your controls a healthy tug on preflight. Pretend its the real plane you are about to sit in.
don't blame CA hinges either, prolly had those on over 30 planes, less than 12 pounds and never broke even on hard crashes. it does happen though.
Always give your controls a healthy tug on preflight. Pretend its the real plane you are about to sit in.
#7
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It was the hinges. The first photo shows the right elevator, the fiber material is completely gone and the hinges are slick. The second photo is the right aileron, it is a better photo of the way the hinges pulled out.
I agree, in the future, I will pin all hinges that are not hinge points. I should have known this already. However, this was my first 3D type plane and I didn't think about it. Since 1991 I have only seen a ca type hinge pull out one time. That was on an Extra 300S and it was my own fault, I had not put enough ca on the hinge. I should have learned then but it was sometime ago and I had forgotten.
No where in the instructions were there any indication that I should pin the hinges, hinges were only mentioned one time in the attachment of the rudder. I had thought it looked like the elevators were double hinged, two side by side, I thought that's a good idea so when I hinged the rudder that's what I did. But, I used actual GP hinges that I had on hand. And by the way, they did not look anything like the hinges provided with the plane for hinging the rudder, they looked like the cheap hinges I had gotten with a Seagull model.
Oh, and by the way, I had pulled on the control surfaces, not the day of the first flight but a couple of days before. They seemed fine at the time.
I agree, in the future, I will pin all hinges that are not hinge points. I should have known this already. However, this was my first 3D type plane and I didn't think about it. Since 1991 I have only seen a ca type hinge pull out one time. That was on an Extra 300S and it was my own fault, I had not put enough ca on the hinge. I should have learned then but it was sometime ago and I had forgotten.
No where in the instructions were there any indication that I should pin the hinges, hinges were only mentioned one time in the attachment of the rudder. I had thought it looked like the elevators were double hinged, two side by side, I thought that's a good idea so when I hinged the rudder that's what I did. But, I used actual GP hinges that I had on hand. And by the way, they did not look anything like the hinges provided with the plane for hinging the rudder, they looked like the cheap hinges I had gotten with a Seagull model.
Oh, and by the way, I had pulled on the control surfaces, not the day of the first flight but a couple of days before. They seemed fine at the time.
#10
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One thing for sure, CA hinges are not as bad as some would say. You certainly can get bad ones, yet I have not seen any. I have a plane with CA hinges that flew well over 600 flights (many aggressive) and never had a hinge failure. That was stock factory hinges, too. It proved to me that it is a myth that CA hinges don't last but around 100 flights.
#11
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One thing for sure, CA hinges are not as bad as some would say. You certainly can get bad ones, yet I have not seen any. I have a plane with CA hinges that flew well over 600 flights (many aggressive) and never had a hinge failure. That was stock factory hinges, too. It proved to me that it is a myth that CA hinges don't last but around 100 flights.
With the replacement plane I'm going to cut the hinges out and use a wider ca hinge that will be pinned. Several of the hinges on the plane that was destroyed I noticed afterwards were crooked as seen in the photo of the elevator above. If I had pinned them the pins would have probably missed the hinge.
No matter how much quality control Hobbico has in place, you still have people building the planes in China who are not flyers. Sometimes they just do not take the time to make sure everything is correct.
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Sorry about the loss and great that you are getting a replacement.
By the way, Tower's pregluing is usually quite good but, like someone said, always give them a tug to check. I used to worry about CA hinges on my airplanes but I found that they ususally outlast the airplane. However, these days I prefer to use nylon hinges or robart hinges for my larger airplanes. Robarts are particularly easy to install with epoxy
Did you figure out the set up issue on the TX? I prefer to go into "dual rates" and select switch positions from there first. You can select 2 positions for each surface. Then in AFR and set the rates from there. I also use some expos on all surfaces- usually 25% for 3d rates, 15 for high and 5-10 for low rates. It just makes your airplane fly better and easier. My buddy sets a condition to take everything to low rates in a panic situation but I prefer to fly the airplane rather tha flip switches if I get there. I have a 12FG though, so yours may be slightly different.
If you are confused, PM me and we will go through in detail
Ameyam
By the way, Tower's pregluing is usually quite good but, like someone said, always give them a tug to check. I used to worry about CA hinges on my airplanes but I found that they ususally outlast the airplane. However, these days I prefer to use nylon hinges or robart hinges for my larger airplanes. Robarts are particularly easy to install with epoxy
Did you figure out the set up issue on the TX? I prefer to go into "dual rates" and select switch positions from there first. You can select 2 positions for each surface. Then in AFR and set the rates from there. I also use some expos on all surfaces- usually 25% for 3d rates, 15 for high and 5-10 for low rates. It just makes your airplane fly better and easier. My buddy sets a condition to take everything to low rates in a panic situation but I prefer to fly the airplane rather tha flip switches if I get there. I have a 12FG though, so yours may be slightly different.
If you are confused, PM me and we will go through in detail
Ameyam
Last edited by ameyam; 01-27-2014 at 12:01 AM.
#14
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Sorry about the loss and great that you are getting a replacement.
By the way, Tower's pregluing is usually quite good but, like someone said, always give them a tug to check. I used to worry about CA hinges on my airplanes but I found that they ususally outlast the airplane. However, these days I prefer to use nylon hinges or robart hinges for my larger airplanes. Robarts are particularly easy to install with epoxy
Did you figure out the set up issue on the TX? I prefer to go into "dual rates" and select switch positions from there first. You can select 2 positions for each surface. Then in AFR and set the rates from there. I also use some expos on all surfaces- usually 25% for 3d rates, 15 for high and 5-10 for low rates. It just makes your airplane fly better and easier. My buddy sets a condition to take everything to low rates in a panic situation but I prefer to fly the airplane rather tha flip switches if I get there. I have a 12FG though, so yours may be slightly different.
If you are confused, PM me and we will go through in detail
Ameyam
By the way, Tower's pregluing is usually quite good but, like someone said, always give them a tug to check. I used to worry about CA hinges on my airplanes but I found that they ususally outlast the airplane. However, these days I prefer to use nylon hinges or robart hinges for my larger airplanes. Robarts are particularly easy to install with epoxy
Did you figure out the set up issue on the TX? I prefer to go into "dual rates" and select switch positions from there first. You can select 2 positions for each surface. Then in AFR and set the rates from there. I also use some expos on all surfaces- usually 25% for 3d rates, 15 for high and 5-10 for low rates. It just makes your airplane fly better and easier. My buddy sets a condition to take everything to low rates in a panic situation but I prefer to fly the airplane rather tha flip switches if I get there. I have a 12FG though, so yours may be slightly different.
If you are confused, PM me and we will go through in detail
Ameyam
My plan is to use the Robart hinges this time around.