sabreflyer

I have developed an allergy to cyano/epoxy and have to keep away from the stuff. I have gone 'old school' and have been continuing to build no problems generally. However I have a Extreme Flight Edge 60" and was hoping to use; Hinge Glue for the Hinges ( confident with this as I have had success in the past), Aliphatic or Delux Materials Superphatic on the stabs ( used these glues before with success but not sure about the strength for 3D?), and the control horns I thought about the superphatic again as it states it is suitable for GRP and carbon fibre ( never tried this before!)

What do you think? Anyone used these glues before in these applications for your 3D aircraft? I have made some mock ups using the same materials and will give them 24 hours and see if I can pull them apart.
Grateful for your comments/ advice.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I have a 67" OMP Fusion profile. I used Gorilla glue on all the 1/4" Robart hinge points 4+ years ago. This bird is light at 7 lbs but anyone who has seen me fly it knows the hinges are solid. Just practice on how much you use. It expands a bunch. I coat the hole with a tooth pic, than wet the hinge and install. I come back about 20-30 minutes later and pic off the excess with a Exacto. The wing on this Fusion has some transparent coverering. The glue actually made a little ball on the end of the hinge point. It's not going anywhere.

David

ahicks

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Another Gorilla Glue fan here. I don't know about availability in the UK though.

foodstick

Another glue to try for some situations is the Gorilla glue for wood. Its white in the bottle, dries clear.Once it dries its like a tough hard rubber texture. I haven't used it the way you describe on hinges ..however it does seem strong and tough..but I try not to use it anywhere I will need to sand down smooth.

sabreflyer

Thanks for your replies. I did think of Gorilla glue and that type ( is it PU glue?) but having read that it has its own toxicity I decided to stick with aliphatic/superphatic/hinge glues types. I think the hinges will be fine as I have read many comments about Pacer hinge glue working on even large scale types. I think the stab will be fine with aliphatic/superphatic but I am not sure if it will take the abuse of 3D flying? The biggest problem I have is the control horns which are a glass board type material. Epoxy is recommended here but as the Delux Materials suggest it will work on the label I have glued a mock up to try.
I am waiting a full 24 hours to allow the glue to cure then will try to destroy them and see how the glue holds up. I will report back with my findings.

sabreflyer

Ok so I returned to the parts and firstly tried to pull apart the hinge. I could not get it to budge and it took two of us pulling until the wood gave away. The pacer hinge glue seems to be certainly up to the job and I am confident it will handle the big 3D surfaces.
Next the sheet glued at 90 degrees into a slot on another piece of sheet; pulling one way and it did not budge but the other way it gave way quite easily and it did not take any wood with it. Then the epoxy glass horns were tested and the same unsatisfactory result.
I decided to try again and this time I allowed the Superphatic to sink into the wood before adding more once joined. I also retried the horn to wood join but this time I used a proper piece of balsa (I used a coffee stirrer wood stick last time). Both were significantly better. The super phatic on the epoxy horn is not easy to remove even with a knife.
I tried standard aliphatic on the 90 degree balsa joint and it was as good as the Superphatic.
I think I may use Aliphatic on the stab and run in Superphatic once fully cured?
The result with the Epoxy horns looks promising and I will try one more time to see if the results come out the same.
The fit/ engineering of the model means there is greater strength/gluing areas built in anyway so that will also add to my confidence.
So this is all about my having been a cyano and epoxy user who is now having to learn about and trust other glues. It is not a scientific test, just a bit of trial and error, but I thought it may be useful to others to to share my experiences.

daveopam

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Roughing up those horns helps quite a bit also. I figured you knew that but many people read these forums.

David

sabreflyer

Yes, absolutely right, davopam. I gave the horns a good rough up first with sand paper/ small file.
I can see the Superphatic has bonded really well to the horn but am awaiting the opportunity to try some more to ensure i get the same results before going ahead.