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YS CLUB

Old 04-29-2010, 05:34 PM
  #2101  
MRMcFarlandM
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Default RE: YS CLUB

No special restrictions, but I am not a big fan of running just a header pipe on a 4c. I am looking for something similar to what I have on my YS 110S or satio 125.
Old 04-30-2010, 10:39 AM
  #2102  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Either the mufflers for the 110 -91FZ sounds like what your looking for then, one word of caution though the 3 screws that hold the back half of the muffler should have lock tite on them, *S* don't ask how I know this. The mufflers than originally come on the 91 AC may also be a good choice. I have one NIB and never been ran so I can't comment on how well it performs.
Myself I run the original straight pipe that come on the 120 SF models on all of my YS engines except the 91FZ, I just use the stock muffler with the baffle out of it. Works great and has gobs of power, while still muffeling the noise fairly well.
Good luck with whatever muffler you decide on.I'm sure the YS will have more than enough for the plane.
Richard.
Old 04-30-2010, 05:13 PM
  #2103  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I figure as long as I am looking for help I might as well ask before I give and send it it to YS parts and service.
I recently put bearings in my YS 110S and now the thing won't run below full throttle. It acts like I have a massive air leak or
the regulator is messed up. It has good tank pressure and compression, I have check the cam timing and it looks good.
this is the first time I have taken one of the engines with the ring on the crank and rubber seal behind the front bearing apart.
Any ideas on what I messed up.
1 more bit of info when you close the carb with the line to the carb unhooked fuel quits pumping out below about half throttle,
when spinning it with a starter.

A trivia question, on these engine with the seal on the crank how do the pressure impulses get up to the regulator.

Thanks Mike,
Old 04-30-2010, 06:49 PM
  #2104  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Sorry on that one cause i'm in the same boat as you were. I have never had one of those apart yet. But I think it gets it pressure back thru the case like the 140's do, But I could be totally wrong here.
What all did you change besides the bearings, any gaskets or Orings?
Maybe someone with some experence could shed some light on this?
Also a call to YS service to Richard Verano could maybe answer all of your questions W/O sending it in to them. I don't think we have anyone in the YS manufactures forum anymore since Troy left.
I forgot one thing Somewhere I read about a brass bushing that gets turned blocking off the fuel flow in the 110S series, since you have the engine you would have a better idea than I of where it might be at.
Old 05-01-2010, 08:11 AM
  #2105  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I did change the gaskets, but not the O-rings they all looked in very good shape.
Old 05-15-2010, 09:42 PM
  #2106  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

YS 140 sport just broken in (last season) was running very well

Running Cool Power 30% Heli synthetic
Died on Taxi, starts, runs fine, settings seem OK,.pull glow driver, 20 seconds later dies everytime, change settings,no improvement.
Repeat 20x no results
Change glow plug new OS #F

Its now 8 months later
Starts runs fine settings seem OK,pull glow driver,dies 10 seconds later every time. adjust seetings,no change..lots of swearing now..

now what? maybe a fresh jug of fuel?

It runs as it should with the glow driver attached, pull it and it dies after 10 seconds. Why the flame outs?


Old 05-15-2010, 10:03 PM
  #2107  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Sounds like its to rich on the bottom to me. If a YS is tuned right they will run in any mounting position, let me guess yours is inverted Correct?
Old 05-15-2010, 10:06 PM
  #2108  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

mounted sideways. I keep leaning the low end,the manual states that its counter clockwise to lean it,Correct?
Old 05-16-2010, 09:30 AM
  #2109  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Humm thats a supprise, the low end adjustment is nothing more than a airbleed type adjustment , so yes by turning the Screw CCW allows more air to enter the system.
Are you doing the HSN first to obtain Max RPM's then idle it for a few and see how the transition is, but mainly see if the engine gains RPM's or looses them, at a idle 2000 RPM's or less anything above that is a false reading. Also is the screw on the reg flush with the housing. As a rule that is a good place to start out at.
One more item before you go twisting the heads off of the needles, have you checked valve lash? I know you said you had changed the plug, but inmproper valve lash can and will give a undesirable running condition.
One thing I didn't ask before but will now when you pull off the glow starter and the engine dies, does it speed up and die or slow down and die.
Also check the one way check valve to make sure there is nothing in it and it's holding good tank pressure.
Old 05-16-2010, 11:40 AM
  #2110  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Thanks for the suggestions
I will go thru each one later

Yes the HS was set for maximum and then turned rich a 1/4 turn.transition and idle were nice only with glow driver installed. when I pull it, the engine runs the same revs up and idles fine,then just flames out without rrpm changes either during higher or lower rpm or idle.

Tank pressure seems low,not getting the usual hiss when I unplug the lines, just a little "pft".
I will pull the cowl and go thru all lines filters and check valve.

Is the a valve lash procedure on line somewhere? not sure if the small manual covers this or not.
Old 05-16-2010, 01:49 PM
  #2111  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I am sure it's covered 0n several sites aircraftprovinggrounds.com i'm sure has it as well as ysperformance.com.
But its not hard to do, the main thing is to have the correct feeler gage, which is .004 or 1 mm thick.Some like to adjust the intake a little bit different than the exhaust, but I myself don't, I set them both at .004 and be done with it. One thing most don't mention is to warm the engine up before you adjust the valves. I do this myself although it may not be a necessity, it make's me feel better doing it like that.
Ok I will run thru it for you real quick here and if it's as clear as mud please tell me and I will try to straighten things out.
There are two ways to adjust the valves one at a time or you can do both at the same time, remove the plug and put a tooth pick or small wood dowel in the hole and gently turn the engine over untill to fell the piston come to TDC, there is a timing mark that should line up when your there. At that position you can adjust both intake and exhaust valves at the same time, but care needs to be taken to insure that the engine is not turned away form the TDC mark. Also turn the engine over the same direction it runs in.
Break the jam nut loose before you start to do any adjustments, sometimes they can be real snug. While holding the gage under the rocker and valve stem use a allen wrench to snug it up just so it a slip fit with very little pull pressure on the gage,do this a few times to insure you have got the correct clearance required, most if not all of the time the clearance will change slighty when you tigthen down the jam nut.
The other way is to watch the valve your working on when it stops moving with just a slight turn the other valve will start to move that is whats called the valve overlap and is the correct place to adjust that valve . Repeat the same for the other valve cylce the engine thru a few times and recheck it to make sure it was indeed in the correct place, put a new gasket or reuse the old one if it's in good shape.(IMPORTANT REMEMBEER A YS ENGINE CAN'T LEAK AIR ANYWHERE EVEN AROUND THE VALVE COVER SO BE SURE THE OLD GASKET IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND ABLE TO CREATE A SEAL).
Button it back up and your good to go.
One other thing crossed my mind and that is the fuel, how old is it ,what kind and what nitro and ol content does it contain?
Where your saying it dosen't have the tank pressure it has leads me to think it maybe the regulator, checkvalve,tank or the lines.
All it takes is a very minute piece of dirt or gum in the reg to really create havock with these engines or a pin hole or and debris in any of the fuel deveverly system. If this don't get you there PM me for a number that I can be reached at if you so desire.
I don't think that there is much wrong with it ,just finding out what it is can sometimes be the tricky part.
Richard.
Old 05-16-2010, 03:08 PM
  #2112  
nitro wing
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Very helpful, thank you.
I will go thru everything methodically. Fuel is 1 year old now, cool power 30% heli synthetic.thats the first thing I wanted to swap out
Old 05-17-2010, 12:12 AM
  #2113  
nitro wing
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Here are the adjustments so far

checked all lines = good
removed and inspected regulator = good
removed and installed low end needle = good
ran engine = good with ignitor on, fuel dripping from carb
adjusted LS 2 full turns in = runs good/better
now runs on its own without ignitor.
idle is a bit rough 1890-2100 but reliable and revs up fairly smooth.
Not sure why the LS was so far out...was running in another plane and performing well.
Its running as it should,not sure exactly why, only some minor inspections were performed.
I would call it flyable with a reliable idle at this time.
Thank you for the suport and suggestions. I hope to fly it next week without further complications.

Further steps would be new fuel and a valve adjustment,and new fuel lines.
Thank you Cyberwolf
Old 05-17-2010, 08:27 AM
  #2114  
Cyberwolf
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Sounds good, but if you have very much fuel dripping from the carb close the reg up a small amount 1/8 turn at a time untill it stops while checking the engine over good for proper pick up and idle and WOT. The LSN has nothing to do with with the way the engine runs after around 2000 RPM's it's for idle purposes only. Above 2 K the injection system takes over and bypasses the idle circut.

When I set the LSN I let the engine run at a idle 2 k or below for around 30 secs or more and see what it does, if it speeds up its to lean and if it slows it to rich. Everything else is controled by the reg screw and the HSN.
A person can get into trouble adjusting the LSN if they forget it controls air not fuel so it works backwards to what were used to.
Sounds rather complacated but it's really not, on the older engines they didn't have the LSN and most ran to rich on the idle circut so a person had to open the air hole up to a larger dia by drilling them out. The LSN saves all of that hastle.

Happy flying
Richard.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:07 PM
  #2115  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Just double checking something here. would a split o ring on a pressure regulator screw cause the engine to surge at low rpm. just asking because the condition of the regulator housing is cutting new o rings as I try to put them in and I want to know if the o ring is the problem or if It is another problem I got while trying to unscrew a good oring that was cut by removing the screw. I have the parts to repair the o ring problem on order just checking for my piece of mind
Old 05-17-2010, 05:10 PM
  #2116  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

IF the oring allows for any air at all to enter the system, by all means yes it will effect the way the engine runs. In that case it may decrease the amount of pressure to the diaphram causing it not to operate at full capacity.
Myself I would do a little deburring to prevent that from happening again, and put a drop or two of fuel or castor oil on the oring to install it.
Old 05-18-2010, 12:34 PM
  #2117  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I can't deburr it because the regulator vibrating against the head caused the the regulater to break near the screw and the head of the screw was worn away from rubbing against the cylinder head
Old 09-15-2010, 04:06 PM
  #2118  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Hey guys
Back to my 140, had a few good flights, then one day not sucking fuel, no start.. I always start by hand, suddenly it locked Metal to metal by the feel of it, turn the other way and lock, rocked back and forth a bit and then it was free, but 0 compression.. spins freely now..

Took the head off, exhaust valve contacted piston slightly, left a small scrape, valve looks ok and seems to seat normally, but very little compression when i put it back together. everything is moving OK, I really want to fix this myself if possible, I dont want to send this in and have a big bill. Its a new motor with little time on it, its rather frustrating. could i just replace the exhaust valve or is it going to be more complicated than that?? it was bought NIB online, no warranty from YS I doubt...I like this motor and am looking forward to having it run again.

I can send it to Richard at YS if really needed
Old 09-19-2010, 08:40 PM
  #2119  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Sounds to me like the engine was over reved and floated a valve causing it to hit the head of the piston. With the head removed turn it upside down with the plug in it and pour some fuel in the cylinder and see if it leaks out around the valves if so remove the valve or valves and spin them in the good drill chuck to see if they are indeed bent, if so replace it, use some tooth paste and lap the new valve back to the seat, do this very lightly untill you can see a slight ring around the face of the valve, it shouldn't take very much, throughly clean, oil and reassemble set the lash and you should be good to go.
Old 09-20-2010, 01:15 PM
  #2120  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I actually had something similar happen to me. The problem was that the valve guides which are pressed in slid down towards the piston. I could push them back and the engine would run but they would slide down with the engine running and dinged the piston. I had to replace the cylinder head assembly and piston. If the valve guides are moving you have to replace the cylinder head with the guides already pressed in them since they do not sell the parts separate.
Old 09-20-2010, 10:36 PM
  #2121  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

Guys, luckily this did not happen during my last flight, it ran fine to landing.. it was a few weeks later that the motor was sluggish to start, then the contact to piston happened during handflipping.. that is why the damage is so minimal, I think.This lapping the valve may work, but another exhaust valve change should be easy, no? I'll definately try a home fix first. everything is moving properly, but little compression right now.

Not sure if it overevved it, swinging an APC 18x6W and it does not seem to run very high rpm at all. Last tach reading was under 9k. I will admit that the lash was above normal and the last flight was pushing all the power I could get for short bursts. I can get some pics of the inside, the piston has a 1/4 moon imprint, valve seemed unhurt, but obviously is not seating right. head seems OK. Love the motor sound and power.

Thanks for the input guys.

Old 09-20-2010, 10:43 PM
  #2122  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I have read other reports of valve guides failing, and valves slipping into the chamber.. Its my first YS and its new, I`ll spend the $ and time to fix it this time. If I have another failure its back to the less powerfull but reliable OS series 4 strokers.
Old 09-24-2010, 01:54 PM
  #2123  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

I have had a 110fz for a few years now, and have yet to get it tuned up just right. First was in a big Bearcat, and now in a Mayhem 3D. I was in the process of really taking my time to get it just right when the battery died and the whole thing lawn darted into the dirt. Doesn't look hurt at all, but I'm going to send it in and have it checked and get seals replaced. Then it will go into a NEW Mayhem.

Problem was I could never get the idle to be reliable. Always had tons of power, but every landing was a deadstick.

But I shall stay determined to have it run like it should!!
Old 09-24-2010, 07:19 PM
  #2124  
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Default RE: YS CLUB

delete,wrong thread...
Old 09-25-2010, 08:38 AM
  #2125  
Barry Cazier
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Default RE: YS CLUB


ORIGINAL: Desert Toad

I have had a 110fz for a few years now, and have yet to get it tuned up just right. First was in a big Bearcat, and now in a Mayhem 3D. I was in the process of really taking my time to get it just right when the battery died and the whole thing lawn darted into the dirt. Doesn't look hurt at all, but I'm going to send it in and have it checked and get seals replaced. Then it will go into a NEW Mayhem.

Problem was I could never get the idle to be reliable. Always had tons of power, but every landing was a deadstick.

But I shall stay determined to have it run like it should!!
After many months of the same deadstick problems, I finally found the answer for mine at least...open the regulator to about 2-1/2 turns and it will idle fine. Until I did that nothing would help. After I opened the regulator it became the most reliablel engines I own.
Thanks
BArry

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