STG

My Feedback: (26)

Here are mine:

Post 111 & 113 --Dual elevators
Post 176 -- Throttle Servo & Motor box covers
Post 175 -- VP20 & uniflow on SA100
Post 285 -- Clear motor mount for SA100
Post 280 -- Hatch & Wing bolts

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

STG, I see from your pics on post 280 that the wing nuts wouldn't be suited for this plane with those formers. Thats one tight area. Joe

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Nice info. Thanks Joe


It works out very nice...well as nice as I can see possible.

aerofundan

thanks for the answer!! i will test flight mine either tomorrow or sunday, i put it today on the balancer at 120 MM, and the plane was nose heavy with servos on the front, so i put both elevator servos on the tail and it balanced perfect!! the engine is a Thunder Tiger 70 Heli engine.... of course a video is going to be coming soon

BTW i replaced almost all the hardware it was really bad!

Daniel
www.aerofunrc.com

TailTwister

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks a ton for the help catching up. I like the wingnut deal for the wing mount. Maybe I'll do something similar, but not in the stock position. It would not be hard to slip a reinforcement in the wing panel, and put a stud in.

My question on the pull pull cable holes was the location. I don't want to end up with half inch diameter holes.[]

aerofundan

well... with my brother we tried to find the pull pull cables location but no luck, we just did the holes where we thought it would be best, and it worked fine

TailTwister

My Feedback: (1)

I figured they would be marked, but no luck. I'll just shoot a couple of holes in there, and if they get big, get some of the exit guides someone posted here.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

I used a straight edge on the outside of the plane to figure where to put the holes. If you hold the fuse up to a bright light you can figure out where the last former before the tail is by looking inside the plane and seeing the shadow of your finger. Put the hole in front of that former so you don't have to carve it away and in line with the straight edge lined up between the servo and the control horn.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I followed the instructions in this review for the pull pull

http://www.rcgroups.com/links/index.php?id=4696

TailTwister

My Feedback: (1)

That's what I was going to do, basically. The height is more critical than the distance fore and aft.

I think for a while, I'll just tape the hatch on. With the Saito inverted, I don't see a couple of flights producing enough goo, on top, to make it bad. I will be adding a bit of clear covering material to the motor box. Again, it looks intended for e-power. I'm no expert, but I'd guess that having a few stray electrons sneak into there would not be a big deal.

I found an HS-81 laying around, that I can use for throttle too. That should handle the job pretty well.

I also chickened out on the wing tube. I realize that there seems to be only a single incident with a failure, but Murphy's Law scares me sometimes. This tube is very thin. I bought a dowel, about the same outer diameter as the inner diameter of the CF tube. I think it's a 3/4 inch dowel. I cut it to span most of the length of the tube. I soaked the dowel in water for a few seconds, then slid it into the tube, adding Poly Glue, as it went in. I taped off each end, and put weight on it, to keep the foamy glue inside the tube. There was enough friction inside, that I'm fairly comfortable that the dowel stayed centered. Yes, it is heavy, but I'm 10,000% sure that no amount of Gs induced by a 6 pound plane will ever break this tube now. The skeleton of the fuselage, or even the wing, will let go way before this tube breaks. I tried to find a thicker tube, but to no avail. I promise not to add any more weight, OK???[]

STG

My Feedback: (26)

There always seems to be these single incidences with the carbon wing tubes.[&:]

How heavy is it?

TailTwister

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I promised myself I wouldn't weigh it. Kinda like a Wyllie-Coyote thing. If I don't look, I won't fall.

Yeah, I've heard about the single incident a few times now. I'm a chicken... It could be worse, I could have used 21mm conduit...

tIANci

My Extra had no problems with the wing tube, the other guy who broke his tube was when he pan caked his plane. As for the Y it works very well and I have never had any problems with it. The wing bolts are a little pain but it is easily resolved using a 12" - 18" long screw driver. Guess, going out to the field 15 mins earlier is not that bad.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I tried a 16 x5 zinger wood prop on the plane again today. Went from 14 x6ma scimitar to 16 x5zinger. What a big difference in the way the plane flys with the bigger prop! It goes from hard to hover and wanting to drop out to the left to almost easy to hover and no unbalanced tendencies. Everything was better with the big prop.--just another argument for the bigger motor(SA100) on this plane. It would have been nice to have a APC 15 x6 to try at the same time.

u8racing

My Feedback: (9)

Thats good to hear...... I bought a 16x4W APC today to try with the 100, I'm hoping it's not to much prop, I noticed the same thing as you with the smaller props.

tIANci

STG - the minimum I would do with the SA100 is the 16x4W, a 15x6 would be good too. I got one of my lipoly cells bloat on me, now I wonder if its wise to go EP, just plonk in a SA100 and no more worries.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

The 15x4W APC on my Saito 91 is great. The Zingers and MA are nowhere near as efficient

STG

My Feedback: (26)

No, but I have some wood Skorepa's to try that will give the APC a run for the money & weigh 1/2. I know the 16 x5 zinger in not efficient, but it sure pulls very well on the SA100/Fl330.

qweedqwag

My Feedback: (18)

I did what Basin Bum did, I installed the pull pull bar on the rudder, then I ran a straight edge from the pull pull bar to the last former in the tail which I marked by shining a bright flash light into the fuse, then I took a seamstress tape (you know the one that you use to get a suit measured) and wrapped it around the fuse to make sure the holes for the pull pull exit were the same on both sides, it worked out great. Also I joined the elevators with a torque rod viewable on post 623 and it worked out fine, much easier than the idiotic wood split thingy, I am going to use a single servo on the left side for the elevators, this plane build is definatly a challenge. I have also attached pics of the pull pull going thru the fuse and the travel of the elevators with the funtana style torque rod...hope this helps someone.

Later,

Mike

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Any of you guys having LG issues? I'm not convinced with the 2 piece design, but if most of you are doing ok with it, I'll stick with that. I've got my E-power plant ordered, and I'm nearing completion

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I pancaked mine in hard and bent out the gear. Had to remove it and bend it back. I think the gear works great on this bird--really like it.

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Qweedqwag, I crossed my Pull Pull cables--think it gives a straighter shot.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Well,I will no longer have claim to the heaviest FL330 with your modifications so I figured I would not try to compete. I am going with a battery to save 1.5oz (1200mah 3.5oz) and a 10oz fuel tank (from 12oz to save 2oz). So I will be minus 3.5oz RTF. [8D]

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

The only issues with the gear are the wheel pants and axles, not the two piece mains that work out fine.

I also crossed my cables on the rudder and attached one on the top of the servo arm and one on the bottom with ball links so they don't rub where they cross.

Good job STG, every ounce counts towards getting the max performance out of a plane like this.

RCMustang

I maidened mine yesterday. Got in two flights while at the field. Both were outstanding. Got mine powered with an AXI 4130/16 and 6S lipos. What a nice combo. This is my first large electric. It was a real treat. I had unlimited vertical and got 8 minutes and only used about 60% of the pack. This is one nice flier. Axial rolls, very nice high-alpha performance, great stall characteristics. Now I know why everyone is so happy with it. Now I just have to practice my aerobatic and 3D flying.

I agree with the technique everyone is discussing for getting the pull-pull system aligned. I used ruler and a laser level to get a straight line from the servo horn to the control horn on the rudder. It worked perfectly to get the line. My holes are longer than I would have wanted, but that was a bit harder to predict.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

What lipo did you get? What's the battery capacity and how much did you put back during charge?