LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Well, I think I know now why the tail was wagging.

This is becoming surreal. I believe the airplane hates me...

This happened five minutes into the first flight of the day. I was pulling an upline, and poof. Fortunately, my pal kept an eye on the piece and we recovered it.

But I had to land into a 15-knot quartering crosswind. That was interesting, to say the least...

airborneSGT

My Feedback: (15)

I fly mine with a Saito 180 and am around 12lbs or just over. Its a blast and 3d flight is awesome which is about all I do with it. The 180 needs 75% throttle to hover using an 18x8 CF prop (18x6 mezlik might help a little) and pullot needs about all its got. I run it on 30% Curtis Youngblood mix. I find there is a difference in that mix vs. regular 30% heli mix.

The 220 would be PERFECT for this plane. Going gas would make you heavier and take away from how well it flies. Save the gas engine for a 28% or 33% plane ect. All I seriously do with mine is harriers, rolling harriers, rolling harrier elevators, walls, knifes...3D is so much easier with a light weight plane. I can be on high rates which is 60deg. of throw using 5945's and 1.25" arms and just give full up elevator and not snap out. It will do walls very well or just go into a loop. The two other gas powered ones I have flown would not do this. Also doing very high alpha knife is very and happens just over quarter throttle. Yes it will knife edge loop. Waterfalls are a weakness of a lighter plane as you dont get as much inertia into it and the same can be said with blenders.

If the 180 hauls it around like a scalded dog I am sure the 220 would be very fun. Just my opinion. I certainly hope the heli fuel dont bother you as I was going through two gallons on a full day of flying.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Steve, jeeze what can I say other than maybe it really does hate you.

If it was me I think I'd fix it and sell it. My rudder I noticed is also very flexy... I spend most of my time inverted, and love doing outside maneuvers.... this is not good since you said this is where you noticed the wagging the most, although maybe your rudder was cracked before today.

I'm really thinking I might go with something else. It's a shame it flies so beautifully but I'm worried it's only a matter of time with this plane and this engine.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Normally, I would have dumped this thing a LONG time ago. But I've got so much time and effort invested in it now, not to mention a very expensive engine/accessories that won't go on anything else I own... well, that expensive engine and electronics package (including a top-end Futaba receiver and servos) is what kept me from doing a kamikaze routine yesterday when the counterbalance flew off. I was sorely tempted to smash it, anyway...[&o]

I bought a roll of that Pearl Blue U-Cote when I bought the plane. Heck, that cost eighteen bucks, considerably more than regular U-Cote. So I really have no excuse for NOT fixing it. And as previously noted, I can't go with a bigger, better plane right now due to transportation issues. So I suppose I'll keep trying to fly the damn thing, until it kills itself.

As someone noted earlier, this is fast becoming one of those models that I wish would just crash, and put both of us out of our misery. Only my parsimonious Scottish heritage has prevented me from helping that process along...

Tor

And because of you desire for it to crash, it will be one of those models that will last forever. Better learn to live with it

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

You got that right.

I keep telling myself, "If ONE more thing goes wrong, that's it!"

Bobby Folsom

Steve, you are "snake bit" on that airplane. My advice is to cut your losses, remove the engine and gear and sell the plane. Buy yourself a WildHare Extra 300 Special OR an Aeroworks 28% QB Extra 260 - they will be arriving soon. You really can't go wrong with either of them. Dump the "snake bite er" and move on to a decent plane. You are going to waste the whole summer if you're not careful!!


Bobby

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

You forget, Bobby; I've got space problems. If I owned a larger vehicle, I'd have had a 30% plane LONG ago. We actually measured Tobe's 28% Extra Sunday, to see if it would fit in my truck. Nope; too long.

As for wasting the summer... nah. Doesn't look like I'll get much IMAC flying/practice in, for sure; but I've got plenty else to fly.

MalaysianFlyer

HI guys, would appreciate a little input from those who have the DA50 on this bird, did you mount the throttle servo in its stock location or moved it back to avoid inteference issues. I am thinking of mounting the throttle servo in teh opening cut for the rudder servo [pull-pull setup location, not the tail ]. Or should I just leave it stock?

Thanks

Tor

MalaysianFlyer,
I'd be more worried about such a long control rod making interference, if you put it in the rudder servo tray. Also you need that for the rudder. It won't balance unless you make pull-pull on the rudder, no matter what the manual says.

This is my setup with an Evolution/MVVS 45:

MalaysianFlyer

Tor thanks, nice installation. I changed my mind about using the MVVS as I didn't want to butcher the motor box. I'll have to check the balance before I finalise then.

Thanks again

Bobby Folsom

Steve, back when I was "financially challenged" than I am now, I had a small Toyota pickup. I built a plywood box with a folding top with which to carry my airplanes. The box was easily removalbe and weather proof and easily held two .40-size planes and all the associated gear that a "slime -er" has to have. I usually took my stuff out of the box and stored it inside but I didn't have to - I could have left the box and its contents in the garage.

BTW, what size/type of truck do you have?

Bobby

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

S-10 with a fiberglass bed cap. I'm limited to 70" overall length and 19" overall height. This truck is old and long paid for; but I'm waiting until I retire to replace it, so I can get a really nice ride with the excess annual leave/K time money I've got coming.

Trust me; I've examined this from every angle. Tobe suggested leaving the tail gate down (which would allow a WH 28% Extra), but I simply do not want to do that. The whole idea of paying almost a grand for that bed cap was to protect the models during transit from road grime, etc.

I'm chilling; I have the Extra in the "work cradle" on the bench, and might even begin the repair tonight.

I'm through stressing out over this. If the thing never flies again, oh well... I THINK we've got the engine sorted to where it is usable. Tobe believes that all it needs is to be run more; it only has two+ gallons through it so far.

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

Steve,

Slap that rudder back together, use the graphite rod on TE like I suggested and go fly with no worries about the rudder.

Frank Baity
AMA 38026

H9 Extra 260 w/YS 160DZ.Goldberg Sukhoi w/YS140FZ,Sig CAP 231 w/YS120FZ, Bergen Turbine, JR 10X

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Frank,

Any suggestions regarding a substitute for the c/f tube? That's unavailable around here, and I can't see making a Central Hobbies order for that alone. I've got some c/f pushrod material, but its TSK tail rotor stuff; i.e., solid.

The repair itself won't be too involved; its just getting motivated to do it...

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

Steve,

My local HS carries these small carbon or graphite tubes for the foamy guys to use as braces and push rods. Have you tried you LHS?

Frank

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Yup. What he has is park-flyer stuff which is too small to fit over the TE. There is ONE guy in there to speak with about special-ordering something; if you know what I mean. Perhaps he'll be there next time I drop in.

Started the repair last night. The damage is far more extensive that at first appeared.

Oh, well...[&o]

shag555

Steve C - I flipped mine today while landing - Floated it in, but the field is so wet, that the wheels sunk into the tarmak, then the wheel pants dug into the field. MY COUNTERBALANCE broke off (suprise). I cut the covering and I can't believe just how weakly built this rudder is! Lightweight is great, but, this is overkill! The trailing edge is built from (one side) 1/16 inch stock, (other side) 1/32 inch stock. I didn't have a wag problem, but I can see how you did. It's a wonder in a knife edge this thing doesn't just snap off.

The plan for me is to cut the covering off the rest of the rudder and install solid stock in-place of this sheeting.

MPB

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I wasn't able to find the proper size aileron stock; which would be the quickest & easiest way to go. I made up a piece like the original construction; two pieces of 1/16th sheet edge-glued, but I added an LE stiffener piece. Now, to figure out how to splice that piece in there, using what's left of the cross brace, without having to completely re-do everything.

You're right, this thing (the rudder, at least) is rather cheaply built. But I'm far past the point of giving a crap about this airplane; if it stays together, fine. If it doesn't, even better- that means I won't have to mess with it anymore...

To tell you the truth, after reading about how just about every one of these genre of ARFs is having one sort of problem or another, I'm seriously debating on whether or not to even get another, larger one, like I have planned to do. In the quest for light weight (demanded by the flip-flop crowd), I believe the vendors are simply having them built to the point of flimsiness. And these gas motors beat the hell out of them, too.

Ah, whatever. I'm just going to sit back and watch for now. I'll eventually get this rudder repaired, and try it yet again.

Good luck on your repair.

.

CollectivelySpaced

My Feedback: (18)

I'm just curious if anyone else had noticed that there is a fair amount of up thrust built into the engine box? At least mine has, has anyone else noticed this?

shag555

Actually - After cutting more covering off the rudder, I took the same stance. I stuffed a 1/16 inch CF rod down through the "ribs" of the rudder. My "breaks" were at the top LE and about mid-point between 2nd and 3rd rib of the rudder at TE. No other breaks / cracks that I could see. I've got it buttoned up.

I'm with you on this one... I want to jump to 33%, but it's going to be a Hostetler Plan, not an ARF. I've gotten the Hostetler Extra 300XS construction at about 50% complete... Think I'll put a little more time into it for a more "robust" airplane.

MPB

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Ah so. No, I didn't notice that. But the one time I flew it with the cowl off, I had to dial in every bit of elevator trim I had to keep it level. That must be why...

I'm with you, Shag. I had already decided to go no larger than 30%, for several reasons. But I know of no kits in that size, and I'm simply not up to scratching one out. I know Wendell and Ray; Wendell designs beautiful models.

Did you have a "kit" cut, or are you doing it all?

shag555

Nope... I went with "Plans Only" and I'm not sorry I did it. It's all sheeting & sticks anyway. I started a thread on this one... If you want a look, do a search on Hostetler Extra 300XS. I haven't posted in about 3 months, but I'll start picking up the pace, as my basement is at ~60 - 65 degrees VS 80 - 90 outside.

By the way - this plane is a one piece wing... BUT - he makes it in 33% scale, which can be reduced to get a two piece wing in 30 or 28%.

MPB

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks; I'll check it out.

ddierking

My Feedback: (82)

Guys, this is my first gasser. I have a BME50 on my 260. I finally started it up for the first time, but there seems to be excessive vibration. Is this normal? I did not have the wings installed, but the wing tube was in. The vibration caused the tube to move. The vibration also caused the screws in both elevator horns to come out. I custom made aluminum blocks attached to the H9 engine mount. I also have a brand new 22x8 NX prop on the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan