LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

So did I, when I had the OS 1.60 on it; and this was with the rudder servo amidships under the canopy.

When I put the BME 50 in it, I had to move both battery packs behind the wing tube to balance. IOW, I expect you'll still need as much weight forward as you can get, even with the rudder servo amidships.

Now, with the new rudder, I moved the rudder servo back to the rear, and fully expect to have to re-locate the batteries forward of the wing tube. I'm waiting on my machinist pal to re-do my metal steering tiller (gave him the wrong dimension ); hope to have this thing ready for the week-end.

Hope you're right, Frank... my "pain" quota is about maxxed out.

shag555

Well I went and did it... Ordered a new one today. It'll be here next week. The new 9303 also. Wish me luck.


MPB

JAkridge

Excellent choice Shag.
I've been flying mine now for months with a Saito 180 and Love it, do I wish I had more power...........yes, sometimes.., 220 power, no more needed. I'm one of the guys that stuck his battery out on a stick...of sorts. I cut the old landing gear up and used a pieace of it as a boom. Works great, I'm 12 and a hair lbs.

Good luck with the new 260, and you'll love the 9303.

shag555

I think I'll be able to keep the battery inside if I move the elevator servos to the canopy. I'm not sure if I want to keep two servos, or go with one large one and run a y-split on the linkage. I'm thinking of building something that will utilize a carbon arrow shaft, then split them to the elevators. I'll miss the titanium turnbuckles from H-9 though. But hey, if it keeps the balance nice (no batteries on sticks), then that's fine with me.

Then and again, a carbon push rod system with independant servos (the ones I already have) back to the elevators would be fine and dandy also.

MPB

shag555

Does anyone know if there's an aftermarket "tuned-pipe" for this Saito 220 yet???

JAkridge

Thats one thing I hate about Saitos, the damm muffler coming loose.

shag555

Mine won't have that problem in another week. I don't care if I've got to make something. I've already bought another header pipe for cutting and/or clamping silicon to, to adapt something else. I'm going to give Macs a call and see what they can do for me in the line of a pipe. I have a brand new Macs 15cc tuned pipe, but that might be too small for this engine. It'd be nice to be able to stick a tuned pipe up through that airframe though and not have to worry about tearing the cowling off to tighten that lousy muffler after every outing.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Well, just finished buttoning her up.

Horizon sent me a new rudder; great customer service. Unfortunately, it was warped. I did the heat gun/twist thing, and thought I had it straightend out. Of course, this was AFTER I had to plug and re-drill the upper hinge point hole, which was drilled off-center.

I installed it last night. When I got home from work today, I found that the warp was back and my re-centering job didn't take. The counter balance is offset by an eighth inch. I guess the expanding polyurethane glue displaced my balsa plug. No telling what interesting yaw problems THAT will produce... Maybe the warp will straighten out when I get that c/f stiffner installed. Still trying to figure out how to slot that piece without buggering it up; already buggered one with the Dremel... but the offset is there to stay.[]

Whatever. I just cannot seem to get a break with this airplane. But I'm going to fly it anyway, if for no other reason to get some more time on the engine. Good thing I'm past the caring stage...

shag, the "big" sub-C cell rx battery had to go between the wing tube and the #1 former for balance; basically, on top of the throttle servo tray.

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

Steve,

Use masking tape as a guide to cut the slot in the CF tube. Use two pieces of tape streached from end to end with a gap between the two strips about as wide as the rudder trailing edge, Using the Dremel and a carbide cutting wheel carefuly cut along the lines formed by the tape.

Frank

dale691

Hi all I am just in the process for buying another after selling he first one before i flew it. I decided the zdz 50 was too big for what i wanted, a little stupid i will admit. My new one will have a super tiger 3250. Does anybody have this setup? and what muffler is everybody using on the ST 3250?

Cheers

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Frank,

Yeah, I figured that out. My problem is securing the piece so it doesn't move. I tried spot-gluing it to a board, but the glue didn't hold. In a vise, the ends flex too much.

How did you hold it?

airborneSGT

My Feedback: (15)

9303 is an awesome radio. Yeah the 260 is awesome with the 180 would be perfect with the 220. Keep it really simple and you will be good.

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

Steve,

I held one end in my hand and rested the other end on the bench.

Frank

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

You have a steadier hand than me...

I've just braced it up on a sheet of glass, secured at both ends and with balsa supporting sticks CA'ed place to keep the piece straight. A poor man's jig...

I've been told that some guys are using brass or aluminum angle stock (L-shaped) glued to the rudder TE on both sides, to eliminate the wagging. This supposedly is an "old Indian trick" used by pattern flyers for years.

Know anything about that?

Bobby Folsom

Hey Steve, yeah, I had a Kaos that the "old" pattern guys said that they glued 1/4" balsa sheets onto both sides of the rudder and fin (thus making the assembly fatter) to stop the waggle and hunting even on straight and level flight.

Bobby

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

Steve,

Don't know anything about that.

Frank

wttiger42

If possible, could one of you experienced gas guys check out my thread on my ignition trouble. This motor is in my Extra260 and its all i lack left to having the thing flying this weekend.

thanks
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4425636/anchors_4425636/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#4425636]ignition trouble[/link]

Bobby Folsom

The wone with what looks like a LED probably tell you that the ignition is hot. Does one of the other two wires plug into the pickup line on the front of the prop drive - that is where the Hall Effect magnet is located?

My DA 50 has the pickup wire going to the "box" on one end along with the battery wire (or one side of the switch) and the spark plug wire goes out the other.

Good luck,

Bobby

shag555

I've been working little by little and got all the bits and pieces put back together of the fuse. I cut what was left apart (along all the seams) then glued them all together. That's the nice thing about white glue, you can gut a plane in no time! Unfortunately, I had lots of CA on the joints in and around the radio compartment, etc, so it made for a lot of work there.

I'm in the process of scanning all these fuse pieces in and scaling & drafting the pieces in Autocad for a clone. My new Extra is supposed to be in by Wednesday, so that'll help also. This engine box is supposed to be 2 deg down / right thrust, that's the critical part of laying this all out. The big pieces that run the length of the fuse are pretty interesting... The formers and these long pieces, since they all fit together with tabs & cut-outs, even these broken up pieces go together fairly well with a couple of rubber bands & nail clamps. I should be able to get all these little pieces finished up this week.

What's even more interesting, I couldn't figure out how I was going to lay this thing up straight... I answered my own question by drafting / plotting out my pieces, I'll also plot a plan.

I'm half tempted to cut apart the remaining tail section and do the same for an entire plan of the fuse. I think I can get away with taking pictures of the remaining tail and drafting it to match up to the parts I already have scanned.

I'll also post a picture of a 3/8" piece of plywood that's mounted in the tail section (i'm not kidding). This was meant for the tail wheel, however, maybe H-9 could have utilized a somewhat lighter piece of wood back there, and put a little more into the front gear mount. This big piece may be for harrier landings??? Who knows.

I looked on line for pricing the cowl... $20!!! I'll need a new wing tube too, $10.

ddierking

My Feedback: (82)

Well guys and gals, I finally maidened my 260 on Saturday. It was the opening day of my clubs new flying field. I was also the luckly one and got the first flight it. It was pretty uneventful. No mishappens and brought her home in one piece so it was a good day.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryitemSolo.cfm?itemid=57734]My H9 extra 260[/link]

shag555

Good on ya mate!!!

Spoiler

Here are some pics of my completed beast with a shot of a few mods I made to the structure. Engine is a Moki 210, radio JR)PCM9X2 (9303) with R10DS synthesized Rx and a mixture of Hitec servos (635's on elevators and 645s on ailerons and rudder) Balance appears perfect with a 1650 mah NimH pack. C/F cross bracing inserted on local modellers advice due to flexing of fuz below hatch (hatch not a stressed component as Funtana 90 hatch is) I have also inserted a thinner peice of c/f rod in the top of the rudder down as far as the furst hinge block. We'll see if that prevents rudder loss. I also added a stiffener across the rudder servo tray as this is also very flexible in stock form.

Whoops, pics won't upload...Will try again later.

A few more tips/mods. On my kit, the wing tube fit in the fuz and wings was very loose, as were the wing locating tubes in the fuz holes. I smeared a layer of thin CA inside all the FG tubes and let it set. This works very well to make the fit nice and tight. I did the same on the stab mounting tube and cured the play there as well. On the locating tubes, I wrapped them in nylon tape stuck with thin CA. This was also a perfect fix and removes the play completely. This fix is visible in the pic.

shag555

When my rudder counterbalance came off, I drilled and inserted a hardwood dowel in there, and also put a thin CF rod down the trailing edge. It stiffened it right up - much better at the leading edge of the rudder.

shag555

Dick Hanson - I noticed you prefer a Y linkage and ONE servo for elevators. Have you set this plane up in this fashion and installed the servo in under the hatch? How much torque would be necessary??? I think you posted this many, many pages ago???

MPB

shag555

Found it... Page 74.. JR 9411 or lesser.

MPB